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Archive for July, 2008

Hydrometer Sinking! Please Help!

Monday, July 21st, 2008

Hey everybody,

I just began brewing my first 3 batches. All 3 of them are in primary fermenters right now, and 2 of them have had fermentation locks on for a couple of days. I did not take any original specific gravity readings because im really not concerned about the alcohol content of my beer. I had planned on only using the hydrometer to determine when I should bottle. Yesterday I tried to take my first hydrometer readings on the two batches with locks. I sanitized the turkey baster, hydrometer, and hydrometer tube each for each reading. For both readings, I filled the test tube about 3/4 of the way full with beer. To my dismay, on both readings, the hydrometer DID NOT FLOAT at all. Did i do something wrong with my beer? I realize that Charlie P would tell me to “relax. have a homebrew.” BUT I CANT RELAX, AND I CANT HAVE A HOMEBREW until I at least make one batch correctly.

Also, I tested the hydrometer in water, and got a perfect 1.00 reading.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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piraat belgian ale

Monday, July 21st, 2008

I really enjoy Piraat belgian ale and would love to take a crack at brewing this one. Does anyone on the ‘Board have any knowledge of how this beer is brewed? hehe.gif

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Wooden Sculpture

Monday, July 21st, 2008

To start, I know stainless is best. The problem is, the trouble and cost to make a stainless sculpture puts it in “someday” status and I need a horizontal setup now. Plus, what better way to learn what I want in a sculpture. This might be the motivation I need to figure out the stainless route.

My dad and I collaborated and spent two full days putting this together. In total it cost $250 for the wood, re-bar, and electric. I’ve been testing it and I’ve found some easy ways to keep it dry, but I still need to weather coat this thing. Any suggestions for treating wood to be brew-proof?

We built the top out of 2×6 and re-bar. It was pretty tricky to get it all square and required 2 clamps and 4 hands.

The frame is complete and on legs. We used some really nice bolts that will make it easy to take one side off to replace re-bar if we need to (or even replace them with stainless).

Here are some fun fittings we had to make. Had to figure out how to cut into the top of the legs to leave a block of wood behind to slide the frame on. This pic also shows the 1/2″ holes we had to cram the re-bar into.

The lower frame and casters are attached. The lower frame will hold the pumps and electrical, and the burner.

The electric is mostly installed and the lower frame now had a skeleton for support. The skeleton will be covered with plywood. The burner(s) will eventually be mounted but for now it’s pretty convenient to move the turkey fryer across the sculpture to where it’s needed.

A topside view of the electrical mounting to the march pump.

Here’s a cool view of the pump housing. It’s all rigged for a 2nd pump but I haven’t bought one yet. Both are controlled by a waterproof switch you can see on the gray box on the left side of the housing. Having the switch next to the pump makes it very convenient.

On the right-hand side of the sculpture there is a switch controlled outlet for the recirculating IC.

The left side of the sculpture, the whole thing gets plugged in through a single extension cord.

The plywood protecting the pumps and holding the burner can slide in and out. I’ve noticed it’s the only piece that gets water/wort splashed on it. I can either replace it occasionally or seal it, or both.

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Heating Wort While Sparging

Monday, July 21st, 2008

In this thread someone had mentioned heating up the wort while they are batch sparging. I was wondering if there is anything wrong with this from multiple perspectives.

First, will the hot break be affected at all, since all of the proteins theoretically will not be in the BK as it is approaching hot break temperature?

Second, are there efficiency issues with this method, as you will be adding colder wort (the sparged wort) as the wort is the BK is getting hotter?

I’m looking to be more efficient time-wise on brew day and am wondering if this is a viable option.

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Monday Evening Brew

Monday, July 21st, 2008

Finally getting around to my American Wheat and first run of the new chiller on an actual batch:


70% Wheat:


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1554 clone

Monday, July 21st, 2008

Looking for a 1554 Clone that has actually worked for someone. I’ve read here and there of recipes, but none that have hit the nail on the head. Oh yeah, partial mash guy here ……….so far

Secondary. Flat Tire
Bottled. Belgian Tripel, Creme Stout,Old Castle II

“Too much of everything is just enough” GD

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75 minute boil

Monday, July 21st, 2008

I’ve always used 60min boils and since I’ve been doing all grain, I have been missing my SG by a few points every time. I was wondering if I stepped the boil up to 75 mins, would that allow a little more liquid to boil off and hit my gravity more accurately? I understand this would be a trade off with hitting the full 5 gallons but in theory this is correct right? Just looking for some helpful advice.

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CPBF

Monday, July 21st, 2008

All - looking to purchase a CPBF or beergun. I was looking at HBA’s CPBF (Link) and was wondering if anyone has anything (pro or con) to say about it. The reviews posted in the product review area are pretty minimal.

Thanks,

Norm

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Hop Rhizomes

Monday, July 21st, 2008

I know this is late in the season:
Will Hops ONLY grow from rhizomes, or is this just the “best way” to get them started.

Can you plant some hop starts late in the seaons, and have them still root for next year?

Thank you.

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Drying Hops

Monday, July 21st, 2008

Any worries about drying hops outdoors? I thought about setting up my screen inside our screened porch and using the ceiling fan to dry the hops. It is a bit humid in Va. Is that a concern if I dry them outside? Best to do it inside?

Thoughts/feedback?

Getting ready to pick some Cascades (hopefully tonight).

Bill

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Home Brew Competiton

Monday, July 21st, 2008

Just looking for some feedback from the members. What is the most you will pay to enter a homebrew competition? I have one in my area, first time they are running this competition and the entry is $150.00! I think that’s an insane amount of money to enter a competition and just wonder if the prizes really garner that much money.

First prize is $1,500, 20 cases of your beer they brew and assist brewing a 20bbl batch or your recipe
Second is $500.00
People Choice gets you $1000.00

I am happy to see a new contest around here but I am a little disappointed in the cost. Please, do not take this as bashing the company putting the contest on. I am just curious what others think and if the prizes are worth the entry fee.

Thank you

Mike

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Pairing suggestions?

Monday, July 21st, 2008

Posted: by NCBeernut (17 hours ago)

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My beer won’t carb! Please help.

Sunday, July 20th, 2008

Ok, so I’ve been trying to remain as patient as possible, but my beer has been bottled for almost 2 months now, and it won’t carb. It was a high gravity beer that sat in primary and secondary for a total of 4-5 months. There is a very very slight notice of carbonation, but hardly anything there. Did all the yeast settle out? Am I totally screwed? I’ve got 6L TAD bottle, and probably 24 12oz bottles that are sitting there doing nothing. They have been stored in a closet that stays around 70 degrees.

Anyone have any tips or suggestions for me?

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Hi
I am on my second AG batch and although I really enjoy it..I have found it is taking me around 8 hours total time. (Wish there were some guys in my area to make it more enjoyable/ helping me drink while creating) Its just me and the wife helps. SO my question is..I have heard of overnight mashing and wondered what the disadvantages and advantages are to that.
Oh, and another quick quesion..what is the boil time for the AG batches. I read in the mash tun booklet around 90min..this recipe (breakfast stout) says 60min.

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Been gone a long time I need some help

Sunday, July 20th, 2008

the refrigerator I kept my beer in lost power in Nov.
The Belg. Wit was properly carbonated in the 5 gal keg before this occured and has been sitting there all this time.
after getting a new ref. to store my beer I was planning on dumping the keg and starting over but when i went to release the pressure I found the keg fully charged and the gasses released smelled great.
Do you think this beer would be ok to drink after all this time sitting in the heat ? or should i just dump it ?

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Brew Rig Plumbing

Sunday, July 20th, 2008

Putting a poll out to find out what every one uses when transferring their wort or circulating on their rigs. It’s a basics question but I figure it would be interesting to see some of he responces.
Thanks

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brewing a hefe today and..

Sunday, July 20th, 2008

So I will be brewing a hefe today and I have two hops to choose from. I know the hops are a very small part of this beer but I have
Mt.Hood 4.7% AA or Hallertau Select 1.5%AA

Is one gonna be better than the other? I was thinking either 1oz of the Mt.Hood or 2oz of the Hallertau at 60min.

Opinions…

Cheers

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Kegerator at a Tag sale!

Sunday, July 20th, 2008

Did a quick U-turn when I saw this, its only 2 years old. Got 2 extra CO2 tanks, single gauge regulator, (I already have a 2 gauge reg.) an extra tower witha faucet and a drip tray along with some odds and ends) she was asking $125 my wife asked her if she’d take $75 after awhile she said sure..(I’m not good at haggling at tagsales)

For enlarged pic you can just click on the Rockefeller Brewery tag below, it’s the last 3 pics on that site.

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Sunday morning.

Sunday, July 20th, 2008

7:35 am and I’m a half hour into my mash for a Blonde ale. While the beer is brewing I figure I’ll throw a couple racks of BBs on the WSM. About the time I’m done brewing and cleaned up, the ribs should be done. I’ll put some beans on and fry up some taters for sides.

Then it’s off to the local dirt track for some “car fights”.

More pics to follow smile.gif

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Walk in cooler

Sunday, July 20th, 2008

Here is the situation: I just bought a house with a basement, I generally do 10g all grain batches, I also do wines, ciders, and meads, I do everything in kegs (beergun if I need to bottle), and recently doubled my keg inventory to a total of a bit over 70 kegs (bought 36 kegs for 80 dollars). I currently have two temp controlled chest freezers and a 6-tap kegerator, giving me a total of 27 kegs I can keep in temperature controlled cold storage. Currently, about 24 of those spots are taken, so I am quickly running out of space.

Originally I was thinking of just getting more chest freezers, but then I am looking at another three large chest freezers plus the temp controllers, that would put me at six chest freezers total. This is too many, and not very economical in my mind. This is when I started thinking of converting the storage area into a walk in cooler. I don’t know the dimensions of the top of my head, but it is plenty large enough to hold all that I want currently.

Here is my problem, I have no experience working with air conditioners or fully insulating a room for cooling and protecting from condensation.

I have done some research, and there doesn’t seem too be too much information in one place. I found a thread by blktre from 2006 (the pictures have been taken down though), and an assortment of advice from some other threads, and I am just looking for more information so that I can build something that won’t be a nightmare.

I like how blktre has two zones, and I plan on doing something similar. I can actually add another section to the storage area that will go into the garage area. I think I will drop down the ceiling for some high R-value attic insulation for the ceiling, in addition to some foam board insulation. I was also thinking of doing this to the sides - putting in high R-value wall insulation, in addition to foam board for the sides. For the floor, I am not sure of the best way to insulate since I will be walking on it, and placing kegs and fermenters on it, so it also needs to be strong.

I would appreciate any advice at all on this project, and any indication of a realistic budget for what I am doing (I know it depends on the size of the cooler I want to build).

So here are some questions:

What kind of material do I get for a moisture barrier (on the warm side, from what I’ve read, correct?), is it just plastic sheeting? How can it be mounted? If I put staples or nails into it, will that destroy the barrier?

Where can I get the good foam board? I remember reading that what is sold at home depot/lowes is the low grade stuff, and isn’t a very high R value. How expensive is this stuff?

I’ve been reading I need 4 inches of good foam insulating board for good insulation. The way I have in mind, I will frame out the walls and ceiling, put in wall/ceiling insulation, then use 2 inches of the foam board. does this sound reasonable?

I still don’t know what to do about the floor insulation though. suggestions?

Doors - where can I get appropriate insulating doors? I haven’t looked yet at home depot, do they have appropriate doors? How much should I look to spend on the doors?

my plans - two zones, one at 40F, the other varying from 50-65, depending on what I am fermenting. I will use two love controllers, one controlling the window AC unit (will I need an SSR, or will the love controller handle the amps?), the other will control a fan in the wall separator of the two zones, turning on when it needs to cool the other zone. I assume I also need to have a circulation pathway for the air? Where should the fan(s) be mounted? I plan on putting the probe for the 40F thermostat in some gel (blktre uses ice gel packs, i’ll probably do the same), and then for the fermenting zone, i’ll put that in the ambient air. How does that sound? Also, is there an easy way to extend the love controller thermistors - can I just add wire, or would it increase the resistance too much and throw off my temperatures? (I know I could set an offset with the love).

Sorry for the long post, and for the many questions. Any help, pricing, suggestions, are appreciated! Thanks!

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First timer

Saturday, July 19th, 2008

well to start i’ve never brewed anything. i’ve read about it and how its done but that’s it. my main Q is where do i get the stuff to brew it isn’t like i can go to the store and buy the extracts and stuff, or can i. and as for the fermenting i understand what it does and how it works. but this airlock thing what is that and do i really need it. id like to keep this as cheap as possible till i get into it a lil more. Thanks for any help.

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BBQ Chicken?

Saturday, July 19th, 2008

Posted: by JarheadRI (21 hours ago)

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5oz of Glacier Pellets

Saturday, July 19th, 2008

What are my options here? Extract batches. I do partial boils. I think I’m leaning towards some kind of bitter/pale ale/amber kind of beer. Any good options here?

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Beer Info

Saturday, July 19th, 2008

A recent study found the average American walks about 900 miles per year.

Another study found Americans drink, on average, 22 gallons of beer a year.

That means, on average, Americans get about 41 miles to the gallon.

Kind of makes you proud to be an American….

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Score!

Saturday, July 19th, 2008

My buddy is a pro plumber, he wants to plumb out some running water to my garage, so he found me a canister system, he pulled it out of a house that he installed it in a few years ago, and charged the guy $600 for the unit when new. So now I got that working for me, which is nice.

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Garage sale score

Saturday, July 19th, 2008

I got 3 cornies, CO2 and tubing, and a cheap nozzle. 20 bucks. Score, eh?

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Russioa River

Saturday, July 19th, 2008

I received three bottles each of Temptation, Supplication and Beatification last week and let me tell you that you CA brewers are truly blessed. I tried my first Russian River (temptetion) last night and I can honestly say that I can’t imagine a sour beer being any better than the one I tried last night. I did pay dearly however, $15 a bottle plus shipping to Long Beach and then shipping to Florida. I would live at that brewery if I lived in CA and close to it.

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quick dryhopping question

Saturday, July 19th, 2008

I am dryhopping with an oz of amarillos pellets. it has been almost 2 weeks. I put these in a sack which sunk to the bottom of the fermentor.

I was plannin on fermenting in primary for about 4 weeks. monday will mark 3 weeks of fermentation, and 2 weeks of dryhopping. you think I should just keg now, and cold contion so I have no risk of grassy flavors? or should I wait a few more days?

also this is an APA for comp. the competition is not until aug 16th.

do you think 3weeks-month in a keg is long enough to kill the hop flavor?or would you say I should be fine?

thnx brew strong,
Herr Hiller

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I’ll be brewing a Flanders Red tomorrow and I have a question regarding whethter to rack off the primary fermentation to a secondary. I’m only using a Roselare yeast and I don’t want to rack off any of the bugs. Thanks.

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posting some pix

Saturday, July 19th, 2008










Spent most of my free time this week building the cabinet with plex glass doors that I am going to open up to the ferment cabinet. Going to use it to make my starters in and store items temp, humidity affect. Keep it at about 60 degrees. Had to buy new frig for the house end up buying a free standing frig and freezer combo. I got the chest freezer. Have cheap taps and temp control on backorder.
Almost everything is recycled thats why it looks rough but it works.

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