Beer Feeds

I thought I had read otherwise, but a beer server told e that tonight.

Just finished cleaning my cornie kegs.Whats your thought about
storing them with a shot of co2?

I just wanted to post to say Hi. It has been several years since my last post and I am looking forward to interacting with all of the knowledge her that is to be had.

Waitito

That dude seemed to really know his stuff. Ale, if you're there, give a shout. I've got some questions about making your own beer.

I had some on draft last night and found it excellent. Has anyone else tried it?
A clone recipie would be great!

Upgrading to a 10 gal brew from 5 gal. When pitching yeast, do I need twice as much or two packets or will one still do? Any help?

Long story short, I gave up brewing a few years ago when I moved onto a sailboat. Fast-forward to today and I just signed my first lease on terra firma (hey, thats a good name for my first batch!) in 3 years. I'm looking to get back into brewing with my new fiance (all sorts of changes going on this year and we're only on day 13!) and am curious...whats the best deal on a starter kit these days? I'm thinking I'll ease back in with extract, and keep it stove-top for now with partial boils, but I'm not opposed to jumping back in with both feet with all grain. Any new advances in a compact, stove-top, all grain system?

Thanks Brewboard, great to be back!

I just got my first refractometer and I found this site that claims to calculate abv from a hydrometer and refractometer.
http://www.brewheads.com/refract-getabw.php

I understand there are some accuracy issues with refractometers, so how does that effect the accuracy of the calculation? also, any input you have on use or care is appreciated.

thanks

I have about 13 pounds of crushed grain that I bought over eight months ago, but never had a chance to use it. The big question is the grain still good to brew with or should I just toss it out. I did look at the grain and if did look good and no bugs in it.

Thanks

hello. ive been reading an older thread on here about troegs mad elf, and well, i decided to try it. got the grains, and the malts and yeast. now, i have two questions. first, in the directions they talk about mashing. could i get away with putting the grain in a sack and steeping it, then holding it up so that the bottom of the sack touches the water and sparging it with a big cup? also, at what temp should i ferment it at? thanks for any help i can get. im very new to this and want to make a decent product. this has been a year comming with getting the equipment together and research.

I'm making my first lager, (bitburger clone, 55 degree primary) and I expected the primary ferment to go slow, but not this slow. The recipe said to expect a drop from 1.050 to 1.010 over 10-12 days, but it's been 2 weeks and it's only dropped to 1.024.
One theory I have is that there's not enough O2 in the wort. (on brew day, I pulled out my oxygenator only to find an empty oxygen tank, so I just agitated the wort aggressively) could I go back now and ADD O2 at this point to try to get things going, or do lagers just usually take this long?

Unrelated question: when you do a diacetyl rest between primary and secondary, do you do the rest and then rack it to secondary, or do you rack it over first and THEN rest it?

Thanks in advance!

Cut a hole in the lid for a stopper and airlock, using a vinyl tube cut lengthwise in half as a gasket and using several small clamps to keep a tight seal. Going to try it out next weekend, I know 8 gal. is overkill for 5 gal. batches but that is what I have. Just wondering if anyone has experience with something similar, i dont see anything wrong with doing this but maybe you have some ideas.

At least I'm consistent. For the past five or so all grain batches I've been calculating my mash efficiency in the fifties. My last two were the best at 59%. I hear others obtaining. 80%. So I'm I calculating or measuring wrong? Or is my technique wrong? Example from yesterdays brew: Mashed 11.5lb grain in 32 quart cooler/mash tun with 4 gallon of strike water at 164°F, resting at 153°F for 60 min, stirring every 15 minutes with only a drop of 4 degrees by the end of the mash. First running collected approx 3 gallons with SG 1.071 and pH 5.0. Sparked with 4.5 gallons water at 168°F stirred and rested for fifteen minutes. Drained and collected 6.5 gallons of wort total with SG 1.040. I believe the correct calculation is: Total wort collected X OG / total grain bill. In my case 59%.

Can someone help me with this...feel like I'm missing something.

What is the reason for splitting a LME addition and saving one tofor add at flameout? I think I readget about it before on a posting or Palmer's book, but wasn't able to answer the question.

My beers recently have been turning out fairly well, but the last two have an acrid harshness at the finish.
Maybe they are both too young and the hops haven't blended in yet, but could it be something that I'm doing
wrong in my process. I used EKG in an English Bitter, and I think? Cascade in a seasonal pumpkin beer.
Any thoughts? Thanks.

The next brew on tap, an oatmeal stout, calls for British ale yeast.

My house strain (thanks to washing) is Wyeast Pacman.

Will there be a significant difference if I ferment with Pacman vs. a British ale yeast?

So I researched this a while ago but I lost the information I had. I have a 5500 watts heating element and I want to make a heat stick out of it. I want to hook it up to just 120 so my uderstanding is that I just hook up the hot leg to one lug and the return to the other lug and the ground to the case. What kind of power to I get out of this though? What can I expect as far as getting a 10 gallon batc to a boil? I understand I*E=watts but I don't know what the amps are in this equation. I guess it must be <20 or I'll trip my breaker. so it must be <2400.
Thanks for the help

Considering a 27 gallon "Fermentator" setup. Instead of kegging from the Fermentator, is there some sort of serving/bright beer tank out there that you could transfer to and serve from? Carbonation? CO2 tank?

So what is the use of this specific product.
http://morebeer.com/view_product/20581//Pe..._-_Flow_Control

I know little about commercial draft systems, and this is new to me. What purpose would this serve?

Bought a new laptop sat. and down loaded the 21 day trial of beer smith. Sunday I punched in several of my favorite recipes. Sunday night I went to plug in a few more and it wouldn't let me in. It said that my 21 day trial was now 30 days old and I would have to buy a key. I planned on buying anyway so I did. Anyone else have this trouble

http://rebelmalting.com/About.php

I stumbled across this web site and thought I would share it with you. Shipping is a bit steep but I was quoted .75/# on emmer wheat.

I live about 80 miles north of tampa florida near crystal river. I can not seem to locate someone to fill a 10 pound CO2 cylinder that i just purchased.

I have contacted a few AIRGAS dealers and they exchange 5 pound and 20 pound cylinders but for some reason not 10 pounders.

i really need help on this one.


scotty

OK, this is a long shot but I'm call out to all my fellow homebrewers who rebuild their equipment. I have 3 Corney regulators that need the rubber in the back poppet valve replaced (item #183063000). It is .25" in dia and .060" thick. This is a 5 cent piece of rubber and I don't want to spent $20 for a rebuild kit for just this. If I can find the proper thickness I can punch out the diamter. Has anyone out there sourced this thickness of rubber already for the same reason. Or do you know of a source to get it?? I've look at all of the usual places like McMaster and Grainger with no luck. Plese help me be cheap.

Bought a bottle of this limited edition baltic porter last night. Shorts, Dogfish Head and Three Floyds. Not sure if I will open it or just stash it away in the wine celler

I was planning on brewing a dunkelweizen (dark wheat) beer from Jamil's 'Brewing Classic Styles' book. The reciep calls for Hefeweizen yeast from White Labs. Jamil says you need to ferment at 62 degrees in order to have a award winning brew. Does anyone have any suggestion on how to get the temp to 62 degrees? My parents have a garage in NJ that I guess I can ferment in, but not sure. I'd like to have those bavarian notes of banana, clove, 'Juicy Fruit bubblegum', and nutmeg flavors. Can anyone provide me with some advice?

Hey guys,

I have been brewing for about 3-4 years now. I've gotten to the point where I'm writing my own recipes, starting a basic yeast lab, building different homebrew equipment (counterflow chiller amongst other things), kegging and inspiring friends to begin brewing themselves.

My next step is to begin all grain brewing.

My problem is that I have a job that isn't your typical 9-5. I have not been able to attend any of the local homebrew club meetings due to my work schedule. I am hoping to find someone who might be able to take me under their wing and let me come sit in and watch a batch or two of all grain brewing. After the first of the year, my next task will be to begin to assemble all the equipment needed, and I just want to have a clean understanding of what I'm doing by the time I'm ready to begin.

Let me know if there is anyone who can help. I'm in University area (UNCC), but definitely willing to drive a little bit to watch someone who knows and can share the process.

Thanks,

Acemedic

I have a batch of dry stout almost done carbonating in my kegorator and when i went to taste it there was some Diacetyl smell and a hint of flavor, anyone see a problem with just taking the keg out and letting it warm up and sit in the mid to high 60s for a couple days? is this the solution?

Quick and easy question for an all-grain brewer:
If I were to mash and lauter tonight...could I just put a lid on it and do the boil tomorrow or the next day? I feel like any organisms would be killed during the boil, so unless the taste would somehow be adversely affected...no problem, right?
I just don't have enough time to do the whole job in one uninterrupted stretch.
Thanks guys!

Picked up a bomber of this at the Rogue Green Dragon for my birthday tonite. Maple flavored brown ale with smoked malts. It does smell and taste like bacon and maple, but I can't really decide if it is wrong or not.

Yeah....I think its wrong.


Incarcerator

Hey Guys,

I've searched and can't seem to find a recipe for the Lagunitas Sucks holiday beer (Brown Shugga substitute). From the description on the Lagunitas website:

This [beer] is a ‘Cereal Medley’ of Barley, Rye, Wheat, and Oats…. Full of complexishness from the 4 grains, and weighing in at 7.6% abv, Then joyously dry-hopped for that big aroma and resinous hop flavor.

So I've got a hint on the grain bill - but my pallet isn't trained enough to take a real educated guess at a hop bill. Any help/brainstorming would be much appreciated.

Thanks!!