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Some old favorites are revisited and some new challengers emerge as we do a show back-to-back.
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The New York Times online recently posted an interview with Gonzo artist and Flying Dog label creator Ralph Steadman. Freakonomics author Stephen J. Dubner selected questions for the interview that readers had submitted online. To listen to Ralph’s candid answers follow this link to the New York Times site.
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Not to clutter the board or anything with newbie talk, but yesterday i brewed up a draught and my opinion is that everything went well. However this morning when i woke up i checked on it in the closet and it actually filled up the airlock and had some spillage over outside the container….my question for you guys, is it alright, over fermenting, or what? i’d prefer this one to actually turn out decent so my girlfriend will let me start doing this more often!
I did two beers a while ago and dry hopped them both:
Pale Ale: 1oz Cascade pellets, 1 month dry hopping.
Pilsener: 1oz Saaz pellets, 1 month dry hopping.
This was my first attempt at dry hopping, and I was looking for some nice hop aroma. What I got was a tiny bit of hop aroma, and a ton of bitterness (which is contrary to everything I’ve read about dry hopping). I will note that the when the sunlight caught the top a glass of pilsener just right, there was an oil slick sitting on top.
What happened? Why were the beers so bitter?
Night Owl Brewery-Burr Pale Ale #3
10-A American Pale Ale
Size: 5.0 gal
Efficiency: 75.0%
Attenuation: 75.0%
Calories: 192.81 per 12 fl oz
Original Gravity: 1.058 (1.045 - 1.060)
|=====================#==========|
Terminal Gravity: 1.014 (1.010 - 1.015)
|======================#=========|
Color: 9.6 (5.0 - 14.0)
|================#===============|
Alcohol: 5.7% (4.5% - 6.0%)
|====================#===========|
Bitterness: 43.96 (30.0 - 45.0)
|======================#=========|
Ingredients:
10 lbs Standard 2-Row
.75 lbs 2-Row Caramel Malt 40L
.55 oz Chinook (13.0%) - added during boil, boiled 60 min
.25 oz Amarillo (8.5%) - added during boil, boiled 30 min
.75 oz Amarillo (8.5%) - added during boil, boiled 15 min
1 tsp 5.2 pH Stabilizer - added during mash
1 tsp Wyeast Nutrient - added during boil, boiled 10 min
1 tsp Irish Moss - added during boil, boiled 15 min
1.75 oz WYeast 1056 American Ale
Schedule:
Ambient Air: 70.0 °F
Source Water: 60.0 °F
Elevation: 0.0 ft
00:33:00 Mash In - Liquor: 3.36 gal; Strike: 162.3 °F; Target: 150.0 °F
01:33:00 Saccharification Rest - Rest: 60.0 min; Final: 145.0 °F
01:43:00 Mash Out - Heat: 10.0 min; Target: 168.0 °F
02:28:00 Sparge - Sparge: 3.62 gal sparge @ 170.0 °F, 5.72 gal collected, 45.0 min; Total Runoff: 5.86 gal
Results generated by BeerTools Pro 1.0.29
anything I should change?
I am taking a poll to gather some data for an article. The topic here is whether you rack to another fermentation vessel when your beer is at or near its terminal gravity.
For the sake of simplicity, assume this is your standard, single-strength Ale of around a 1.050 starting gravity.
If you have some strong thought one way or the other on this, I would also like to hear your opinion.
Thanks
Has anyone used the 1275 yeast? I picked up some thinking I was going to make an ESB or some UK type ale. But now I am thinking that I may be able to make an ESB and then repitch into a barleywine for December/Jan drinking. Anyone ever use this strain?
Posted: by dinkloyd (20 hours ago)
My boss just informed me that he wants to fill up a bunch of whiskey barrels that we just obtained with my imperial stout.
Woot.
This means my first “mine” brew at SNBC will be in a couple of weeks. The specialty grain got ordered today!!
Something like 40-50 barrels in the pilot brewery.
BrewBasser
Posted: by duchessedubourg (22 hours ago)
Anyone have any experience dry hopping in their keg? do the hops get stuck in the system and will it have off flavors if it sits too long? all suggestions and guidence is welcome
I’ve decided that despite the high quality and superior pour of black plastic picnic taps it’s time to upgrade to something more presentable. The all stainless Vent-matics appear to be a thing of the past but the gold plated and 2-tone’s can still be had. I’m building a collar for my chest freezer where these taps will be mounted. Eventually once I can build a real bar I already have two 4″ 3 tap micromatic brass towers I’d like to use. I’m wondering if anybody out there has the 2 tone ventmatics and how they like the looks on either their chest freezer or brass tower. Honestly I think the two tones look pretty nice but I’m wondering how they’d look on a brass tower. If anybody’s done this before I’d love to see a picture or two before I sink the cash into 4-6 of these. Thanks!
I’ve decided that despite the high quality and superior pour of black plastic picnic taps it’s time to upgrade to something more presentable. The all stainless Vent-matics appear to be a thing of the past but the gold plated and 2-tone’s can still be had. I’m building a collar for my chest freezer where these taps will be mounted. Eventually once I can build a real bar I already have two 4″ 3 tap micromatic brass towers I’d like to use. I’m wondering if anybody out there has the 2 tone ventmatics and how they like the looks on either their chest freezer or brass tower. Honestly I think the two tones look pretty nice but I’m wondering how they’d look on a brass tower. If anybody’s done this before I’d love to see a picture or two before I sink the cash into 4-6 of these. Thanks!
Friday my pal Ed and I made an apa to kick off the brewery. I had to take a hiatus since I remodeled my kitchen the last 8 months. It went really well and it felt great to make beer once again. Just wanted to share what I did on the 2nd day of the NHC since I could not go this year. Had to add pics of the brew house dogs…
Ok..finally got the guts to do this on saturday. Messed up the entire kitchen..and it took longer than I thought it would. I finally get to the end, pitch my yeast and cap the stainless fermenter. It has an airlock too. Oh, my OG was 1.06 and the kit said it was supposed to be like 1.04..is that bad? I must be so old..I have been doing my own recipes and do not have OG readings..etc. Anyway, about 2 hours later the airlock is bubbling away..which I thought was a great sign. Then yesterday it sounded more like coffee perculating than bubbles..like a steady stream of air. You could even feel the air coming out of the top. Now today it had really let up..is that good?
Any “Green Board” members in town for business this week ?
I’m in town for a conference at the Manchester Grand Hyatt, and thinking of hitting the new Toronado bar one night (prob Wednesday).
PM me.
Doc
so at risk of beating a dead horse, i was hoping some one could cover the method for using gelatin or other simple means of clairifying a beer.
This is probly listed already and a simple search would point me to where i need to be, but im just not sure what to search…
thanks
I’ve been suffering from poor efficiencies so trying to fix that I’ve been messing with my Barley Crusher’s gap.
I’ve tried to tighten the gap but I have a horrible time with the thing. One side works fine. On the other I’ll loosen the set screw and then adjust the gap down a little using a feeler gauge but when I tighten the set screw back it tightens the gap even more. And I’m not talking a little, so much that I can’t get the feeler gauge out, and so tight that grain won’t even go through.
I finally got it to a gap by “eyeball” that I’ve been using (and crushing the grains twice).
My initial crush cracks the grains but <50% of the grain separates from the husk. The second time through shreds the husks more and makes more flour but a lot of the grain still doesn’t separate from the husks.
Any suggestions?
Here’s what I’m thinking about putting together tomorrow, but I’m not sure about the hops. I know I don’t want a hoppy Weizen what-so-ever but I think that using the Hallertauer I want at 60min and .75oz may not be enough??? or maybe added at the wrong time? it puts me in at about 10 IBUs, but … i don’t know. Maybe some Saaz somewhere?
6.5 lb Wheat Liquid Malt Extract
.75 oz Hallertauer (60min)
.5 oz sweet orange zest (flameout)
.5 oz bitter orange zest (flameout)
.5 oz chamomile (flameout)
.5 oz corander (flameout)
wyest 3068
are the spices balanced ok as well? I have never used spices in a beer, but from the books I’ve read on weizens these are the typical ones
I didn’t. I had high hopes for one beer in particular, but nothing this year. I noticed Jamil had beer go forward in almost every catagory, but nothing for the second round. I can only assume he didn’t enter.
I have a recipe for an IPA that I loved. I thought it was a very good beer. The only change I want to make to it is that I’d like a little bit more hop flavor (all Simcoe). So my first inclination was add a bit more hops at 15 minutes or less. The second idea i thought of was to try hop bursting.
My real question though is what changes would I notice in my beer by removing my 60min addition and adding more late hops to get roughly the same IBUs? In the hop bursted version of the recipe, i’d be using another ounce of hops (4oz total) over the original version. I’m sure I’d get more flavor, but what about the bitterness? I know the IBUs are the same, but there has to be some practical flavor difference in the two bittering methods.
Any one have experience with the same grain bill and hop bursting versus traditional hopping? Would it essentially “change the beer” from what it was/is? Thanks.
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/products/Pr…spx?ProdID=7739
good deal?
going to be getting into kegging very shortly.
I could go the Ebay route and get these things cheaper, but I figured to get my things from a reputable dealer IE Midwest or NB just in case something happens it will most likely be covered.
what say ye?
I thought I has seen a post about these http://zjdayu.en.alibaba.com/product/20005…ation_tank.html but now I cannot find it.
Does anyone know anything about these?
I just sent them an email request for pricing. They look nice in the photos but shipping to US is probably the deal killer
There are so many threads that mention a recipe out of this boor or off of the podcast I thought that one thread that listed the recipes people have brewed and the results would be nice. Since the book Brewing Classic Styles is copy written, please refrain from posting the actual recipes. Since Jamil and John have done so much for the homebrewers in the world they deserve to make all the money off of their book that they can
Post the title of the recipe brewed and list any subs you made without posting the recipe, and whether or not you brewed it extract, partial mash, or all-grain.
I just tapped a keg of the Expate Export (all-grain) and in a panic I pitched a pack of US-05 after a 24 hour lag time with the saf-lager 34/70. This beer rocks either way. I believe the 34/70 fermented it because it is super lager smooth.
The Harold is Wiezen Hefewiezen (all-grain) was brewed to the letter in the book and the keg blew empty in two weeks. It was just me drinking it, the wife drank 2 glasses.
I have brewed many others that have no gotten tapped yet, so I will post whe I do. 
I have not had great effencies lately and am looking at new techniques. My best way thus far has been a mash out and two equal sparges…..
Thanks,
Bill
Posted: by roguekid (2 hours ago)
Ok I have a question to see if I am correct in idenifying this smell or if this is something else. I have a 10 cuft chest freezer that I use to lager my beers. My friend is using it to ferment an Imperial Pilsner. He pitched a yeast cake of a lager yeast not sure what type but its been fermenting around 51 degrees for a week now. I know that a lot of lager yeasts put out sulfur and all but if you bend over and get your nose close to the airlock you can whiff a very noxious order, sorta makes you wanna cough. Actually you can sense it the lower you bend down in the freezer close to the airlock or not. I am just curious is this sulfur gas or something else that is given off during lager fermentations. I had lagered a Bo Pils back in Jan 08 and it had the same effect. I even noticed a bit of it from Wyeast 2112 Cal Lager yeast. Just wanted to see what anyone thought or had some insight. Of course the freezer is closed and only opened time to time so there is no true venting going on too.
Happy Brewing
Mike
The past year of brewing for me has been MALTY! I’ve been getting to the point where if I can even taste american hops I think to myself “bah, unbalanced”. Really I’ve just been turning into a malt snob. So here we go, my first hop burst ale. All of these ingredients I already have in stock, so any changes would preferably be in the arrangement of the recipe and not include spending 15 bucks on some different varieties of hops.
I’ve tasted other hopburst homebrews, but unfortunately they started bursting in the 30min range and were all too bitter (in fact I think they were getting 60+ IBU’s from the 30min additions alone). So here’s my idea.
A ProMash Recipe Report
Recipe Specifics
—————-
Batch Size (Gal): 6.00 Wort Size (Gal): 7.50
Total Grain (Lbs): 14.75
Anticipated OG: 1.062 Plato: 15.18
Anticipated SRM: 7.4
Anticipated IBU: 49.7
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70 %
Wort Boil Time: 75 Minutes
Grain/Extract/Sugar
% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
—————————————————————————–
88.1 13.00 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row) America 1.036 2
5.1 0.75 lbs. Crystal 40L America 1.034 40
6.8 1.00 lbs. Munich Malt Germany 1.037 8
Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.
Hops
Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
—————————————————————————–
0.25 oz. Columbus Whole 12.00 8.8 60 min.
1.00 oz. Columbus Pellet 14.00 16.4 10 min.
0.30 oz. Glacier Pellet 6.00 2.1 10 min.
1.30 oz. Columbus Pellet 12.00 15.2 8 min.
1.00 oz. Glacier Pellet 6.00 3.9 5 min.
1.00 oz. Simcoe Pellet 12.00 3.3 2 min.
1.00 oz. Amarillo Gold Pellet 7.00 0.0 0 min.
0.75 oz. Columbus Whole 12.00 0.0 0 min.
Yeast
—–
WYeast 1056 Amercan Ale/Chico
Was able to pick up a SubZero 501R all fridge for $100 off craigslist, the people were in dire urgenct to get rid of it, they scored a new one cheap. Had to jump on it. The front face where you would install cabinet laminate or stainless (it is an in wall unit) was bare so I slid some dry-erase board in. This now allows me to fit a comfortable 6 kegs (one being a sanke) and CO2-nitro tanks inside.
Old kegerator
New one
Inside
First let me state that I’ve searched Brewboard as well as GOOGLE for two-vessel brewery and a whole slew of other things I could think of, so if this has been discussed before please point me in the right direction!
Ok, a fellow homebrewing friend of mine came to me at our last club meeting with an idea to build a two-vessel system. To sum it up, it would basically just be 2 converted half barrels, or maybe a half barrel and a cooler, and obviously a pump.
The idea is the HLT also eventually becomes the boil kettle. So you heat your strike water and pump it to the mash tun. Mash as usual.
Then when it is time to sparge you just continuously recirculate water between the mash tun and HLT. Eventually the gravity of wort between the 2 vessels becomes equal with all the recirculating. So I guess you sparge until you’re at the preboil gravity you expect.
When sparge is over, finish draining everything from the mash tun to what was the HLT (careful not to pump too long and extract tannins and all that). The HLT is now full of wort and becomes the boil vessel.
Anyone done this? Pros/cons of doing so?
