Beer Feeds

Just got back from a bar that had a slew of mixed beer drinks. One drink floated guinness on top of a wood chuck cider. Man it tasted great; nice and creamy to start but finished with that cider twang. The drink came to my table and looked much like a lava lamp, with the guinness actually floating above the cider. Half of the glass was cider the other half was guinness! As I drank the beer the layers stayed stratified.

I have 2 questions:

1. What causes this phenomenon?

2. Can I do it with a homebrew stout and a homebrew pale ale (or is it just a property of guinness alone)? If so which ingredients allow for greatest separation in the glass.

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Had a free night and thought I would add a sight glass to my 10 gal rubbermaid cooler, which I use(d) as a HLT with a bucket heater.

Picked up a weldless bulkhead, and other parts to make the sight glass.

Using a spade bit, drilled a hole for the bulk head.

Well, apperantly a spade bit is the wrong tool for this job. Left me with ragged circle, which means it basically cut/broke a hole through the cooler. End result is, parts of the “hole” are larger than the rubber washer. Which means leaks.

Perhaps, if I would have drilled from inside the cooler out, it would have cut cleaner. But, I really don’t think so.

So, I need to go get a new cooler for an HLT. I am going to have to drill another hole in the new one. What type of drill bits are you using to drill and make a clean cut through a cooler???

Oh, and by the way, I’m a Michigan State fan (wifes an alumn). So, I got to watch them get their butts kicked while I busted my HLT. Real fun night here for me Time to go to bed and start a new day!

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I am having trouble seating my regulator onto this new tank I just swapped out. I tried doubling the washers in the socket, still the tank leaked when I tried to open it. I tried swapping out for a new washer and it leaked. I am about to try no washer but I doubt that is going to work. Any tips, ideas, something I’m misisng?

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I’m surprised no one else started this yet!

Anyways, I’m a few hours into brewing my first lager; a Märzen. Some of my numbers were a little off and I accidentally mixed up my 60 minute hop addition with the 30, but after a few tweaks things are looking good!

As a bonus, a pale ale I made earlier this month is really filling in the time between hop additions.

Happy brewing everyone!

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So, I screwed up and accidentally ordered a partial mash recipe kit from Midwest. It’s the Cascade Pale Ale. I’ve only done two batches that were extract, w/ a small muslin bag of specialty grains. This recipe has 4 lbs of crushed grains. I’ve never sparged grains before, but it seems like something I can do, but will have to do it in a couple diff. runs b/c my metal colander isn’t big enough to hold 4lbs of grains.

A few questions about my instructions:

“5. The Boil Before returning the pot to burner add your malt extract. Make sure to stir the water so the malt
extract does not scorch on the bottom of your pot. As soon as you see a boiling bubble add 1 oz Cascade
bittering hops and boil for at least 30 minutes, and as long as 60 minutes, depending on desired bitterness.
Stir as needed. Midwest recommends boiling for 60 minutes for optimal hop utilization. DO NOT LEAVE
YOUR POT UNATTENDED! Boil-overs are messy and should be cleaned up immediately. This can be avoided
by going back and forth between high and medium high. Add 1 oz Cascade flavor hops for the last 15 minutes.
During this boiling period add 3.5 -4 gallons of cold water to your sterilized 6.5 gallon fermenter and set aside.
Add 1 oz Cascade aroma hops for the last two minutes and take off the burner. Remember, bittering hops and
aroma hops are the same. The only difference is the amount of time you boil them! “

Can I, or better shouldn’t I put all 5 gallons into my brew kettle? It’s an 8 gal. kettle, and can certainly hold everything. I’d be much more comfortable knowing all my liquid was completely sterile.

I’ve got 3 oz. of cascade going into this. Which sounds like a lot to me, but I’m a huge hophead. I have 1/2 oz. of Saaz and 1/4 oz. of Kent Golding left over from another batch. Can I work these into this recipe? Maybe use some or all as a dry hop in secondary? I’ve never altered a recipe, so I’m hesitant to do so.

Thanks in advance

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I’m looking for some input from fellow brewers who have already brewed this style and can offer some pointers. I want the beer to be drinkable with maybe just a little bit of body but not enough to get in the way of drinking many pints in one setting. I want it to have a nice firm bitterness and would also like it have a nice floral and or spicy taste in the finish. I’m not looking to hold 100% true to style here so i’m even open to dry hopping this if need be to get the finish that I want. I want a beer that is easy drinking but still has enough character to let you know this definatly ain’t BMC. I was planning on an O.G of around 1.056 and ain’t sure abut what i should try to hit as a F.G or total IBU’s.

Here’s the recipe I have in mind thus far:

9 lb wyermann 2-row pils
2 lb flaked maze

Yeast: White Labs WLP800

Hops?

I can go up or down as far as the grain amounts go if need be and the yeast is a done deal becuase I already have a starting going for it. As far as the hops go I am pretty open on that. Here’s a list of what I have in my hop inventory to that might work for this beer fyi- all whole hops

Northern Brewer
Goldings
Sterling
Mt.Hood
Crystal
Perle
Tettnang
Spalt Select

I have no clue on which hop or combination there of to use. I’ve yet to use either Spalt or Sterling so I have no idea what they will bring to the party.

I was planning on doing a single infusion mash at 150F for 60 min. I always like to end up with 5.25 gal of wort in the fermentor.

I plan on pitching a gallon worth of starter (decanted of course) when the wort is 45F and then bringing it up to my fermentation temp of 50F and fermenting for 3-4 weeks (how ever long it takes) and then lagering it at 34F for around another month.

Not sure if i’ll need a diasatal rest or not since I’ve never used this yeast. I also don’t know if I should chill the yeast in the fridge the day before to get it down to pitching temp. At best i’ve had mediocre sucess at making pilsners so all suggestions are welcome.

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I’m brewing a lager next week and planned on adding a starter one gallon in size.

Can I just a create one gallon of 1.030 wort and pitch my vial of yeast straight into it or should I first create a one or two liter starter and then step up to the one gallon size?

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SO I have a 5 keg system. 20# tank outside the freezer with a 0-60 and 0-3000 regulator. Manifold inside the freezer with a regulator set to 30psi (for sealing kegs) and a 10 psi regulator used for the 5 kegs.

I have 5 fairly new kegs in the fridge and a new 2-# tank of gas.

If I connect all gas lines, turn gas on for 10 minutes, 3 hours whatever, then turn off…. both main regulators (60 and 3000) deplete within an hour (maybe quicker on the 60).

I disconnected all of my lines and turned the gas on and off. Regulators have not moved. All kegs still have gas in them.

What do you see as differences between lines connected versus disconnected?

Thanks,

Bill

ps……I hate having to fill my gas so I no longer leave my gas on. I carb in another fridge. I turn this tank on only to serve….then off again

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These 8 mm spouts are the bomb.

I’ve got some 11.75 mm that came with two of my taps, and 12.5 that came with two others. I’ve got a few others from Mike at Shirron, but not sure what they are. I think they’re 11.75 without measuring.

I’ve replaced two with the 8mm, and they make a great pour. The 11.75 work OK, and the 12.5 makes the pour hollow and makes a lot of foam. The 11.75 is hollow sometimes too. The 8 mm shoots out like a champ and lets me control the beer’s head by tilting the glass. The bigger spouts came from a commercial tap, and I think the deal is they serve at higher psi, so greater flow than the balance of my system. So, homebrewers may want to check out the 8 mm.

NB sells them for $4.25 ea. Highly recommend checking them out.

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I’m flying down to Orlando to pick up a VW Westphalia camper with my girlfriend next week and driving it back up to Connecticut. I’d like to find some breweries, brewpubs or even just good beer bars along 95 to stop at on the drive up. I only have a couple of days to make the trip so I can’t get to far off course. Any suggestions?

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This is my first yeast starter. I’ve realized that I have no rubber stoppers to fit in my flasks. Do I need to airlock the flask or not? I’ve heard stuff about just putting a piece of sanitized aluminum foil on it. Is that enough? I might have gotten that step mixed up with something else.

thanks!

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Spring 2008 Community Brew
T-58 Belgian-ish Rye PA

Initial Discussion

Grain Bill Discussion

Hop discussion

All-Grain Option

Grain Bill
% Weight Weight (lbs) Grain Gravity Points Color
33.3 % 3.50 American Two-row Pale 19.4 1.3
14.3 % 1.50 American Six-row Pale 7.9 0.5
14.3 % 1.50 Rye 6.8 1.1
9.5 % 1.00 Flaked Corn 6.0 0.1
4.8 % 0.50 Belgian Aromatic 2.3 2.5
4.8 % 0.50 Belgian Caravienne 2.3 2.2
19.0 % 2.00 Honey 10.5 0.6 (Added at end of primary fermentation)

Hops
60 Min. Bittering Addition
Approximately 20-22 IBUs from one hop from the Fuggle family
Examples:
- 1.12oz Fuggles (5.1%AA) = 20.5 IBU
- 1.12oz Willamette (5.3%AA) = 21.3 IBU
- 1.12oz Styrian Goldings (5.5%AA) = 22.1 IBU
- 1.25oz Tettnanger (4.5%AA) = 20.2 IBU
- 1.00oz Progress (6.3%AA) = 22.4 IBU

20 Min. Flavor Addition
Approximately 4-6 IBUs from one hop from the Hallertau family
Examples:
- 0.50oz Hallertau (4.0%AA) = 4.3 IBU
- 0.50oz Liberty (4.0%AA) = 4.3 IBU
- 0.50oz Ultra (4.5%AA) = 4.9 IBU
- 0.50oz Crystal (3.7%AA) = 4.0 IBU
- 0.50oz Strisselspalt (3.8%AA) = 4.1 IBU
- 0.50oz Vanguard (5.0%AA) = 5.4 IBU
- 0.50oz Mount Hood (5.0%AA) = 5.4 IBU
- 0.50oz Hersbrucker (4.0%AA) = 4.3 IBU

Yeast
Safbrew T-58

Specifics
OG 1.055
FG 1.014
IBU 24-28
ABV 5.3 %
SRM 6

Partial Mash Option (With Honey):

Grain Bill
% Weight Weight (lbs) Grain Gravity Points Color
26.3 % 2.50 Light Dry Malt Extract 16.9 1.0
15.8 % 1.50 American Six-row Pale 7.9 0.5
15.8 % 1.50 Rye 6.8 1.1
10.5 % 1.00 Flaked Corn 6.0 0.1
5.3 % 0.50 Belgian Aromatic 2.3 2.5
5.3 % 0.50 Belgian Caravienne 2.3 2.2
21.1 % 2.00 Honey 10.5 0.6 (Added at end of primary fermentation)

Hops
60 Min. Bittering Addition
Approximately 20-22 IBUs from one hop from the Fuggle family
Examples:
- 1.12oz Fuggles (5.1%AA) = 20.5 IBU
- 1.12oz Willamette (5.3%AA) = 21.3 IBU
- 1.12oz Styrian Goldings (5.5%AA) = 22.1 IBU
- 1.25oz Tettnanger (4.5%AA) = 20.2 IBU
- 1.00oz Progress (6.3%AA) = 22.4 IBU

20 Min. Flavor Addition
Approximately 4-6 IBUs from one hop from the Hallertau family
Examples:
- 0.50oz Hallertau (4.0%AA) = 4.3 IBU
- 0.50oz Liberty (4.0%AA) = 4.3 IBU
- 0.50oz Ultra (4.5%AA) = 4.9 IBU
- 0.50oz Crystal (3.7%AA) = 4.0 IBU
- 0.50oz Strisselspalt (3.8%AA) = 4.1 IBU
- 0.50oz Vanguard (5.0%AA) = 5.4 IBU
- 0.50oz Mount Hood (5.0%AA) = 5.4 IBU
- 0.50oz Hersbrucker (4.0%AA) = 4.3 IBU

Yeast
Safbrew T-58

Specifics
OG 1.053
FG 1.013
IBU 0
ABV 5.2 %
SRM 8

All-Grain Option (Sans Honey):

Grain Bill
41.7 % 5# Two-row Pale
12.5 % 1.5# Six-row Pale
12.5 % 1.5# Rye
8.3 % 1# Flaked Corn
4.2 % .5# Aromatic
4.2 % .5# Caravienne

Hops
60 Min. Bittering Addition
Approximately 20-22 IBUs from one hop from the Fuggle family
Examples:
- 1.12oz Fuggles (5.1%AA) = 20.5 IBU
- 1.12oz Willamette (5.3%AA) = 21.3 IBU
- 1.12oz Styrian Goldings (5.5%AA) = 22.1 IBU
- 1.25oz Tettnanger (4.5%AA) = 20.2 IBU
- 1.00oz Progress (6.3%AA) = 22.4 IBU

20 Min. Flavor Addition
Approximately 4-6 IBUs from one hop from the Hallertau family
Examples:
- 0.50oz Hallertau (4.0%AA) = 4.3 IBU
- 0.50oz Liberty (4.0%AA) = 4.3 IBU
- 0.50oz Ultra (4.5%AA) = 4.9 IBU
- 0.50oz Crystal (3.7%AA) = 4.0 IBU
- 0.50oz Strisselspalt (3.8%AA) = 4.1 IBU
- 0.50oz Vanguard (5.0%AA) = 5.4 IBU
- 0.50oz Mount Hood (5.0%AA) = 5.4 IBU
- 0.50oz Hersbrucker (4.0%AA) = 4.3 IBU

Yeast
Safbrew T-58

Specifics
OG- 1.053
FG- 1.013
SRM- 7
ABV-5.2%

Partial Mash Option (Sans Honey):

Grain Bill
39.1 % 4.5# Light Dry Malt Extract
12.5 % 1.5# Six-row Pale
12.5 % 1.5# Rye
8.3 % 1# Flaked Corn
4.2 % .5# Aromatic
4.2 % .5# Caravienne

Hops
60 Min. Bittering Addition
Approximately 20-22 IBUs from one hop from the Fuggle family
Examples:
- 1.12oz Fuggles (5.1%AA) = 20.5 IBU
- 1.12oz Willamette (5.3%AA) = 21.3 IBU
- 1.12oz Styrian Goldings (5.5%AA) = 22.1 IBU
- 1.25oz Tettnanger (4.5%AA) = 20.2 IBU
- 1.00oz Progress (6.3%AA) = 22.4 IBU

20 Min. Flavor Addition
Approximately 4-6 IBUs from one hop from the Hallertau family
Examples:
- 0.50oz Hallertau (4.0%AA) = 4.3 IBU
- 0.50oz Liberty (4.0%AA) = 4.3 IBU
- 0.50oz Ultra (4.5%AA) = 4.9 IBU
- 0.50oz Crystal (3.7%AA) = 4.0 IBU
- 0.50oz Strisselspalt (3.8%AA) = 4.1 IBU
- 0.50oz Vanguard (5.0%AA) = 5.4 IBU
- 0.50oz Mount Hood (5.0%AA) = 5.4 IBU
- 0.50oz Hersbrucker (4.0%AA) = 4.3 IBU

Yeast
Safbrew T-58

Specifics
OG- 1.055
FG- 1.014
SRM- 7
ABV-5.3%

Helpful links for people extract people doing their first partial mash:
BYO Stove and Counter top partial mashing with a mesh paint strainer bag - a how-to-guide
BYO partial mashing with the oven

I plan to do a single-step mash at 152F … if anyone needs help with water volumes, how to partial mash, or any other reason let us know and we will be happy to walk you through it.

(let me know if I forgot to include anythng…I’m a bit of a NOOB at this whole community brew thing.)

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Edit, I found the article at http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/Kegging.pdf.

I read an article which I have printed out but don’t have the link anymore that talks about each beer’s CO2 volumes has a suggested flow rate in oz/min. And that this flow rate has a drastic affect on the back pressure of beer line. For example, a wheat beer that is to be carbed at 3.0 volumes at 40F would have a PSI of 17.7. Traditional thinking would say that a 3/16″ beer line would have a resistance of around 2psi/ft. Hence about 9 feet of beer line would be sufficient for a nice foam free pour.

However, this article’s approach factors in the desired flow rate of a 3.0 beer which is 80 oz/min (very slow). With this flow rate, the article calculates the pressure drop of 3/16″ tubing at .94 PSI/ft. This is literally half of the traditional number. Hence almost 18 feet of line would be needed.

As the flow rate increases (based on the volumes of CO2 decreasing) the back pressure of the 3/16″ tubing decreases dramatically. For example a british ale with a CO2 volume of 2.0 would have a flow rate of 128 oz/min. 3/16″ tubing would have a back pressure of 2.2 PSI/ft.

The point of all this being that the back pressure of beer line varies based on the amount of carbonation in the beer. The higher the beer is carbed, the lower the flow rate should be and the lower the beer line’s resistance. The lower the beer is carbed the higher the flow rate should be and the higher the beer line’s resistance.

Does this all make sense? Am I stating the obvious? It just seems that most people are basing beer line length solely on PSI.

Thanks.

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I’m interested in determining if someone has made a beer of this type before and what your outcome was.

A hefeweizen without wheat… hmmm…

The reason I’m even considering it is that I have a hefe in the primary, no more wheat malt, and a bunch of barley malt. I could just reuse the yeast and make a new batch of beer this weekend without a trip to the HBS

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks!

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All,

i am looking at trying to design a new house Pale Ale. I presently use a Pale Ale AG kit from HBA and want to design my own. Below is my grain bill for a 5 gal batch. I batch sparge. My brewhouse efficency is set at 65% in Beer Smith. I like my pale ales to be clean, crisp, and have alot of hop flavor and aroma (I really enjoy the Strong spicy, floral, grapefriut character typical of a pale ale). I don’t want to make an IPA, but a nice hoppy APA is what I am trying to achieve.

Here is what I have.

9.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 75.00 %
1.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 8.33 %
1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 8.33 %
1.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 8.33 %
0.50 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] (60 min) Hops 22.8 IBU
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (15 min) Hops 14.8 IBU <——- (Possibly delete this addition)
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (5 min) Hops 5.9 IBU
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -
0.25 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 10.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) Yeast-Ale

I have been reading that Simcoe and Amariilo are a great combination for a Pale Ale so I decided to go with that. I am not sure about the 15 min hop addition and I am thinking about increasing my 60 min Simcoe addition to .75 oz and then go with the 1 oz Amarillo addition at 5-10 minutes and deleting that 15 min addition altogether.

Everyones input and expertise would be great ———- TIA !!

Aaron

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Posted: by Cfahooligan (7 hours ago)

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Ventmatic used to make them. Maltose Falcons has a DIY version here: http://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/resistivegate.php

Anyone use one? Is there any specific formula on how much less beer line I can use? I have some wheat beers and belgians that I am getting ready to tap. I need mucho long beer lines for the 22 psi for these beers. Would like to make a DIY flo-gate, but don’t know how much beer line I would need to end up with.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

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Posted: by bluegrassbrew (15 hours ago)

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I was telling some guy about brewing my beer today and he asked me if I had to store it in my crawl space for a few months to age. I explained to him that I’ve been making ales and then the basic differences between ale and lager, top or bottom yeast, temperature, old german caves ect … Then he stumped me. He asked what would happen if I would have taken my stout and added lager yeast instead and then cold stored it away…

I said it would probably taste funny because each yeast is tailored to different beer styles and imparts a flavor component that we’re used to. I said there was some beer I remember hearing of where they took a lager or ale and switched things up, I think it was in San Fransisco where it became popular but I don’t remember the details.. anyways.

Anyone ever try this before? I know I’ve had black lager, is it just a regular stout with different yeast? Anyone ever wonder what would happen to their oatmeal stout if they pitched some lager yeast instead?

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Posted: by JackWeizen (18 hours ago)

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So last weekend with help from the brew board (P-J) I built a kegerator from a Sanyo 4912M. Everything worked out perfect, I drilled a hole in the top and mounted a two tap tower. I finally crimped all of the lines with clamps tonight and hooked up my 5# CO2 tank with the due product regulator - Regulator. My hopes were to try and keg my creme ale tomorrow night and force carb it so I could enjoy this weekend but when I went to go for a dry run; i.e. ensuring everything fit smoothly inside the Sanyo 4912 (the two cornies - cornies, regulator, and 5# CO2 tank) the door would not close. I was hoping to have the CO2 tank and regulator on the “hump” in the back. In order for this to work the CO2 tank would have to be directly in the middle of the two cornies but with the duel product regulator, it does not work. I was very nervous to drill the hole in the top and would rather not drill anymore as I am nervous not to ruin the refrigerator. Any ideas how I can work this out? Would the CO2 fit on the door in the bottom tray? If nothing will work, where should I drill? I know that I can take one of the gas lines in through the drain on the top of the “hump” but where would I put the second gas line? I am at a loss as to what to do - any suggestions are welcome.

Back of the Sanyo 4912

Side of the Sanyo 4912

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I was under the impression that hop flavor comes from the volatile oils, which boil off in about fifteen minutes. Despite this, I see many recipes with hop additions at 30 and 45 minutes. Is this just to achieve a certain IBU, or do these differing times actually produce different flavors?

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Is there any way to get beer out of my keg and transport it?
I love the kegs and all but i would love to take some beer down to my brother this weekend
i know that you can get 1/2 gallon growler at some places and they stay carbonated but how can i keep mine carbonated any ideas

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or, motivations to use hose clamps

I woke up at 4 in the morning the other night to a loud bang, and the sound of my gas tang discharging at full throttle. I jumped out of bed and turned off the bottle, which thankfully was fine. (just as well, it had only been certified a few months earlier)

Then, I went looking for the culprit, first checking the fridge, where I expected that a disconnect had blown off or a pressure release valve had blown on my old ratty kegs. nope, no beer spraying all over the fridge.

It was the gas line hose leading onto my manifold, which had blown off the hose barb. No hose clamps there, but there hadn’t been any for the last 3-4 months either. This is what I get for trying to use 25psi to get things carbed quicker for two days, instead of my normal schedule of 13psi for 8-10 days. Just a little bit too much pressure

I put a clamp on, turned the pressure down, the gas back on, and went back to bed.

Of course, the beer wasn’t fully carbed yet, so the next evening, I turned the pressure back up, confident at least that if anything did blow again, I’d wake up and hear it

Of course, the other end of the manifold blew. The end that I couldn’t even get off the barb the night before to put a clamp on. Well, it has a clamp now

The little plastic t-piece inside the fridge mind you, not a peep out of it, and it’s got no clamps on it either. Either way, I reckon I’ll just go back to letting things carb at their own speed.

Gave me a hell of a fright waking up the first night.

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Go a Ranco temp controller for my standup fridge.

Where would be the best place to hang the tstat and how high low? Thanks all.

Gregg

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OK i went out and bought the aeration stone and the hose…i do not know where to find the adapter to put on the O2 tank. anyone have an idea where i can get that?

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I’m in the process of creating a little gadget to sanitize my plate chiller prior to use. I found in annoying to try to prep it with a “make-shift” system during my brew day. With this design I can contain the system in a portable form. I can just fill it with sanitizer solution, plug it in, hook up the hoses via QD’s on my plate chiller and let it go. Does any one have any thoughts, comments, or advice on this system?

This of course would NOT be used to clean the plate chiller after use. I have a back flush system for that.

Thanks!

Al

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Just an interesting tidbit… I bought an O2 tank today at a gas shop, and was just feeling them out on the quality. As has been recounted before, this places fills both medical and welding oxygen from the same tank. The difference is he has to certify the purity w/ medical.

The interesting thing is that he said good welding O2 exceed the specs of medical grade, and that’s what they sell to everyone. So, something to think about. Just find a good shop and you may be even better off than with medical.

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Brutus 20

Essentially Constant Recirculation of the mash, and keeping heat constant as well. Seems simple and may make the brew day a little easier. As I have to travel to the parents in-law as condo made me relocate my brewery every minute counts. I would like to try and get two brews done in a day.

Let me know what you guys think!

Squeeky

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I can’t remember which of you it was. I was wondering how it turned out. I can’t believe I can even come close to THA with only 4 oz’s of centennial.

link

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