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I am working on a yuengling lager clone for a good friend from VA, but I have not ever lagered a beer, nor do i have all of the proper type equiptment.
Any one have a rig that i might be able to duplicate so i can make this batch?
thanks for any advice!
I’m currently brewing my 6th beer the “fill in the hop blonde” (because I’m swamped this weekend) and while I’m waiting for my preboiled water to boil I thought I’d throw out some questions that I’ve penciled into my brew binder over the past few beers:
-I’ve used a smack pack for yeast on all my beers and and had great success, what’s the advantages of making starters or saving cakes from other brews?
-I’ve been watching all the overflowing bottles threads but none answered my question. My last beer would spray when I opened it after sitting in the fridge for 3 hours, but not after 24 hours. After 24 it poured great with a good full head…is that from bottling too soon? It didn’t seem infected at all…
-I’ve heard light is bad for beer, so I have big black plastic bags over my glass carboys because they’re in my room where the light’s frequently on, is that over kill?
-I’ve only done extract brews because of money so far, but when I leap into AG is a bigger brew pot necessary? I have a 5 gallon. Also, what’s the benefits of different mash tuns, I’m looking at either a stand up, football game gatorade cooler looking thing, or a elongated sit on the ground for holding ice and beer sort..
Thanks in advance for the help! And incase you’re curious I’m adding 3/4 oz centennial at 60min and 1/5 oz my hood at 10min. any suggestions on what I should dry hop with? (that My LHBS will have? ahahaha)
I’m brewing an Imperial stout next and was thinking of using the second runnings to make a few gallons of a lower gravity beer. What style of beer would you suggest and what hop schedules etc.? thanks for any help
I’m traveling the South this summer, and driving back to Lawrence, KS from Orlando, FL.
But it’s a secret mission to find beers I can’t get in Kansas.
What beers should I seek out, and what liquor stores have the best selection?
Thanks in advance.
I’m thinking of brewing a wit, instead of any hops using dandelion flowers with the green part (not the stem) I read somewhere that you would use 3 gallons for a 5 gallon wine, since I have a very big yard, I think I’ll go with that, anyone ever try this?
So normally I secondary in cornys. Before I transfer I purger the tank with co2. This time I forgot, and then when I dry hopped I totally spaced out and forgot to purge the excess o2 off of the top of the beer. When I dry hopped I weighed the bag down with some stainless nuts, but they weren’t enought to sink the bag, so to add insult to injury I flipped the keg over and then back to see if the bag would sink when it was soaked. So I’m thinking that I screwed up pretty bad. Also this was Denny’s Rye IPA which I was really looking forward too. So can any one tell me what to expect. Is the beer going to go stale right away, or will it be ok for a couple weeks after secondary?
I marked on my hop rope yesterday. Today, they have grown another inch. I knew they grew fast but, Daymn!
I formulated a recipe for a Wit, but I haven’t gotten all the ingredients that I originally wanted.
The recipe is an All Grain that assumes a 65% efficiency
6 Pounds Wheat Malt
5.5 Pounds Pils Malt
0.5 Pound Vienna Malt
Mashed at 150 for 60 min with 0.5 pounds of rice hull insurance
Batch Sparge
90 Min Boil
3/8 oz Amarillo Hops for 60 min for 14 IBU
1 oz crushed coriander (Missing) for 10 min
0.5 oz Sweet Orange Peel (Missing) for 10 min
Target OG: 1.052
Ferment with Safale/Fermentis T-58
I can’t make it to the LHBS, but a grocery store should have the coriander at least and maybe the orange peel.
Since I don’t have the spices, should I turn this into an American Wheat by eliminating the spices and fermenting with Safale 05? Or will the T58 provide the belgiany spiciness and estery flavors without the actual spice.
I’m having a crisis of confidence because my brewing window and free-time window is very tight today.
I’m not going to be taking this to any competition, it’s just for personal enjoyment.
I looking to brew a split batch of a stout recipe this weekend. What I want to do is use some delicious espresso beans in one primary and a mix of molasses and brown sugar in the other. Normally I would add the brown sugar and molasses at the end of the boil and then transfer to the primary.
My question is this… since I want to keep these flavors different can I boil up a quart or water and add my molasses and brown sugar to that let it mix and cook for a bot 5 minutes, cool and then add to the primary? Would this still work???
Also I currently have an IPA on with dry US-05 yeast in progress and I want to brew a stout this coming weekend. I normally wouldn’t use US-05 or 1056 for my stouts but for the sake of needed beer and a health available yeast cake… would this be OK?
So what do you have brewing this weekend…
Dana
Posted: by snpub540 (13 hours ago)
So the RyePA will come off the yeast in another 10 days or so…
What else is this yeast good for?
so heres the deal
on Saturday i plan on making my kolsh and just realized i got a few ingredients laying around so heres the what i got laying around extra and am thinking of brewing another batch just to stave off the extra ingredients
YEASTS
safale us-04
safale us-05
muntons yeast (generic i suppose)
FERMENTABLES
2lbs American 2 row
4lbs of Amber DME
.5lb of Chocolate Malt
.5lb of roasted barley
1lb of Honey
Hops
1.5lb Bravo
4oz Cascade
2oz Mt. Hood
1.5oz Fuggle
.5oz Perle
1oz Vanguard
2.5oz Magnum
1.5oz Sazz
1.5oz Magnum
1oz Tettnagger
so what can I make? seems more like its gonna be a porter more than anything.
I know it might have a low OG give me your best ideas for this extra beer.
Carlos
(p.s. they will be brewed back to back maybe the same day or maybe one on Sunday)
I have only done about three AG batches and I have a question.
I understand finding out your strike water temp by using a program like Promash or Beersmith etc. What I dont understand is sparge water amounts.
If I were to add X amount of water for my mash for one hour… drain that into my brew pot.
Then when I want to sparge, could I just add an estimated amount of water untill I get enough for my boil?
Example: I have #12 of grain for 5 gallon batch, Promash says to use 3.5 gallons of water for mash and rest at 152.. Then couldnt I fly sparge until I get my ~6.5 gallons in my boil pot and start boiling?
Is the reason you use the software so that you know exactly how much water based on a 60 minute boil will give you X SG? I guess I dont understand the exact amounts for the water used in sparging and/or mashing.
Hope that makes sense
I finally got all the parts together for my electric boil kettle! I used a “flat” storage container (easy to water-proof) for my “main” electric box which houses a sub-panel, the SSR’s, and plugs for the pots. I have another smaller plastic container for my PID’s and pump switches. It didn’t look as ghetto in my head, but it does look very hacky, but it seems to be splash proof.
I averaged about 6 degrees rise per minute using a 4500W element. I may do better when I insulate the pot.
I still need to build my HLT, but it will basically be a clone of the BK. I may add a sight glass to each.
Also need to get my pumps hooked up. I’ll post some pics when I get a chance.
Posted: by juzy (21 hours ago)
Has anyone ever used an air compressor to transfer from between vessels ex: HLT–>MLT–>BK?
JD
As many N.C. Brewers probably know, Red Oak Brewery had a sign up on I-85 saying - Future Home of Red Oak Brewery (had been there for easily 5 years). Well it has probably been a year (or more) since I’ve been up 85, but I saw this weekend that the brewery has actually been built.
I’ve checked out their website, but all I can find is “By the summer of 2007 Red Oak was ready to open the nation’s most modern computerized brewing facility” They do say tours are Tuesdays at 3…….
Is it actually open? Anyone been there?
If I make a beer that should be conditioned for a few months before drinking, can I place it in a corney and put in the basement at 60-65F and be OK?
Should I carb it at all?
Pull the pressure release valve ever?
Just want to make sure I can do this with ales that need conditioning.
Thanks.
I made a 5 gallon lager this past weekend, chilled to about 50F, added a very cold starter measuring about 1 cup of thick slurry, aerated well (long drop from CFC to fermenter + aerated for 5 mins with mash paddle), and then put in my lagering box. The lagering box itself gets to around 52F, but I put 2 frozen 2 liter pop bottles on top of the fermenter…so the chamber is measuring about 37-38 now. I’m fermenting colder to try to minimize yeast flavors. The beer is a CAP.
My question is this: since I am used to fermenting lagers around 48-50F, is there anything I should be aware of when fermenting this cold? I realize it will take longer, and I’m not afraid of letting it stay in the primary for 4-6 weeks. The goal is to go to keg after primary fermentation is done.
Thanks.
-joe
This past weekend we did a test run on our Big Brew system. We did a 45 gal batch of wheat beer. 111# of grain and plenty of room left in the mashtun. Here are a few pics, the biggest issue was chilling.
The setup
Grain to be used:
Doughing in
Filling the Kettle:
Boiling:
Cool Pic:
Finished product:
All in all a good long day. May batch sparge next time to save a bit of time but not bad.
A recent brew fermented to have a lot of left over sweetness using s04 and VERY low fermentation temps has a hint of double bubble in it. Will this decrease with aging or is now a “feature” of this beer? (its already cleared, carbed and kegged)
If it will diminish I will put it in the back of the fridge and let it sit, otherwise I will drink it first and get it out of the way of better beers to come.
(its not that bad, I just notice it a bit)
Posted: by bluegrassbrew (12 hours ago)
Posted: by Ineedabeerhere (15 hours ago)
Posted: by Donnie2112 (17 hours ago)
Posted: by Rzzzzz (19 hours ago)
Anybody out there ever play around with priming solutions (for bottling)? I’ve always just the “standard” corn sugar, but read that DME provided a small-bubble head that some people liked, while corn sugar was the large-bubble head vehicle. Might be fun to mix the two or experiment. Any ideas?
Has anyone here ever got on an airplane with their homebrew? I’m obviously afraid to put it in my luggage and check it as it might get smashed.. id rather just take it on. Since it is sealed, is there any way around it?
Posted: by CH3CH2OH (37 minutes ago)
Okay, who ain’t telling the truth here? I am seriously considering a conical fermenter, but I am confused by discrepancies in the manufacturer’s web pages.
Blichmann’s page compares their conicals against B3’s (and plastic) here:
http://www.blichmannengineering.com/Fermen…to%20Others.htm
But it is 90% contradicted on B3’s site here:
http://morebeer.com/search/102273
So what’s the real story? I like the idea of having the self-cooled conicals and not using up fridge space…
Cheers,
Charlie
