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I’m just looking around for some new recipe packages and other ingredients. I’d never heard of this shop until today.
Have any of you ever ordered from this store? If so what do you think of the quality of the ingredients, customer service, etc?
I read a review on one of the recipe packages. It said the hops were not labeled with variety, weight, or AA%. I would Not be okay with that. I want to know what i’m brewing and put it in my software.
This is one of the first beers that i ever made and i thought it turned out great. But now that i’m a little more knowledgeable there are some things about it that i’m not so sure about. It did come out extremely bitter, perhaps overly so, and that was when i was doing partial boils.
Why use cascade as a bittering hop? And what do you guys think about using Dark liquid extract? I usually use DME and go with the lightest i can get. There is a Ton of specialty malts in this recipe. It would certainly have enough color from the specialty malts and not need any addtional color from the extract.
Thoughts on this recipe?
Black Diamond Imperial Stout
From Mt. Washington Homebrew Supply, Littleton, NH
¾ lb. Black Patent
¾ lb. Chocolate
¾ lb. Roasted
¾ lb. Dark Crystal
1 lb. Biscuit
6 lbs. Dark Extract Syrup
2 lbs. light DME
1 oz. Northern Brewer pellets
2 oz. Cascade leaf
2 oz. Magnum pellets
American Ale yeast
Steep grains at 155 F for ½ hour. Turn off heat, remove grains and add 1.5 lbs. DME and 6 lbs. extract. Bring to a boil, then add 1½ oz. Magnum hops and 1 oz. Cascade hops. After 30 minutes, add ½ oz. Magnum and 1 oz. Northern Brewer. After 45 minutes add 1 oz. Cascade. Boil for 15 more minutes (total boil=60 minutes). Cool and pitch yeast starter.
Yeast starter:
Two days before brewing add ½ lb. DME to 1 qt. water and boil for 5 minutes. Cool to 75 F, then add yeast and pour into a growler. Put on an airlock and use within 2-5 days.
I did my second brew this weekend, and I have a question about the hops additions. I throw them in, foam jumps up, I cut the heat and foam reduces. Good to go, except that it throws all of the hops all over the side of the pot, and I have to scrape it back into the boiling liquid.
Any tricks of the trade out there?
Hey fellas, was going to make a partial mash of this recipe:
8.50 lb Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 81.0 %
1.00 lb Corn, Flaked (1.3 SRM) Grain 9.5 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM) Grain 4.8 %
0.50 lb White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 4.8 %
1.00 oz Northern Brewer [8.50%] (60 min) Hops 30.2 IBU
0.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00%] (45 min) Hops 8.2 IBU
0.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00%] (30 min) Hops 6.8 IBU
0.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00%] (15 min) Hops 4.4 IBU
0.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00%] (5 min) Hops 1.8 IBU
And was wondering if I could partial mash 2 lbs maris otter, 1lb corn and 0.5 lb crystal 80 @ 155 for 40 mins, then make up the rest with extract.
Thanks!
Posted: by BlindPig (16 hours ago)
Here’s what I think of those #@$%&* flimsy, expensive, failure-prone autosiphons: Next time I need to rack I’m going to take a big swig of saniclean, gargle for ten minutes, then start my siphon the manly way.
I’ve found this recipe for a start. Has anyone made this? Suggestions? I was close with one of my first scratch recipes - minus the sour. Plus I think some rye in there would be nice too. Might be a nice spring - early summer session beer.
Would you do the sour mash or just add sour malt?
http://www.ipass.net/mpdixon/Homebrew/Kentucky%20Common.htm
dj
I’m aiming for a Wheat Pale Ale. Nice maltiness with a big floral hop aroma.
Shooting for around 60-70 IBU.
Partial Mash
5 Gallon
4# Light DME
2# Wheat DME
1# Marris Otter
6 oz. Munich
4 oz. Special B
2 oz. Crystal 80L
4 oz. Carapils (Will this make a difference if I’m already using wheat for head retention?)
Mashing all the grains together at 150 for 45 minutes.
1 oz. Columbus pellets (15.2%) 60 min
1 oz. Galena pellets (13%) 30 min
.5 oz. Galena pellets 5 min
.5 oz. Columbus pellets 5 min
.5 oz Columbus and Galena - Dry Hop
(Other Hops I have on hand….Mt. Hood, Santiam, Sterling, Willamette and Hersbrucker)
WLP023 Burton Ale Yeast (Starter made the day before)
Suggestions always welcome!
i have an over flow bucket for my primary and secondary fermenters and my dad was messing around and decided it would be a good idea to put more water in the bucket so he used a another bucket that had some bleach or something in it (hahaha dont ask why) so anyways i pushed down on the cap and then picked the hose up out of the water and was going to check my beer but i wasnt thinking and it sucked the water right into my beer…. it wasnt a lot but it was enough you think i should dump the whole batch?? it happened yesterday and it seems to be ok as far as fermentation goes. havent tasted it yet kinda scared haha
I am now the proud owner of a stout faucet.
From what I have read here, I should first force carbonate with CO2.
My question is, should I use beer gas mix or straight Nitrogen to dispense?
Also, I know that Nitrogen uses a different type of cylinder and regulator from CO2. What about beer gas?
Thanks
Brewery Tour | Beermann’s Beerwerks from Rick on Vimeo.This video was shot by Rick Sellers of Pacific Brew News. He is a friend of the GBS and a member of Beer Safari. Rick takes us on a visual tour of Beermann’s Beer Werks out of Roseville, California. Great job Rick!
So I’m going to brew my Raspberry Honey Wheat for my wife in a few days. I have all my ingredients except my pound and a half of honey. Can I use honey from the grocery store that contains preservatives or will that affect my yeast health and viability?
Thanks guys!
Al
After a couple weeks of cutting, grinding, welding, drilling, mounting, painting and all the rest, I finally finished my new BrewStand this weekend. I thought I would share the fruits of my labor with you.
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I put up a new page on Brew365.com that is a chart of some of the larger suppliers and what hops they have in stock for quick reference. I plan to update this weekly or so.
So, if you’re hunting for a specific hop, hopefully this helps.
Well with all the hop problems going on, I thought it might be a good idea to try to organize some type of trade. I think like 5-6 ozs would make it worth while. Does anyone want to set something up? I live in the midwest. Shipping is also an option. I have these hops for trade. All leaf unless noted. They are probally all spelled wrong..
:x
Amarillo (pellets)
Gelena
German hersbrucker
Cascade
Fuggle
Let me know.
I am interested in chinook, centenial and probally anything i dont have, leaf is prefered.
Thanks.
Posted: by Dryzga (15 hours ago)
Posted: by RedTerror (21 hours ago)
OK, last night my wife decided to get a 6-pack of Rolling Rock.(One of those cravings women get, ya know) Totally forgot that the big guys in St. Louis had bought the brewery in PA and moved it to Jersey. She gets like 3 drinks or so into the first beer and I can see the look of disgust in her face. She asks me to take a sip because she swears that “This is NOT Rolling Rock”, and wouldn’t ya know, it’s totally a different Rolling Rock from what I can remember, no skunky taste, no pale lagerish bite, nothing, just a sweetend up version of a Bud Light or somethin. I know that this probably doesn;t belong in the green board here but I had to just pass along more proof that the big guys are still selling mass marketed crap that we need to get off the shelves.
How bout that Romo guy huh???
This show we sample some american bocks and doppelbocks. Jeff learns a lesson that some beers can’t be cellared for two and a half years. Greg learns that American High alpha hops have no place in a Doppelbock. And we both wonder what the hell happened to the normally delicious St. Nick Bock.
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For most of ‘07 I used Warrior, it was efficient, neutral and effective. Lately its been Summit, super efficient! But I just got a pound of Magnum pellets, so that’ll be the house bittering hop for ‘08 along with Summit for some really hoppy beers. I have also used Northern Brewer, Phoenix, First Gold, Northdown and Columbus in the past with good results.
Any body that harvest top fermenting yeast before it falls please let me know how you do it!
I’m planning to brew my first all grain batch in a few weeks. Any suggestions on a easy but good first recipe? Thanks in advance.
Posted: by BARLEYWINEO (14 hours ago)
Posted: by drperm (18 hours ago)
I have brewed a few beers now and still cannot seem to get good carbonation in my beer. I bottle carb my brew following the standard advice of boiling 3/4 cup corn sugar in 2 cups of water for my 5 gallon batch and add that to my bottling bucket before racking. The bottles sit in my closet at about 68-72 degrees for a few weeks (minimum) and the carbonation is always low and there is little head on my brew. (My last IPA turned out the worst so far as far as carbonation goes - it just seems to be dead).
Any thoughts/ advice out there? Even my first two batches from May ‘07 seem to be on the low end…
I’ve searched both Target and even Wally-World (shudder) and I can’t find one of these anywhere. Does anyone know a big chain that carries them still? Would like to build a new mash tun.
If not, is there a suitable replacement?
Animoto test from Jeffrey Meyer on Vimeo.
I am excited about 2008. We have a show coming at you soon where we not only drink craft beer but single malt Scotch also. Tom recorded the show with us on New Year’s Eve. As soon as we work out some musical issues the show […]
I was in the LHBS today and they said their supplier has got a deal with Hop Union to supply hops for this year. I think the supplier is L.D. Carlson. The way it’s apparently going to work is the supplier will allocate similar amount of hops as they purchased in 07 for 08. If they buy them all in the first six months, no more hops, for example, for the second half of the year. So, there’s some incentive for homebrew shops to ration throughout if sales are above average.
This doesn’t mean particular hops will be available, just that there will apparently be hops. No idea of pricing, but I’d guess it will be ball park current prices. They were selling hops at $3/oz, and recently reduced to $2.50. So, it seems, a little light in the storm.
I ordered the Boston Chappy extract kit from HBA. The instructions say to add the DME and heat for 5-20 minutes, then add the grains (crystal 60 and english chocolate) and heat to a boil and remove the grains immediately upon boil. Unless I’m mistaken that’s bad isn’t it?
Also, it came with a whirflock tablet, what’s that do?
I don’t recall anyone mentioning this program. I tried the main commercial programs and settled on this open source program:
http://www.usermode.org/code.html
I’m just a freeware, or open source kind of a guy. It does everything that I need if I use BreWater to do water calculations.
