Fresh, quality beer feeds from selected sources for easy, centralized reading saving you from having to chase around the web finding it all for yourself...
And it comes in 4 packs instead of bombers this time, which I prefer. If you are prejudice against SA or imperial pils, I’d urge you to give it a try. The ‘05 version absolutely blowed away all of the other imperial pils I’ve tried - not even in the same ballpark.
Anyone seen it around yet?
I am completely new to brewing and I am going to start with AG brewing. I’ve been researching for a while and think I might have a semi-firm grasp on what is needed. If a recipe says that you will end up with 10 gallons for fermentation, is there a program or website that will convert all the measurements, if I only want to end up will 4 gallons?
Now remember I’m a novice, so be easy on me. 
I brewed up an ordinary bitter with an OG of 1032 and it finished at 1006. It is waaaaay to bitter and dry. It is kegged and carbed and I’m thinking of sweetening it up a bit. My searches haven’t turned up too much, I have 2 5gal cornies of it and am thinking of adding sugar to one and mebbe fruit or honey to the other but my amounts would just be swags, anyone have any thoughts or better ideas?
Posted: by Fugazme (40 minutes ago)
I finally managed to get hold of some yeast, so I’ve got plans to brew this weekend.
I’ve got some Wyeast 1056, 1028 (London), 1214 (Chimay), and 3068 (Hefeweizen). I’m planning to use each of these multiple times over the next couple of months, with a sequence going like this…
1056: APA, IPA, IIPA, Am. Barleywine (might be an Am. Amber in there somewhere too)
1028: Best bitter, ESB, Dry Stout, RIS (I may split the cake and also do an English IPA –> English barleywine track)
1214: Dubbel, Tripel, Quadrupel
3068: Hefeweizen, dunkelweizen, weizenbock
So the hope is to get the first beer with each of these going on this weekend or ASAP. I’ll got the starter for the 1028 on a stirplate tonight and do a 3068 starter without the stirplate. I’ll brew those beers tomorrow, and then do a similar thing tomorrow night with the starters for the 1056 and 1214. I’ll brew those on Sunday.
That’s the plan… what’s up with you?
EH
Through a distributor here in DFW I can get a 500g brick of Saflager S189 for about 75 dollars. [Mod Edit]
On splitting this brick, what would be the best and most sanitary way to split this? Also, does anyone know if 75 dollars is a good price for this?
Yes, I did.
I did just reserved a school bus to go to the Kennett Brew Fest on October 6th.
AND, I am getting T-Shirts made to represent CFWAY!
We only have 30 spots available; the Beer Bus leaves Newark, DE at Noon and returns around 7.
ATTENTION! You still have to purchase your own tickets to the brew […]
but my question is how long should I leave my beer in the primary? I’ll be kegging BTW. I saw where some people left it in there for the full duration of approximately 3 weeks. Others would do 7-10 days and keg and put in their kegerator for however long.
This is a brown ale if that matters. Should I wait for 3 weeks and keg, or should I transfer it to the kegs this weekend and put them in the fridge for X amount of time? If I should transfer soon, how long in the fridge?
I CANNOT keep up with the demand for my light lager. We entertain a lot pretty much every weekend, and people are drinking the hell out of it, sometimes going though 10g a weekend. So I finally bought some new fermenter s (16 gals) procured some legal sanke’s, and am ready to turn out a bbl here this weekend. I still have my keggles so I will have to brew 3 batches in a day to fill the fermenters. My biggest headache so far is the ginormormus starters (8 gallons) I am having to make, and the amount of smack packs I am needing to buy (8!). Luckily I talked to wyeast and my LHBS, and they are willing to sell me 1l pitchables, thats going to save so much time. I am sure it will be an interesting new set of variables!
I don’t know you guys, but I never fathomed I would be brewing 32 gallons at a time when I started this hobby, thats just ludicrous.
Anyone else in this insanity?
Bryan
I love the PBW fill my crusty glass carboy with hot water and PBW and 20 minutes later not a spot on it. It’s amazing, but what is also amazing is how fast i go thru it.
Does Oxy work as well?
I havent brewed in awhile (5 mths) and will be brewing tomorrow, and was thinking about how much sunlight will affect my wort, no matter how small of an amount. After I brew outdoors, use wort chiller, I plan on transferring the wort into my fermenter & pitching. I brew in an open space on my back patio, with no shade. The pouring might take, let’s say 3 min.
Now for the question: For those 3 min, the wort will be exposed to sunlight - is that too much? Should I block out the light?
OK, I did my first re-use of yeast last Saturday morning, was white labs kolsch yeast first used on an Alt. re-used the cake for an oktoberfest ale I racked on to it last Saturday morning. The Alt turned out GREAT, and so I was quite confident the oktoberfest ale would work out ok too. I didn’t look at the fermenter until Wednesday night and there was very little kreusen and not much airlock activity. Could it have fermented out that fast? 4.5 days? I will take a reading tonight, but was just curious if re-pitches tend to ferment out that much faster than normal?
So I have the day off today and what better way to enjoy it than by brewing a clone of Pliny the Elder from Russian River. I’m using the recipe posted in BYO, and have scaled it up to make a total of 42l of beer (~10.5gal).
This will use the last of my base malt and a good chunk of my hops, will have to order more asap.
J
First off… in over 100 batches I have never dry hopped.
I have to use 2oz of pellets in secondary for dry-hop purposes. I have muslin bags. Should I just dump the hop pellets in, or use the muslin bags.
Also, should I be concerned about infection? Is there anything I need to do to ensure that dry hopping does not spoil the beer?
I’m trying to throw a recipe together so I can crush my grains tonight and brew tomorrow morning. I’ll have a nice slurry to pitch, but what to brew?
An obvious choice would be an in your face Sticke, but I’m thinking about a bastardized American alt instead. Any thoughts?
cj
Posted: by Fugazme (19 hours ago)
Well my brew partner for the first time this last week did the mash/sparge on our batch before I got back from work. I asked him how hot he mashed it at and he said high 150s (as in 158 or 159.) I guess instead of stirring until the temp drops to 148-152 like I usually do he just added strike water and closed it up. Anyway the wort seemed fine and be boiled it up with a couple ounces of cascades.
OG 1.052
After a week in fermenter and a seemingly finished fermentation (I know it might drop a few more points)I’m at 1.030!!! The beer tastes good, but it’s really sweet.
Anyway we’ll probably just end up drinking it although I wish I could make it drop a little more. I’m using US-56 and used a big thing of slurry so I think we have plenty of yeast.
I thought I’d post this having seen a thread recently with someone arguing that mash temp doesn’t affect attenuation. It is now my experience that it most definitely does.
A buddy of mine uses a hop back but I do not have the equipment like he does. has anyone dabbled in late wort hopping? any help or suggestions before I try it would be helpful thanks.
so my next brew I am planning on brown plastic bottles. should I prime with less sugar? does the plastic give easier then the glass bottles? or it the same? should I leave more air space maybe?
Few quick questions guys …. I am going to get a water filter at Lowes tonight.
Do you run a regular hose from the faucet to the water filter or an RV hose? Also, for people who purchase the filters from Lowes, do you get the “cheaper” filters or more expensive? If anyone has a model # for the Lowes filter they get I would appreciate it.
Thanks!
Brian
It’s 2fer time again 
If anyone would like a subscription to Brew Your Own magazine for $14 just let me know and we’ll make arrangements to make it happen! 
Cheers!
Browndog
What’s the best way to get around while out in Denver this year? Never been there before. I think our first thing is geting from the airport to the hotel, which is the Holiday in next to the Center… what’s our best bet there?
Mike
….but the ones I have are pretty good. 
A buddy of mine gave me this stuff for free. All I have to do is let him drink some my beer (which would have been on the house anyway, and he knows that). Here they are:
OK, OK, I know it’s not the prettiest bunch of equipment, but beggars can’t be choosers, especially when it’s free. BTW, in the second pic, the free stuff given is the pony keg and the CO2/regulator. Don’t know what I’ll do with the pony keg, and the regulator is in pretty rough shape. First, it’s not a dual regulator, which I don’t know the difference between the two, but it sounds as if that’s the way to go from those on this board. I’m guessing that the duals show the pressure in the keg and the pressure in the CO2 tank? Anyway, it also has the shield broken on the reg, so I don’t even know if it works properly.
Also, the kegerator won’t be my kegerator, but I want to use the tap and such. Problem is that I don’t want the tower type, I need the door type.
OK, you didn’t think you’d read this much without me asking a question, did you? I’ll be kegging with corny kegs, so what are all the components I’ll need to make it happen? I need to make this into a setup for a door type kegerator for corny kegs. I know I’ll need new hoses BTW.
Thanks!
I’m brewing a simple APA tomorrow. I love what Aromatic malt brings to the table. I prefer using a pilsener malt for this instead of a domestic two row because I like the pilsner malt characteristics. The slightly high mash temp is there to provide body as is a 1.4 water to grain ratio. The hops are ones that I like and 35 IBUs should be noticeable but not over-powering at the gravity. I think the peachy esters from the dry Safale 05 yeast will go nicely with the citrusy hops. I’ll update with a tasting report in 4 weeks or so.
This is a scaled down recipe of an IPA that I brewed earlier this year to get it into the APA guidelines.
Specifics
Boil Volume 7.0 gallons
Batch Size 5.5 gallons
Yeast (Safale 05) 75% AA
Style Comparison
Low Calc High
OG 1.045 1.052 1.056
FG 1.010 1.013 1.015
IBU 20 35 40
SRM 4 7 11
ABV 4.5 5.0 5.7
Fermentables
% Weight Wt. (lbs) Grain Gravity Points Color
90.9 % 10.00 German Pilsener 48.4 2.9
9.1 % 1.00 Belgian Aromatic 3.8 4.5
11.00 52.2
Mash Specifics
Step Name Start Temp Stop Temp Infuse Temp Infuse Amt
Medium Body Infusion 70 153 165 15.5 quarts
Batch Sparge Mashout 153 168 186 14 quarts
Collect 28 quarts
Hops
% Wt Weight (oz) Hop Form AA% AAU Boil Time Utilization IBU
12.5 % 0.25 Amarillo Pellet 9.0 2.3 60 0.288 8.8
6.3 % 0.125 Chinook Pellet 12.0 1.5 60 0.288 5.9
6.3 % 0.125 Simcoe Pellet 12.0 1.5 60 0.288 5.9
12.5 % 0.25 Amarillo Pellet 9.0 2.3 15 0.143 4.4
6.3 % 0.125 Chinook Pellet 12.0 1.5 15 0.143 2.9
6.3 % 0.125 Simcoe Pellet 12.0 1.5 15 0.143 2.9
12.5 % 0.25 Amarillo Pellet 9.0 2.3 5 0.057 1.8
6.3 % 0.125 Chinook Pellet 12.0 1.5 5 0.057 1.2
6.3 % 0.125 Simcoe Pellet 12.0 1.5 5 0.057 1.2
12.5 % 0.25 Amarillo Pellet 9.0 2.3 0 0.000 0.0
6.3 % 0.125 Chinook Pellet 12.0 1.5 0 0.000 0.0
6.3 % 0.125 Simcoe Pellet 12.0 1.5 0 0.000 0.0
2.00 35.0
90 minute boil, Add 1/2 Whirlfloc with 15 minutes left. Primary for 2-3 weeks. Then Keg.
The People’s Republic of Flying Dog is now in session. It’s happy hour at Flying Dog Brewery, so here is your latest dose of irreverence.The Flying Dog Legend Grows
Two newsletters ago we released a video of George Stranahan, Flying Dog’s co-founder, telling the story of Flying Dog Breweries infamous origins. Well now it is George’s […]
Posted: by gnuisance (10 hours ago)
I’ve read here a gazillion times the pros to secondary, and seen that some say w/ a long primary they go right to keg, the secondary is somewhat unnecessary. I’m sure there are plenty that will say the benefits outweigh the time, and others will say be patient, but are there certain guidelines (such as lagering) where certain beer profiles are almost mandatory, while others are merely process? I primarily drink stout,porter, and IPA. Id do have an oktoberfest in lagering now for 6 weeks, i’m cool w/ being patient, just don’t want to waste time doing unnecessary conditioming if it means nothing anyhow.
I have the following equipment:
1 6.5 gal glass carboy (empty)
1 plastic fermenter (empty)
1 5 gal glass carboy (full)
1 keg (has beer, not sure how much is left)
The beer in the secondary (5 gal carboy) needs time to age so it has to stay there. I would like to brew another batch this weekend. The new batch does not require secondary fermentation. However, if the keg isn’t empty in time for the beer to be racked out of the primary, what should I do? Please don’t advice me to run out and buy more equipment as I can’t for the time being. I have been following the “1, 2 and 3″ method as a general rule (1 week in primary, 2 weeks in secondary, 3 weeks in keg before tapping). My only options are:
1) Primary in plastic and secondary in 6.5 gal carboy (until keg becomes available)
2) Primary in 6.5 gal carboy and secondary in plastic (until keg becomes available)
3) Allow beer to sit in primary for a longer time, if necessary (maybe 3 weeks?), then if keg is still unavailable rack to another vessel. Then what would be the prefer vessel to use in this case?
What would you do?
so I have a friend in germany. I am suppose to visit him in november. I was hoping to make a batch of brew, and then prime and bottle it and then box it with a crap load of clothes put no return adress and tell them its books. and do this a couple weeks before I’m suppose to go. let it carbonate on the way and tell him to leave it out of the fridge til a certain date. would this be a bad idea? is this a high potwntial of bottlebombs while shipping? or creating a bad brew? or would it be perfectly fine? I’d like to share a case or 2 of my homebrews with him and some german friends. what do you guys think? (itd be an ale)
