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I’ve not brewed this year, in fact I’ve not brewed since October 30, 2006. I want and deserve some noob advice from the Board Braintrust. Things like sanitize your carboy aren’t out of line. A Stout is what I’m after for the first time brewing in so long, help a brother out will ya?
The outward purpose here is to consume a pint of one’s homebrew within 24 hours after starting the mash for this brew. Then consume another pint 48 hours later, and so forth. Pretty silly, maybe, but it’s intersting to me. Pushing the envelope like this forces some rather serious modifications to the normal process, it will be fun for me to see how it turns out.
4:00 PM - Starting gun fires! Turn on oven to pre-heat. Start heating mash water and hops water on kitchen stove.
5:30 PM - Pitched a packet of Nottingham into the wort.
In the meantime: Added two pounds of American 2-row in one gallon of water, added 1/2 oz of Amarillo pellet hops to mash, popped the mash pot (at 152F) in the oven for 30 minutes. Boiled the other 1/2 oz of hops for 30 minutes in about a pint of water, had to top the hop water off with boiling water a couple times as it boiled down. Removed mash from oven after 30 minutes, added the boiling hop water to the mash, heated the mash on the stove to 170F to pasteurize, cooled it in the sink to 78F. Checked OG, 1.062. I purposely pitched a bit hot to give the yeast a fast start, as the wort was not boiled. The mash pot was then placed in my 72F basement, an open fermentation.
8:00 PM - Krausen starting to cover the mash
Main new things here: (1) Fermenting in the mash tun. Never did that before, wondering how taste will be affected. (2) Modified way of mash hopping, adding some boiled hop tea on the side to improve the hop bitterness, (3) No boiling of wort. not totally new, I’ve made a couple no-boil beers before, they show promise (to me, at least), and (4) Sampling beer this early in the brew cycle; answering the seldom-asked question “Can I drink my beer after one day?”
9:30 PM - Nice thick brown krausen on mash.
More tomorrow, stay tuned… 
OF
Edit: Predictions, anyone, about what to expect tomorrow?
Posted: by paulyrimz (5 hours ago)
I have heard a few say that they primary for a few weeks and go straight to the keg. Is there any pitfalls in doing this?
Posted: by BuckSpin (12 hours ago)
Posted: by IntriqKen (13 hours ago)
Posted: by Wasatch (16 hours ago)
Back in the studio again after some scheduling conflicts, Jeff starts to tell about his little beer tour but gets distracted with news, email, and of course the beer.
Beer:
Rankings:
Extras
In a bind 
I know yellow is designed for gas. Can it be used for plumbing as well, instead of white?
I would like to get my father enrolled in a “Beer of the Month” club, as a Xmas gift.
Does anyone know of any good BOTM clubs?
Any info is appreciated.
Thanks.
i am thinking of adding wl645 to of batch of a wit. Figure will age it 6 month then bottle. I have never used the yeast I am planning on adding it to 2ndary. Do I make a starter? if yes just go with normal starter process? I assume that i would not add o2 to the beer when pitching.
edit : 645 is the clausinnii (sp) strain
10 gallon batch of a stout recipe out of clone brews. 9 points off for some reason 
I am guessing crush or not a long enough mash. It will still be beer 
EHLT(grey), boil kettle and mlt(white)
brew cart from the front
Steam (barely visible from the pic)
My neighbor Jeff helping in the chilling process
My plate chiller cooling my boiling wort … 3 bags of ice, 20 minutes and 210 degree wort down to 80 degrees!
Surprised this hasn’t been started yet.
My buddy and I are brewing on Friday. We’re both going to do Jamil & Palmer’s “Hoppiness is an IPA” from the new book. My buddy (a couple of you guys met him at the GABF, haven’t gotten him on the green board yet) is going extract / partial-boil style, and I’m going to do it AG. It should be pretty cool to compare the results when they’re done.
Considering the advantages of dry over liquid yeast in lagers, I’ve been on the hunt for a good dry lager yeast.
Every time a dry lager yeast thread comes up, MixnMatchBrew chimes in and says that he’s had good experiences using Superior Lager Yeast…and then no one else comments on it. Considering the mixed reviews of S-23 and the inaccessibility of S-189, are we overlooking a good dry lager yeast?
Anybody else had experiences (good or bad) with this yeast?
I was thinking of asking for a Beer Gun for Christmas, but I don’t know if I need the accessory kit and the CO2 splitter. I have some of the fittings and hose that are in the kit, and can buy what I don’t have at Home Depot (I think) or some similar place.
My main question is about the CO2 splitter. Can’t I just pressurize the keg to around 12 psi and disconnect the gas? That works for dispensing beer with a picnic tap. I know the pressure will eventually drop to the point where it doesn’t flow, but it seems like if I only need to fill a few bottles, that would work. Or am I missing something? I could just give the keg a shot of CO2 from my portable CO2 injector that uses the small cartridges if I need to increase the flow to fill a few more bottles.
I have for almost 2 years since getting a refractometer been perturbed about the readings with “Raw Wort”
First. Let me say. Yes, I have checked both tools with distilled H2o and they read 0. No adjustment seems needed.
Here is a typical experience.
My cooled to 70′F raw wort read 14.2 B on the refractometer. Promash says thats 1.055 Gravity
The Hydro sample of the exact sample of wort read exactly 1.060 Gravity.
70′F should not need a temp adjustment. Even if you did it would be so small a change.
Shouldnt they both read close to the same? Im quite confident of the Hydro sample. Is Promash giving me a incorrect #?
At 1.060 the refractometer should read 15.3 B
From 14.2 to 15.3 is a big jump on the refractometer. No error on my part reading it. Also I took about 3 or 4 refractometer readings. Also this is a common ongoing thing with each brew batch.
A five point difference is a bit much in my opinion and wanted to know if any of you have an idea for me?
Thank You
C.B
An imperial stout with an OG of 1.132 quit fermenting after about 2 weeks at 1.06. I did a 2 step mash, one for beta amylase at 146, and one for alpha amylase at 153. I also mashed out at 168. I can’t figure out why it would bottom out so early. I used Nottingham dry yeast with yeast energiser. To restart fermentation, I pitched more Nottingham with more energiser. Nothin. So I pitched a packet of champagne yeast with a bit more energiser. Nothing. So I racked the entire batch on top of a yeast cake of a bitter I’d just racked. That was Windsor yeast. Still nothing. SO I used 2 packets of champagne yeast, some yeast energiser and some yeast nutrient. Still nothing… Could it be done at 1.06? Did I somehow screw up the mash? It tastes gross right now. So disgustingly sweet.
I know I read something about it on this forum, but I can’t type “S-23″ in the search box for some very stupid reason. Can someone link to the thread for me, or just give me the run down. I just want to know how well it performs as such (ale-temp primary followed by lager-temp secondary).
I am looking to do a 10 gal batch and i have these hops on hand…. will purchase more if need be but just trying to use these for now.
1 oz Hallertau
1 oz Magnum
1 oz Willamet
1 oz East Kent Goldings
.5 oz Fuggle
Anything come to mind? I would like to do an English Mild maybe….. I dunno
Hey- first time posting in the swap and new at making recipes, so please excuse my newbiness.
I’m planning to make this recipe, and I’m looking for a good balance between malt and American hop aroma. The red color is a key component, though, because I’m brewing for my wife who tastes with her eyes. Can you give me some opinions on whether I should swap out an ingredient for something else in order to acheive a bright red color?
Along with the recipe grains, I also have on hand:
Biscuit malt
Carapils
Special B
Special Roast
Munich Malt
and WLP008 East Coast Ale
Ingredients
Amount Item Type % or IBU
9.50 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 87.16 %
0.50 lb Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 4.59 %
0.40 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 3.67 %
0.40 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 3.67 %
0.10 lb Chocolate Malt (450.0 SRM) Grain 0.92 %
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.90 %] (60 min) Hops 16.0 IBU
1.00 oz Cascade [6.90 %] (20 min) Hops 13.5 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [8.90 %] (1 min) Hops 0.3 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [8.90 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1 Pkgs Munton Fison Ale (Munton-Fison #-) Yeast-Ale
Est Original Gravity: 1.051 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.012 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.03 %
Bitterness: 29.9 IBU
Est Color: 13.7 SRM
Anyone here from the Charlotte area? I am looking to get started and was wondering if there was some local advice available.
Made an AG batch of an ESB that I’ve made before with great sucess but instead of bottling this one I kegged and primed with sugar and let sit at basement temps (60-65 degrees) to carb. I threw it in my kegerator and let it get cold and pulled about a pitchers worth to try to get the sediment out but it’s still pouring pretty yeasty and it’s not even carbed. When I racked into the keg I purged the O2 like when I force carb, was that wrong? Did I rob the yeast of oxygen needed to carb the beer up or did the yeast become active again and start fermenting the sugar and leave me with funky beer.
Oh yeah, did I mention that this tastes like I brewed an extract kit? I can barely taste the hop profile in this one. any thoughts on what to do with it? Can I treat this like a secondary with a cold crash and rack to another keg and maybe dry hop to get some more hop flavor?
Thanks,
B~
Just tried it for $3.29 for 22 oz.
Awesome Hops. One of the best commercial beers I’ve tried. I want to make some.
I was asked a question today at work that I figured I would pass along to you experts over here on the beer borads.
This guy was tossing his spent hops in the garden and the neighbor’s dog was eating them from time to time. Is this bad for the dog?
Hey Canadians!
Has anyone ordered kegs from
http://stores.kegconnection.com/
If so, what did you pay for shipping/duty/etc.
100 bucks for 4 is better then anything I’ve been able to find in this neck of the woods, but I’m guessing the logistics cost pretty much evens it out.
Has anyone made Herman’s Rochefort clone? I was looking at the recipe and was wondering if the FG was still low enough with that much crystal malts in it?(caramunich and Spec 
Thanks. Here’s the link - Linky
I fancy making an altbier - can I get away with using 1056?
Anyone have a lead on some cheap cornies? I am ready to get some more, but it seems like prices have gone up quite a bit since I last bought some.
troy
Can someone help me, I’m looking for a certain recipe sight, but I can’t remember the name. It’s got a million different recipes, plus a recipe creator, different calculators, and I think it has recipes for mead. I remember the recipe creator had a calculator that would calculate the OG and FG, color, and ABV based on the types and amounts of malts used. I just can’t remember the darn site. Can someone please help me?
Kent
Holiday Greetings,
The Details:
Sign Up Deadline - December 1st
Shipping Deadline - December 14th
The Rules for the Pass:
1. Preferably send homebrew, but if your stocks are low you can send a favorite microbrew. If you are sending a commercial style, check in with the person you are sending it to just to make sure they don’t already have a bunch of that in the fridge already. BMC is not pass worthy, so don’t send any of that swill. Sending BMC is grounds for a permanent ban from future passes.
2. The deadline to Ship your beers is 2 weeks after the drawing. That allows some people who get paid every other week to wait for the following paycheck if it falls on an odd week for them. If you find yourself in a situation in which you signed up but cannot provide for the pass, please contact me and we will work it out. I’ve had A LOT of great beers through the pass and I want everyone to have the same opportunity.
3. Every Month is different. Just sign up during the month you want to participate. If you want in, just post below and say “I’m In”
4. You are responsible for PMing the person you are paired up with for the month.
5. Minimum of 4 bottles to be sent, can be 4 of the same, or a mix and match. Feel free to send more if you wish.
6. If you don’t receive your pass within 2 weeks of the deadline, post the offenders name and they are out of the name exchange for good, unless everyone who is participating votes to give them another chance, or a penalty is paid to the person who did not receive beer. Please don’t make CharlieVMan get ill and bust out his pimp hand….
7. You must me 21 to participate.
For information on how to ship beer, please see this FAQ that Mach5 put together.
If you have any questions at all, please let me know. Thanks and Cheers!!!!
