Beer Feeds

Posted: by yemenmocha (11 hours ago)

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I am wondering just how long that a mixed up solution of star sans will last and still be effective? I make up 3 or 4 gallons of star sans solution to sanitize my fermenters and equipment to brew. If I brew again in 1 or 2 days, will the same solution still be effective?

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Is it possible to fill my corny with water to experiment with carbonation before using my precious beer?

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You guy have just about walked me through my first batch. I bottled last Friday and with just a coule of weeks left I was wondering does it hurt to give the bottles a turn (top to bottom) while it’s ageing ?

Thanks

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We have a 3 tier keggle set up and we have been thinking about adding a pump.
We have been tweaking everything trying to get some better times on brew day. Draining the mash tun, even the after the boil and through the CFC. Gravity works obviously but sometimes it can be painfully slow, space isnt an issue so changing to single tier or something not really a necessity but will the pump help out even in a situation like this? I just want brew day to move faster at times. Is a pump the answer or does it create additional problems / considerations?
TIA
Hentai

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At Flying Dog’s Gonzofest party, we were lucky enough to get footage of a dude who wasn’t so lucky. He went up against a Habañero with only a few glasses of Flying Dog beer in his corner. Needless to say, the dude was overmatched.

Flying Dog Brewery
Frederick, Maryland
September 13, 2008

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All,

I am contemplating placing an order for the years supply of whole leaf hops, I brew approx 26 times a year for 5 gal batches with an average of 4oz per batch. I am thinking of ordering 7-8lbs of whole leaf hops.

What I am looking for is how much (space wise, i.e. cubic feet) does 7-8lbs of leaf hops take up?

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Building a portable keg system and trying to keep things small in size. Has anybody tried out the mini Co2 regulator? The one that use’s a threaded 68 gram cartridge. The other question I have is what is the size of the threads on the cartridge. I would like to use a larger paint ball tank instead of the cartridge and can make threaded part if I knew the thread size and thread per inch. I do know its left handed threads. Couldn’t find one in the KC area so I have one coming from the left coast. The mini co2 regulator is a little on the high side but it is small in size also the cartridge’s are high priced. That’s one the reason to use the larger tank.

Any help I will thank you now

Dominus Vobiscum

God Bless

Swagman

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Is it ok to use starsan on copper? I think I once read that starsan would weaken copper over time. Is this true?

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Every time we give a tour and talk about quality control there is never a shortage of people volunteering to be Flying Dog beer tasters. What everyone fails to realize is we would never want to give such a sweet job away. This is a live action photo of the world’s best job as Flying […]

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The People’s Republic of Flying Dog is now in session. It’s happy hour at Flying Dog Brewery, so here is your latest dose of irreverence.
GonzoFest: The AftermathThis newsletter is going to be short and sweet and we will be returning to our regularly scheduled newsletter programming next week when we will be announcing the winner […]

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I must say that the idea an oyster stout really doesn’t appeal to my tastes, but I’m curious because there seem to be a number of commercial examples that not only do not induce vomiting, but actually collect quite favorable reviews. So my question is, technically speaking, what is gained from adding oysters to the boil? salinity? Calcium? certainly not “oysteriness”…

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Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster.

I made a brew on Saturday evening and pitched an 11g pack of fresh Fermentis Safale US-05 into a 5G batch.
OG was about 1.044 and it’s been in about 72-76 deg. After 60 hours, I still dont see any activity in airlock
but there is a thin head of krausen on top. Its in a plastic bucket if that matters.

I dont have oxygen or a stone yet, but I tried to splash the wort when going into the primary to get some air in.
I’ve never used this yeast before but LHBS was out of the liquid Wyeast I wanted, so he said this was as good.

I know someone will say to use a hydrometer - how do I get a sample out of the bucket without disturbing to too much?

Thanks!
DG

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I was just over in Britain and drank a lot of Kronenbourg 1664. Beeradvocate doesn’t rate it very highly, but it is one of the mainstays on tap in most british pubs, along with Fosters and Guiness. However, I loved it, and apparently so do the Brits. I’ve never seen it in the U.S. though. Has anyone else? Does anyone know if there is a beer over here that is similar in taste and style, or does anyone have an extract or partial mash recipe that approximates it?
Good stuff!

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Posted: by juankzas (19 hours ago)

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Ok….I need to be more careful when trying to brew on the end of a Sunday! LOL

This is the second brew I have done using WhiteLabs pitchable yeast. I didn’t notice it had a use by date on it until it was too late, so I pitched it anyways, seeing as the use by date of mid June! damn….

And then I also pitched the yeast early, I check the temp after pitching the yeast and it was 95 degrees! crap!

So there is no fermentation yet….did the high temps kill the yeast? Or will it just take longer to start since it was old?

Can I just pitch fresh yeast into it, now that its at the right temp and still have the batch come out ok?

I feel like a dumba$$ today!

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so i have noticed a lot being a homebrewer that ull talk to people who know nothing about beer. but they try to pretend they know alot about it. and this makes some fun quotes like “oh that beer is dark it must be strong” i thought itd be fun to make a topic of people posting some of the funniest things no beer advocates have made to you. this one tops the cake for me…..

Me: ya I homebrew.

Her:Oh really? I LOVE beer What do you make a lot of lagers?

Me: nah im more of an ale guy, they taste better in my opinion and they are easier to make. I like pale ales a lot

Her: i dont like ales

Me oh ok, you like a lot of lagers like Kölsch and shit?

Her: No i dont like lagers or ales

Me: theres really not any beer thats not al ale or a lager

Her: well i dont like either, I like budweiser. ever try bud with lime?

ha ha..i had to explain it to her and she acted like i had no clue what i was talking about. so anyways i thought tbhis would be a fun topic hope it gets a lot of posts

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I am in the mood for trying a brown ale. I am not real sure about which version I would like to make. I am looking for something malty with an IBU around 20 or so. Something with easy to find hops would be nice too. Any recipes will be taken and used for devious purposes. Send them my way.

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What can I expect from this funky fermentation (with pictures)

I brewed a couple of extract kits up on Saturday this week. One of them was 6-8 weeks old and when I opened the box I found that about an eighth of the extract had leaked out…so I knew I was in trouble, but thought I’d continue to see how it turned out.

Sunday evening the good batch (on the right) was chugging along, but the older batch (on the left) looked like it had chunks of sponge or cheese or rendered fat floating in it with mold spores growing in one area. I took pictures to ask what this probably was, and planned on tossing it out Monday after work – but then, to my surprise, Monday morning, I found it chugging along – If I’d never seen it Sunday evening, I would never know, but is this going to be a good batch, or should I toss it out? The yeast had been in the fridge (liquid smack pack) – I can only guess it took a while to kick in, that coupled with exposed extract…what would you do? Any info on what this is?

Thanks for any info!

This is what I saw Sunday eveing ~24 hours after brewing

This is what I saw Monday morning - just 12 hours later

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So here are the hops I’m using today for my brew, I’m having last minute thoughts on what schedule to introduce them with. Here are the two choice which I’m thinking of for my 10gal batch of my modified SNPA Clone.

Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
—————————————————————————–
1.00 oz. Chinook Pellet 13.00 28.5 60 min.
0.50 oz. Perle Pellet 8.25 9.1 60 min.
0.50 oz. Chinook Pellet 13.00 7.3 30 min.
0.50 oz. Perle Pellet 8.25 4.6 30 min.
4.00 oz. Cascade Whole 5.75 12.2 15 min.
2.00 oz. Cascade Whole 5.75 3.8 5 min.
2.00 oz. Cascade Whole 5.75 0.0 Dry Hop

or

Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
—————————————————————————–
1.00 oz. Chinook Pellet 13.00 28.5 60 min.
1.00 oz. Perle Pellet 8.25 9.2 30 min.
4.00 oz. Cascade Whole 5.75 12.2 15 min.
2.00 oz. Cascade Whole 5.75 3.8 5 min.
2.00 oz. Cascade Whole 5.75 0.0 Dry Hop

What do you think about the schedule and combo for Chinook and Perle? This what I have on hand

Do you think that me 15 min. Cascade is too much?

Thanks

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I am force carbonating my beer for the first time, I am going to force carbonate it at 30 psi for 2 days. My question is should I have my beer out piece attached to the keg as I force carbonate? Or should it be unattached and I put it on when it is carbonated??

Thanks

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Posted: by kyleec (19 hours ago)

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So, yesterday I started brewing a nice Irish Red, and I opened up a 1/2 used 33lb jerrycan of Munton’s Extra Light LME I had meant to use in the spring but didn’t get to before the heat closed the brewing season. Sitting on the top of the LME was a fine layer of what looks like mold

I poked at it a bit and discovered that it was really just a thin layer. Unfortunately, given the viscosity of the LME and the narrowness of the opening, I couldn’t siphon from the bottom nor skim from the top. After a few minutes thought, I figured that the boiling would kill any nasties. “Hey, RDWHAHB” the Great Prophet says. So, I do, and I pour in the almost 7 lbs of LME I need and go about by business, giving it a bit of extra time on the boil (75 minutes total). Relaxing.

But now I’m having trouble relaxing. Do I have anything to worry about? Should I just keep relaxing?

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Do you have to be 21 to purchase the required equiptment and ingridients?

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So I brewed the English IPA recipe tha I have been working on here.

Went great, though it was the capacity for my 5 gallon MLT on its first run - 15.82 lb grain! Got great conversion, did an iodine test and had no starch left. My SS braid worked great fly sparging and I got the right volume. Started the boil and it was looking great, ran out of propane in the last 5 minutes but I had been anticipating that so we threw it on the stovetop and finished it no problem. Hooked up the wort chiller and cooled it down…..until I realised hey there is more volume in here than there was a minute ago…… SHIT the connection on the chiller sprung a leak halfway through cooling and dumped a bunch of water into the brew……… needless to say I was pretty bummed but as I ended up with ~7 gallons ….maybe closer to 7.5 or 1.050 wort instead of 6 gallons of 1.071 I decided to split it in two and do one batch with the 1968 and the other with the nottingham I had kicking around.

Definitely learned a lot on this first run and all went really well except that damn leak, so instead of the high ABV, bitter IPA I was looking for I will get two bacthes of slightly less potent but I hope very tasty brew.

Gonna put them both in kegs for secondary as incentive to get a bar fridge and put together my kegerator and try them side by side. So catastrophe? Not really, learned something and have a good feel for AG now and I can’t wait to do my next batch with a slightly more accurate result I hope!

Thanks for all your help getting me this far folks!

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Anyone had it ?

Been watching commercials on teh NFLs.

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Here is a modified version of the SNPA Clone.
I like the original but wanted to add a little more malt backbone and the hops schedule was based around what I had on hand.

Let me know what you think

SIERRA NEVANDA modified CLONE

A ProMash Recipe Report

Recipe Specifics
—————-

Batch Size (Gal): 11.00 Wort Size (Gal): 11.00
Total Grain (Lbs): 26.00
Anticipated OG: 1.054 Plato: 13.33
Anticipated SRM: 6.6
Anticipated IBU: 86.5
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75 %
Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
—————————————————————————–
92.3 24.00 lbs. Maris Otter 1.030 3
3.8 1.00 lbs. Crystal 20L America 1.035 20
3.8 1.00 lbs. Munich Malt Germany 1.037 8

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.

Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
—————————————————————————–
1.00 oz. Chinook Pellet 13.00 28.5 60 min.
1.00 oz. Perle Pellet 8.25 18.1 60 min.
1.00 oz. Chinook Pellet 13.00 14.6 30 min.
1.00 oz. Perle Pellet 8.25 9.2 30 min.
4.00 oz. Cascade Whole 5.75 12.2 15 min.
2.00 oz. Cascade Whole 5.75 3.8 5 min.
2.00 oz. Cascade Whole 5.75 0.0 Dry Hop

Yeast
—–

White Labs WLP001 California Ale

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After I have drained my first running into my kettle could I just add my sparge water to the MLT and recirculate at 170 for 15 -20 minutes then drain into the kettle? Would I be able to have good efficiency?

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Could anyone give me the parts list to build the heater for a RIMS? I really want to build a RIMS and this is my first step in figuring out how to build it and I’m stuck! Help me please. Thank you.

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Temp in the house will change degrees 74-80 as our normal daily routine.

I have a fridge that seems to be holding at a steady 52 degrees. I checked it over the last 4 hours (Is this a good indication of steady temp).

Which is the better option? I have yeast for both.

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