Beer Feeds

Posted: by TimDudley (18 hours ago)

So I am making a simple saison with all Pilsner and WLP 565 a la Saison Du Pont.

I would like to really do some higher temps for this one. I have heating pads, etc. Where should I start temp-wise and how should I raise temps?

I was thinking roughly start at 68F and step up 2-3 degrees a day until I hit 82F and then let is sit there for another few days.

What do you think?

Also for secondary what temp would you do? Basement at this time of year is naturally 62F. Too low?

Thanks all.

So now that my A$$ of a Boss gave me the day off but said yesterday that he needed me to come in or I would be fired. I was wondering if anyone else was going to drink anything good I was going to try and finish up a 12 pack of my Gin Ale that I made but now I have to work.



WHO'S DRINKING WHAT?

Hey, just had this crazy idea of brewing quite regular light ale and add some beet juice to last 5min of boil to get a strong red color. ...................... or not?
Had anyone tried this? I'm going to blend the raw beets with few cups of water, strain and use the juice.
I'm brewing this as I type this post
Hopefuly I don't get much of a vegetable flavor, just color.

4lb 2Row
3lb Pilsen
1lb Viena
1lb carapils
1lb Aromatic

Planned IBU=17
Color(without the beet juice) = 7
OG=1.048/FG=1.012/ABV=4.7%
Mash at 155F.
5gal batch

I'm trying to use gelatin to clarify a pale ale coming from secondary. I ran a search and came up with good results. I chilled my beer to about 40 degrees in the secondary, then racked to serving keg added the gelatin per instructions, and agitated keg to mix the gelatin completly.

My keg is under pressure to keep the seals tight and air free, but I will need to agitate the keg again to bring to mix the co2 and bring to proper serving carbonation. This will disturb the gelatin that fell and brought haze out of suspension. I have heard the gelatin takes a long time to settle out once reagitated.

Should I agitate and bring the beer to proper carbonation before the gelatin settles out?

Since I live in central MD and just got 2 ft of snow, I decided yesterday to be prepared. I picked up ingredients for a clone of Big Sky Slow Elk Oatmeal Stout. Anyone else brewing today?
~Phillip

What do you guys recomend for a beergas setup (hose setup). I will have under a 5 foot beer line to a stout faucet. Do I need a high pressure gas line or is the red gas line the correct kind?

Ok, I have finally gotten back to brewing hefeweizens after getting burned out on them and doing all barley malt grain bills. I brewed a hefe today and I got horrible efficiency - 65% - for my system. The recent all barley recipes I have been getting 75% and higher. I looked back at my records and most of my hefeweizens are in the mid to high 60s.

My typical grain bill is:
50% wheat
25% 2 row
25% munich

Mash temp is typically 152F +/- 5 for 60 min. Final runnings are at 1.012 or so.

Crush is about the same. All of the wheat berries are broken. I did not change the gap on my mill (and double checked it). I use 5.2 pH stabilizer in my water.

What gives? Any ideas?

I'm looking at an IPA recipe that calls for a 1/2 lb of brown sugar boiled and dumped into the primary (a day or two into the start of fermentation). Has anyone ever tried this? I'm wondering if other than the ABV boost, will there be a strong taste shift?

Moved my Pale Ale and Red from their secondaries into their kegs, pouring off a little to measure FG and taste. When smelling and tasting both had a very slight rubber smell and taste to them. Never had a batch with that before and was wondering if anyone had experienced this. I added some isinglass to the brew when kegging to help drop out any remaining stuff.

I'm pretty tough on my sanitation, so I don't think it's that. The only thing I did different with these batches is I used 2 vials of yeast. Thanks for any thoughts or guidance!

*The Pale Ale was a P-51 recipe and the Red was Jamil's

I'm brewing up a Barleywine this weekend, and when I did it last year, my efficiency really sucked. I'm not sure what happened, but I thought I'd just see if anyone out there had any special hints or ideas about the differences between your standard 1.060 brew and your 1.100+ monsters. I've checked out the FAQ on big beers and will definitely take the advice about a longer sacc rest into account.

Here's my recipe, just for reference:

23lb Canadian 2-row pale malt
1lb Weyermann wheat
1lb C10
1lb C80
4oz Special B
4oz Pale Chocolate

(Yes, basically JZ's BW)

I'm going to mash at 1.25q/lb and 149 for 120 minutes. I may end up doing something like 1q/lb at 146 and then step it up to 149-150 after 60m. MT is 100q so I'm more worried about heat loss than I am about running out of room.

I'm going to start using a pony keg as a fermenter and I'm wondering if I'll get accurate temps by putting a temp probe on the outside of the keg the way I have been doing with a glass carboy.

If I were to use a thermowell, how far down in the fermenter should the temp probe be? Should I try to place it so it is in the half way point of the liquid inside the keg for the best reading?

Thanks.

i am looking for a clone recipe for red cap ale . it was brewed in the 50s &60s buy carling that also brewed black label and stag at one time.currently brewed by brick brewing some where up north and is avail. at the beer store in ohio. i am a home brewer and grew up in st.louis blocks from ab-inbev, my dad is adedicated bud man all his life . he tells me red cap was the only other beer he ever liked so as a hbrewer im always trying to convert him. if anyone can give me any ideas it would be appreciated. thanks

Posted: by LycraCladChamp (13 hours ago)

here is the basic Dreher recipe as according to Fix and Fix.

pale malt, (two row pilsner quality) 7.5#
light german crystal malt 6 oz
dark german crystal malt 6 oz
english 120 6 oz


what would a modern and more accurate recipe be?

Posted: by HopNuggets (19 hours ago)

Posted: by beertunes (21 hours ago)

So I'm thinking about getting a Tap-A-Draft, but I know I don't want to put all of a batch into the TAD. I understand that you prime each 6L TAD bottle separately, but want to make sure I don't over/under carbonate the remaining beer I will bottle in 12 or 22 oz bottles.

If I only used one TAD bottle on a 5 gallon batch I would need a 1/2 cup of priming sugar dissolved in about .65 cup of water for the 3.2 gallons left to go in glass bottles?

If I used two TAD bottles on a 5 gallon batch I would need just over 1/4 cup of priming sugar dissolved in just about .35 cups of water for the 1.8 gallons left to go in glass bottles?

I'm hesitant to using priming tablets since I've heard they provide uneven carbing.

Any help would be appreciated. Math is not my strong point.

Posted: by moneytastesbad (4 hours ago)

Posted: by TheDoorman (13 hours ago)

i am attempting to make an rye ipa based on a recipie from denny conn. i was wondering if i can substitute cascade 7.2 AA for mt. hood 5 AA? everything else in the recipie will stay the same. (2 row, rye malt, crystal 60, cara-pils, flaked wheat, columbus, us-05)

Posted: by hopson (56 minutes ago)

Specs and Info on the Plastic Merchandiser I use for my mash tun. I do 6 or 12 gallon batches and it works great for both. In case any of ya missed the prior post - I am the Director of Marketing for a Plastic Company and we roto-mold these merchandisers. I've asked if we would be willing to offer these to the homebrew market since I've been so happy with the results and would highly recommend them to anyone.

Size: 21-1/4"Diameter x 34"H
Inside Diamter: 19-1/4" with a 12" and 14" small step.
70 quart capacity.
Merchandiser is molded with food grade plastic.
Highest quality polyurethane insulation (we must keep the big beverage companies happy - no condensation or leaking).
The molded in drain works flawless with any weldless spigot and bazooka screen (which is what I use).
I have a false bottom that I've used but prefer the bazooka screen.
Price: $49.00 directly to the company. I'm not lookin at getn anything out of it except just feeling good about helping other homebrewers like myself. IRP is a very successful company and we back our products 100% - ok, i'm done selling

Pictures
http://gallery.me.com/irpimages#100396&...k&view=grid

HOPEFULLY THE IMAGES WORK THIS TIME! lol

can respond here or email me at shelton@irpinc.com with any interest, comments or questions.

Posted: by moneyclip (10 hours ago)

I responded to someone's question earlier and got me thinking. Let me know what everyone thinks.

This is what I use for my 12 gallon batches. Would work perfect for the 5 gallon batch also. I am the Marketing Director for a Plastic Company and we roto-mold these units for beverage companies. It was almost like it was engineered for homebrewing. lol. I use a bazooka screen and weldless spigot and BAM! Just works awesome.

If anyone is interested I bet I could talk them into letting a few of these go. I'm not lookin at making any money at all. Just want to help out fellow homebrewers.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/36043197@N07/...57623342446608/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/36043197@N07/...57623342446608/

sorry for the photo quality. left my cam at home so used my blackberry.

Anyone else try this? I have a couple of Sabco SS Fermenters and this past weekend I just put my wort directly in the fermenter after the boil and sealed up and let it cool overnight. Put the yeast in the next afternoon and let her rock. My thinking: not taking a chance on any contamination with my wort chiller AND saving gallons of water in the process.

Anyone think of any reason this is bad? Obviously the most important thing to me is good beer, but if I can do what I can to save resources, i feel better.

THANKS!

Ok so I am doing some work on my kettle. Only I have no idea what to do, or if I can even pull it off. Know any site with instructions for this kind of project?

Posted: by DanielClouser (20 hours ago)

Posted: by duchessedubourg (21 hours ago)

I'm trying to decide if I should get 10 gal rubbermaid coolers, or if I should go with the 15 gal cubes. I like to do big beers, but only do 5 gal batches. I do have the equipment to do 10 gal in the future. Are there any problems with the cubes as far as lost efficiency?