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Archive for March, 2008

Nottingham, Pint Size Starter

Sunday, March 23rd, 2008

Well I’m brewing a Blonde Ale tomorrow and its the first time I’ve been able to brew since the Winter so I’m doing the best to make sure everything goes right. I’ve been brewing 10gal batches and splitting into two ale pales. Last brew one pale fermented the other did not. In order to make sure my yeast was active I made pint size yeast starters tonight and split an 11g pack of nottingham between the two.

Now I still have one pack I have not openned, I figured I would see some activity on the starters tomorrow evening before pitching. My goal is to pitch a starter per pale, and half a pack of dried. Does this seem ok?

Squeeky

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Posted: by patsalvaggio (20 hours ago)

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First Brew Panic!

Saturday, March 22nd, 2008

Hello all!! Last night my friend and I decided to try our hands at our first batch of homebrew. We purchased a Belgian Wit kit from a local homebrew supply shop and went to work.

A brief rundown of the instructions for the kit:
2 gallons water to boil -> bittering hops for 30 min-> sugar/malt extract/aroma hops boiling for 5 minutes.

In the fermenter we used two 8# bags of ice and another gallon of water. After adding the wort to the ice/water we pitched the yeast at about 62-63 degrees.

So now my concern is this… according to the White Labs info from the pitchable yeast we should see some fermenting activity within 5-15 hours. It’s now been 24 with no activity.

The label to the Belgian Wit yeast said we should remove the yeast 2-6hrs so that they can come to room temp.

I can’t get into any of the more specific/scientific stuff because I just don’t know. This is our first attempt and we’re trying to figure it out as we go.

Basically, I’m afraid that I’m messed up my first batch of homebrew… Anyone with any suggestions? (RDWHAHB!!)

Thanks!!
John

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Electric Brewscuplture

Saturday, March 22nd, 2008

With all the electric brewery questions lately I thought I would post pictures of mine. Hopefully it is safe.

The stand is 3′ wide 3′ deep and 55″ to the top of the kettles. HLT and BK on top. HLT and control panel on the bottom.

Panel is a salvaged SS water tight panel. All connections, but the connection to the kettle sensors are water tight. That will be water tight when I can get a thermocouple coupling bar.

Panel door. Each PID has a switch. The switch for the MLT is Hand/Auto/OFF so I can control flow through the CFC. The black circle with nothing in it is the disconnect for the panel, it closes onto the switch connection. The small red button on the front of the panel that is not connected yet will connect to the kitchen and will be a signal to my wife to bring food to the brewery.

The white panel is bonded to the box and frame and is the ground for the entire unit. The kettle grounds come back to this also. Like was mentioned in another thread, you want one common ground. My brewery is protected by a 50amp GFCI in the house panel.

This is just a pic of how my element connects to the kettle and how I ground it.

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Rhizomes are here!

Saturday, March 22nd, 2008

Think I’m going to plant Centennial, Mt Hood, Santium and Golding. Challenger isn’t available it seems, but I’ll try to get a cutting from a friend’s. Buying a house next week and looking to do a bunch of raised beds as well as a hop trellis. Maybe a little summer’s eve beer-sipping bench. I can smell it now.

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Cleaning old draft parts

Saturday, March 22nd, 2008

I picked up some old draft parts for next to nothing today (faucets, shanks,etc), but they are in BAD shape.

They are all chrome plated brass, and seem to be covered in all kinds of crud. What is recommended to clean this?

I’ve read BLC and I’ve read acids (vinegar, star san). I don’t know that regular strength star san is going to get this clean.

Suggestions?

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I drank my first homebrew last night!

Saturday, March 22nd, 2008

It was great to finally get to drink from my first batch last night. I’ve read that you can sample a bottle about a week after they go into bottles, but won’t be fully carbed until at least 2 weeks. I got impatient and tried one last night after 6 days of being in the bottle. I poured it into a pint glass, and it seemed to almost be over carbed. There was a good 2.5″ - 3″ head sitting atop the beer. Is this normal? Should I be worried about it continuing to carb, and bottles exploding?

My review:

It was good, but not what I expected. I used an IPA recipe kit from homebrew adventures, but it was closer to a pale ale, almost tasted like Bass. It seemed to be lacking some hop flavor/aroma. I think I know what to attribute this too. There was also quite a bit of sediment, and it was a bit cloudy. I’m sure this was b/c it went into bottles about a week and a half after brew day. Am I correct in assuming that it would of cleared out if it sat in secondary for a little while?

So, since I seem to be fully carbed, can I drink up?

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All Grain Analysis

Saturday, March 22nd, 2008

I would like to ask if anyone here that brews All Grain can tell me how my performance such as efficiency was in brewing this recipe below. It is for an Oatmeal Porter. This is my second All Grain brewed. The recipe did not give me any details on the efficiency or temperatures to mash at and volumes of water to use. I calculated and used all the volumes and temps based on my current knowledge. I hope I gave all the details that someone would need. The whole session went well completed total mash, boil cool and pitch in just under 5.5 hours. Thanks This recipe is the HBA Sweet Oatmeal Porter but I added in the Smoked Malt.

Recipe
8.0 lb. American 2-row
8 oz German Smoke Malt
4 oz. American crystal 120L
8 oz American black patent
1.0 lb. Flaked oats
0.5 oz Columbus 60 mins
0.5oz Centennial 2 mins
The recipe states the SG would be 1.048-1.054

Strike water heated 3.25 gallons to 168 degrees
I mashed at 154 degrees for 75 mins
Sparged with 170 degrees water 4 gallons
after vorlauf 3x gravity of first running 1.081
collected 7.0 gallons to boil kettle my gravity for this was 1.039 preboil
Boiled for 60 mins and had a SG of 1.050
all gravities were recorded at 60 degrees C

I pitched at 1.5L starter of Wyeast 1084 and fermentation began in less than 6 hours.

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ESB Hop Addition Times/Amounts

Saturday, March 22nd, 2008

So I’ll hopefully be brewing an ESB today (assuming my KG gets here). Originally the schedule was supposed to go like this:

1 oz magnum for 60 min
2 oz glacier for 5 min
2 oz glacier for 1 min

The glacier should actually be kent goldings so since I’ll actually have 2oz of KG (to replace the 4oz of glacier) how should the schedule go? Thanks! cheers.gif

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Slow Fermentation?

Saturday, March 22nd, 2008

I brewed a hefe on wednesday. Pitched one vial of WLP380 yeast at about 78 F (too high i know, but my wort chiller was out of commission and I had to pitch when i did).

My recipe was:

6lb German pilsner malt
6lb German wheat malt

1 oz Liberty

doughed in at 104 for 20 min, 140 for 20 min and 158 for 40 min. Boiled 1 hr. Took a OG reading while the wort was at 120 F. Using the conversion for hydrometer readings by at 120 F, I came up with an OG of about 1.046 (can anyone calculate my yield from this? I think i may have calculated wrong. I had 6.5 gal. of wort before boil)

It is fermenting now, however, it has been almost exactly 48 hrs since I pitched the yeast and I am only getting about 5 bubbles per minute in the airlock. The beer is not visably moving in the carboy; no swirling of any kind. This is about 1/2 inch of yeast on the bottom of the carboy and about 1 inch of foam/yeast on the top.

Anyone know if the fermentation should be stronger at this point? Or is this normal? Thanks guys.

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Beer for light fish?

Saturday, March 22nd, 2008

Posted: by Lecithin (19 hours ago)

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Sanitation

Saturday, March 22nd, 2008

Ok so we’re all wacked out about sanitation. Do I need to worry about the regulator? I sprayed starsan through the tube and boiled the stone. What about the regulator?

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Franco Belges Pilsen

Friday, March 21st, 2008

I have a sack of this Pilsen Malt on the way and would like to know how it compares to Weyermans or Durst? Also how is it with a single infusion mash? Would like to hear from someone who uses it in Belgian Ales etc.
Thanks,
Sqhead

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Spring 2008 Community Brew - Grain Bill

Friday, March 21st, 2008

Taking over the wheel from CJ. Initial ideas from this beer were thrown around here. In a nutshell, it has been decided that we will be building a beer around the T-58 dry yeast that has a spicy and Belgian-ish quality to it. Based on a timeline suggested by CJ we will look to brew this near mid-April to beginning of May.

Let’s get some specifics going so we can nail this one down.

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CBR 108: Southern Charm

Friday, March 21st, 2008

We do taste some IPA’s this week including 2 delicious one from down south. You would never know there was a hop shortage going on during this show. We also re-visited the Lazy Magnolia from Mississippi.

Beer:

Rankings:

  • Jeff 1. St. Arnold, 2. Lazy Magnolia, 3. Ballast Point, 4. Abita, 5. Alesmith, 6. Smuttynose
  • Greg 1. Ballast Point, 2. Abita, 3. Lazy Magnolia, 4. Alemsith, 5. St. Arnold, 6. Smuttynose

Extras

  • Preshow - Lazy Magnolia - Southern Pecan
  • Postshow - Kalamazoo n Boisenberry

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…from a Craigslist purchase. biggrin.gif I can’t wait.

Any lager brewing tips I should know?

Bill

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I always have made big starters for my beers. My theory was that lots of yeast plus lots of oxygen = a hotter fermentation, better attenuation, etc. Then I read Brew Like a Monk and read that some of the character that I love about Belgian beers is a result of those yeast being underpitched and building their cell count in the fermenting wort. Add to that I listen to the Jamil show and he reiterates this fact (actually I think it was his guest from White Labs). So I’m going to brew a Wit next weekend and I’m facing a crossroad. I think I want to underpitch this batch and see what happens. I just am nervous about gambling on a 12 gallon batch of beer. What say ye oh collective genious (sic) of the green interweb beer place.

Oh, and before any of you send me to the “optimal pitch” tables, I am aware of them. I am fine with that approach for lagers and clean American ales. I’m focused on Belgian yeasts and the art (practice?) of underpitching.

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Cheap cornies

Friday, March 21st, 2008

If anyone is interested, Adventures in Homebrewing, 23869 Van Born RD, Taylor, MI 48180, has used cornelius kegs for $19.95 each. I ordered two and shipping was cheap and fast. (I have no affiliation with them).

They have great customer service. One of the kegs I ordered had a warped/partially crushed liquid out tube that would not come out of the post for cleaning/o-ring replacement. When I contacted them about this, they promptly took care of it and me by sending out a replacement. NICE JOB! I ended up using a hacksaw to cut out the old dip tube, the keg works perfectly now.

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Beer and Pickles

Friday, March 21st, 2008

Posted: by Taelec (3 hours ago)

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If anybody is bored and doesn’t mind reading, tell me what you think of my brewing method described below. The main reason for doing a 4 gallon boil is so I don’t have to buy wort chillers and a big new brew pot. When I mash I only get 61% efficiency since I’m only collecting 4 gallons. I know I leave some fermentables behind but that’s the trade off.

Converting an All Grain recipe to my 4 gallon boil method

Recipe = American Pale Ale / starting gravity of 1.056

American 2 Row (potential = 1.036) 8 pounds
Vienna (potential = 1.036) 2 pounds
Crystal 10 (potential = 1.035) .5 pounds

Gravity Units for normal all grain full boil method
(potential)x(lb’s)x(efficiency)
American 2 Row 36 x 8 = 288 x 75% = 216
Vienna 36 x 2 = 72 x 75% = 54
Crystal 35 x .5 = 17.5 x 75% = 13

Total Gravity Units = 283 / 5 Gallons = 1.056

4 Gallon Boil method
I did some thinking and realized that I simply can’t mash the same grains and then top off with a little DME to get back to the right amount of GU’s. Doing that would throw off the recipe because I would end up using more base malts than what the recipe called for. So I do the following:

The first thing to do is tweak the amount of adjunct grain until get back to our required gravity units:
(potential)x(lb’s)x(efficiency)
Vienna 36 x 2 = 72 x 75% = 54 (goal)
Vienna 36 x 2 = 72 x 61% = 44 (abviously low)
Vienna 36 x 3 = 108 x 61% = 67 (too high)
Vienna 36 x 2.5 = 90 x 61% = 55 (perfect)

Do the same for the crystal
Crystal 35 x .75 = 26 x 61% = 16 ( a little high but it will do)

Now we need to figure out the 2 row gravity units, Originally we were using 10.5 lbs of grain, 8 of which was 2 row. We added some weight to the adjuct grain to keep our gravity units up. We need to subtract the total adjuct graint weight from the original weight, this will give us the amount of 2 row to use. This needs to be done so we stay at 10.5 lb’s of grain and 4 gallons of collected wort.
Vienna = 2.5
Crystal = .75
========
3.25

Total weight = 10.5
Adjunct weight = 3.25
========
7.25 (total amount of 2 row to use)

Now we can figure out the gravity units we’ll get from our American 2 Row
American 2 Row 36 x 7.25 = 288 x 61% = 159

Now lets total up the gravity units:
American 2 Row 36 x 7.25 = 288 x 61% = 159
Vienna 36 x 2.5 = 90 x 61% = 55
Crystal 35 x .75 = 26 x 61% = 16
=======
Total = 230

Subtract that from our original estimated gravity units
283 – 230 = 53

We need to add enough DME to get 53 gravity units so we hit our 283 goal. Since we know that DME has a potential of 44, all we need to do is divide the GU’s we need by 44 to give us the pounds of DME we need.
53 / 44 = 1.2 ( we could add 1 lb of DME to get us close enough, it’s not rocket science)

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Beer and some Chicken!

Friday, March 21st, 2008

Posted: by Taipans (5 hours ago)

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Kits and Kegging

Friday, March 21st, 2008

My wife did something nice, but it didn’t work out like she tought it would. Last year for my birthday, she got me a 6 month subscription for a beer of the month club. It was kind of crappy, so this year, she got me a 6 month beer kit of the month thing. No surprise, it wasn’t quite LHBS quality. My first two were a Rauchbier and a dunkel weisen. The kits have the liquid malt extract. I hate using that stuff. Both came with the danstar yeast, I think it was nottingham. Both also came with those pellet hops, which I think are kinda messy to use. Also, I have no clue as to the type of grain included, so I can’t make any other assumptions other than that they are probably just enough to get the color and taste to be stylistic I suppose. So here are my questions:

–Should I be more optimistic, or am I right to assume these kits are going to fall below my expectations? I guess I’m a LHBS fan for life.

–Is there anything I can do to spruce up the end results?

–Or Should I just make it as they are, keg them and give them a long time to get well aged/conditioned, and have a keg party to get my vessels back empty for my summer brewing habits?

As far as ingredients that don’t go anywhere, that are leftover from other brews, I have on hand: 1/2 oz Warrior whole Hops, 1/2 oz Vanguard whole hops, 1 package of suspect US05 (out of date), 1 package of suspect S-33, a slant of sweet mead yeast from a White labs vial, mason jar of S33 pulled from the cake, mason jar of us05 from the cake, 2 oz corriander, cherry beer flavoring, madagascar bourbon vanilla extract, pecan extract, black tar heroin, and…oh wait, I’m out of the black tar. Alright, so what do you think? Next month I get an IPA, so I gotta think about that too.

And finally, I am getting frustrated with kegging a little bit. I actually drink less beer now that I keg, since I only have room to have one beer showcased at a time. And my pepsi kegs loose pressure, and I havent even begun to recondition the coke kegs I just got. A 5 lb co2 keg lasts me about 3 or 4 kegs, because I keep having to repressurize my kegs. Its just a pain. Could anyone talk me thought this or offer some advice? I can’t buy a bigger beer fridge or deep freeze.

Charlie

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Trying to build a Kegerator

Friday, March 21st, 2008

I’ve seen the youtube videos… And I’ve seen the one from this brew board (that’s the route I’m taking). I’ll use 2×4s as an internal collar, and some 1×6s as an outer collar. I’m really struggling with the 2×4s… The ones I bought were about as straight as I could find, but they’re not quite square.

So, when I build the collar, and set it on the chest freezer, it doesn’t sit quite flush everywhere. How should I handle this? I was thinking putting a little liquid nails down on each of the 4 corners of the chest freezer, then put a serious about of silicone down around the rest of the perimeter, then squish it down with theh collar like a peanut butter sandwich.

Any advice appreciated! Thanks.

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What’s the deal with keg lube?

Friday, March 21st, 2008

I use this everytime I keg but I worry about how sanitary it is. What’s the deal? How does it stay sanitary after you’ve been digging around in there with your potentially dirty finger?

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Hop Availability Update

Friday, March 21st, 2008

Not much happened this week in the way of hop availability at the shops I am covering. A few dropped out, but none where you could not get them somewhere else.

I suppose no news is good news … except good news, which is also good news … but in any case …

All the details:http://www.brew365.com/hop_availability_chart.php

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New to starsan

Friday, March 21st, 2008

I finally broke down and followed everybody’s lead and bought me a big ol jug o starsan. I racked cerveza loco to secondary on a huge head of the starsan foam. So much that as the carboy filled it was pushing fowm out of the top. If this beer doesn’t suffer then I will never ever fear the foam!


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Tettnanger in a Fest Beer

Thursday, March 20th, 2008

Quick question — do Tettnanger hops give a kind of phenolic aroma to beer? Or do I have a Belgian yeast cross contamination in my fermenter?

I brewed a beer with White Labs 530 Abbey Ale yeast, cleaned the 10-gallon corny fermenter well, sanitized well, and a month or so later, brewed up the fest-type beer. The fest beer had Tettnanger and Hallertauer first wort hops as the only hop addition, fermented with White Labs 001 California Ale. When I transferred it yesterday, it had a spicy, almost clovey aroma to it. The spice didn’t really carry over into the taste, but I didn’t like the smell at all. The only thing that I can compare the smell to is a Belgian phenolic beer.

The corny fittings are being boiled now to make sure no more of the Belgian yeast is surviving, but I was just wondering if anyone else has noticed this with Tettnanger hops.

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no carbonation in bottles

Thursday, March 20th, 2008

On 2/21/08 I brewed a English IPA and all went as it should, in primary till 3/4/08 then racked to secondary.Then bottled it on 3/11/08. I put a couple in the fridge to chill the other day, I opened them tonight and they had no carbonation. What happened? Did I have it in the secondary to long and the there wasn’t enough yeast present to work with the priming sugar to carb up. The yeast I used was Wyeast #1275 Thames Valley Ale. Is there anything that can be done or do I dump the batch. Can I open the bottles and add a small amount of dry yeast to each and see what happens?

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Large Water filter

Thursday, March 20th, 2008

I purchased one of these Whirpool entire house water filters:

http://www.whirlpool.com/catalog/product.j…ductId=487#tabs

They haev a 3/4 inch female connector on each side. I was able to find a barb connector and use some hose on the OUT portion of the filter, however, I cannont find connectors/hose to hook up the WATER IN side from my sink, or from my garden hose faucet.

anyone using one of these or something similar?

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First. I did search. Wayyyy to many hits to seach this detail. shock.gif

I have been brewing 8 years and make alot of Lagers.
Often I have read that when ready to Lager lower temps slowly by 2 or 5 degrees until reaching your lager temps.

Can anyone tell me why this may be needed?
I mean, after primary and then D rest its at say 67′F
by then the yeast is finished. What could be wrong with just crashing it to lager temps and let the yeast settle out?
Probably nothing right? I mean thats what I do and I have fine results. But why do I read that so often?

Thanks

Yours with a brew…………………..

C.B

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