Beer Feeds

Posted: by birchstick (21 hours ago)

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I get my WLP002 in the mail the other day with the rest of my ingredients. The box must have been on the UPS van all day because it was very hot in the box when i opene it up. I was expecting to see the yeast protected somehow but it was right next to the grain and very toasty. I made a starter yesterday afternoon and it has been at the right temp since then. Nothing, Zip, Zilch. I dont have a stir plate but have been sl;oshing it around like crazy since pitching.

Was the yeast killed by the high temps in the box? Or should i give it more time? I wanted to brew tommorow but it looks like I may have to wait till next week if I have no yeast. Is there anything I can do to save my brew day?

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I’m only about a third of the way through a the large sized bottle of Starsan and it has developed a split in the plastic near the bottom. It’s almost as if it is from the stress of squeezing the solution into the premeasurement chamber. My question for the board is how would you handle this? I’ve gone through perhaps four such bottles and never had this happen. Do you suppose I should contact FIve Star and ask for them to fix the problem or just let it lie. Does anyone know a good source at Five Star?

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My local brewmaster told me that boiling in Aluminum is a definate NO.

Is this true? Obviously, SS would be the best option but can it be substituted with Aluminum for the starter brewer?

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So, I grab the morning paper and read “Santa Cruz home-brewer arrested after making poppy beer” -here’s the link:

http://www.santacruzsentinel.com/localnews/ci_10516691

I think he must have ticked off a neighbor…

Dave

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So I plan on pitching at some point to dry this out, (currently 20 days in with 3787 and still at 1.040). I have 5 gallons at my house, and my buddy has 5 gallons at his. My plan was to make two 1/2 gallon starters, one for each of us. I have never made a starter with this yeast. Do I just use DME in a normal 1.035ish starter wort? The hydro sample was kneebuckling.

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How long can milled specialty/steeping grains be stored and what is the optimal way to store them?

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I brewed a wheat beer last saturday. I was going to let it sit for another week, but I am having a last minute get together tonight. The batch is done -hydrometer wise-. I did read somethingthe other day that wheat beers are best when they are green. So, that being the case would the wheat beer be the right style of beer to drink early?
just looking for an opinion.

Edit: when I say wheat beer I mean a Hefe.

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Does is matter what the Co2 tank is made of? I am finding that the steel tanks are much cheaper.

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I made a 5gal oatmeal stout last year from a kit but I don’t know what all the specialty grains were or how much of them were included. This is what I have from my notes:

7lbs united canadian dark extract
specialty grains - has lots of oats and some dark stuff (amount ?)
1oz palisades hop pellets (alpha acid 9.7%)

How much oatmeal should I get? This beer was so long ago I wouldn’t have been able to ID ingredients that well. I would guess there was some black patent and chocolate malts or something. What are the other likely ingredients and amounts in the steeping grains?

This time around I was planning on using glacier hops in place of the palisades for the 60 min boil. Is 1oz appropriate? Is the hop choice even appropriate? They are 12-13% alpha acid.

I’m keeping some Wyeast 1056 American from the APA I’m making next week - would this be a good yeast choice for an oatmeal stout or should I stick with the Nottingham (if I can even get Nottingham by then!!)?

I know this is a lot of questions so thanks in advance for any help.

Here is the link to the kit I bought: http://www.homebrewers.com/product/ALP1029…t_Beer_Kit.html

EDIT: MODS - if this should go in the regular beer forum I’m sorry about that - feel free to move it over.

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Posted: by SPLITGRIN (13 hours ago)

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Posted: by dyan (21 hours ago)

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Next weekend I’ll be making a pale ale. I have some Wyeast 1056 American. I have 1.5lbs of DME. I’m planning on making the starter a few days ahead of time so I can let the yeast settle out. I want to have some extra yeast to save for the long term.

How much water and DME should I use for the starter? About how much yeast should I save after I decant the starter wort off?

FYI - I have a 5L flask and a stir plate.

TIA.

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I’m wanting to make a stir plate and have seen many designs on line. I am, however, severely challenged when it comes to wiring and all things electrical and I cant see in any of the designs a step by step wiring guide. I have a 9v phone charger from an old phone also, i have a 120 Fan and magnets from a dead computer. I will use any old box but I cant for the life of me figure what plugs into what and when. If there are any patient people out there who could give me the “stir plate for extreme dummies” info, it would be much appreciated.

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Since this site doesn’t sell these I thought it would be OK to post this here. When we have been paying higher prices for grain and hops it is nice to get a deal every once in a while, especially since that other site is selling these for $40.99.

http://www.sanitationtools.com/products.as…mp;Product=1391

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Brian from Iambeerwise.com sends us along a heaping helping of Philadelphia beers, and we eagerly jump in headfirst. This super-sized edition of Craft Beer Radio gives us a refreshing taste of what Philly has to offer, including a beer that instantly makes both of our top ten lists of the year.

Beer:

• Philadelphia Brewing Company - Kenzinger
• Philadelphia Brewing Company - New Bold
• Philadelphia Brewing Company - Rowhouse Red
• Philadelphia Brewing Company - Walt Wit
• River Horse - Double White
• River Horse - Hop haZard
• Iron Hill - Ring of Fire
• Monk’s Cafe - Flemmish Sour Ale

Rankings:

• Jeff: 1. Ring of Fire, 2. Monks, 3. Hop Hazard, 4. Rowhouse, 5. New Bold, 6. Kenzinger, 7. Walt Wit, 8. Double White
• Greg: 1. Ring of Fire, 2. Monks, 3. Hop Hazard, 4. Walt Wit, 5. Rowhouse, 6. New Bold, 7. Kenzinger, 8. Double White

Extras

• Preshow
• Postshow

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Hiya everyone,

Been reading for awhile but first time poster. Currently I have my first batch in the primary and today is day 7. Question is, when should I first check FG? Should I check when the airlock stops bubbling or when the two weeks in the primary are up? Probably a pretty basic question, just wasnt sure if I should disturb the brew until its around the two week mark.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

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How long after I use Starsan on a bottle will it still be working? Can I let it set for an hour?
Do I need to test the ph of my water to see if this stuff is working, When I mix up a batch of Starsan it turns cloudy.
I am bottling my first batch ever today and these question came up.

Thanks

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I am fairly new at brewing my own. This is the first time that I will be going through a fresh harvest of hops. I usually brew a batch about once every four to six weeks, figure about ten batches a year. Here is my question, do I need to buy pounds of hops so that I can have them or should I just stick to buying as needed. I favor wheat beers, American and German, and brown ales mostly. Usually when I go to my LHBS I ask for what I want and get what he has close. I guess my biggest concern is if I buy ten pounds of hops, what kind and how to keep them fresh? Thanks for any replies. I love this board.

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Anyone got a source for SS thermowells with 1/2″ NPT. I am in the planning/aquisition stages for my sculpture and need 2 for the MT and HLT. The one’s from B3 are backordered and seem ridiculously expensive for what they are.

Also does anyone know if the probes come with the Cole Parmer Love controllers or do I need to buy those separate?

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My IC has a tear (not crying) in the middle of a crease.

How do I repair this? Should I completely tear it then look for a coupling?

I tried to solder it but it did not work. Any help is appreciated.

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As you land on my tongue with your friend Amarillo helping out, it’s a cascade of flavor. You are so friggin tasty. I mean, they should have named you deluge, because you’re just BURSTING with delicious citrusy yet mellow and awesome.

mmmmmmm…

I love you cascade. I’m so glad you’re in my pale ale

*sniffs those wonderful late additions*

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So I’m planning my brew sculpture and I want to have temperature control…. problem is, I don’t know what to use. Electric or gas. I currently have 2 large burners that would work perfect for a propane system (though I’d still need to buy a third for the brew pot) I want temperature monitory on all three keggles but I don’t really need accurate control on the brew kettle so propane works perfect there.

My thoughts are that with a propane system I need a PID (SSR out) and an expensive combustible gas rated solenoid valve and a pilot light system. With electric the PID with SSR out would be enough…. So from a cost and simplicity standpoint, I’m thinking the electric system is a no brainer…. Am I wrong here? Are there any cons to going the electric route?

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I’m picking away at my system, and I’m about to start on an electric keggle. I’m trying to sensibly match the element to what I will need for a rolling boil on a 10 batch in a well insulated keggle.

For any of you doing this, can you estimate what power you are using to boil. If you are using a controller, what’s your output and element rating?

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I am new to brewing and have never actually brewed beer before. I showed up at the local hombrew club meeting and learned allot of very good information. Thanks to everyone for answering what must have been pretty basic questions. Anyways I had Monday off of work, and inspired by Friday’s meeting, I decided to make a wort chiller. I used 3/8′ refrigeration copper tubing. It came in a 50′ role and I was able to make a 25′ wort chiller and another 25′ pre chiller. Total cost of the project was $50.

50′ Copper Refirgeratoin Tubing - $40
Waterhose Connections - $3.49
Food grade plastic vynl - $3.89
Radiator Style Hose Clamps $2.64
Time to make - 45 minutes.

If anyone is interested in the actual building let me know and I will post more details. Later I realized that refrigeration copper tubing is measured by the outside diameter as oppose to the inside diameter of regular copper tubing. Is this OK? Having never seen a wort chiller in person are most of them measured by the outside diameter or inside diameter? I get pretty good water flow through the tubing and managed not to crimp the tubing. In your opinion will this wort chiller still function?

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I just noticed in the latest BYO that there’s an ad for the upcoming Wyeast special releases, and Cask Ale is on there. I put in an order to Jess for 15 packs (only 5 for me, the rest for my brew buddies) — I freakin’ can’t wait to reacquaint myself with this old friend! I’m not sure if Jess is planning on carrying it for the three months it’ll be out, but if you want to make a GENUINE JPA, get in touch with him and get yours ordered up! (And while you’re at it, order up some Amarillo, Cascade and Centennial too.) Let’s show those Wyeast guys that there really is a demand for this yeast!!!!!

Can you tell I’m really excited about this? Or should I post more?!?!?

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I’ve been searching around for a wort chiller. It seems with the price of copper I can buy one, rather than building, for about the same price, without the headache of finding someone who knows how to sodder well and figuring out all the little details. Ebay has some stainless ones going pretty cheep but they’re smaller diameter and stainless which if memory serves me doesn’t conduct as well. I’ve seen a few pop up in the copper but haven’t seen what they went for. Any suggestions on the best place/ way to buy? Anyone want to get rid of an old one? (doubtful). Thanks

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ok. so this is a little idea I am having. I haven’t even built a brew sculpture yet…but when I do I have an idea. I have my old CD player from my ford, and the speakers that came with it. (the factory crap) I saved them because if I ever sold the car I’d put the factory stuff back in it. well I totalled the focus on friday night (no worries im OK and it wasnt my fallt so im OK financially too) so Now i just have a car CD player and 4 cheap car speakers laying around. but its all factory so nothing special or worth selling IMO when I could use them for something else.

Anywho I was thinking when I make my brew sculpture I could mount the CD player and 2 (maybe 4) of the speakers somwhere on the sculpture so i have my brewing music outside on the brew machine. Could I do this with a regular outlet? or would I need to do something special? also what do you guys think of the idea in general? maybe a lil odd of an idea.. but I like it.

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I was ready to pull the trigger on the 14.5 gallon Fermenator until i read an article about some plastic conical fermenters. They sure do a good job of telling ya that at a fraction of the cost they work just as well.

Anyone use either or have any opinions?

Thanks

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I’ve been relistening to TBN podcasts lately and ran into the discussion of the hybrid chilling technique. This is essentially using an immersion chiller, along with a whirlpool created by pumping the wort back into the kettle (at an angle, obviously). It sounds like a great technique, but I’ve not heard of a number of people doing it. Anyone do this?

I currently have a convoluted counterflow chiller. It works well, but my ground water is typically too warm for me to pump it quickly and thus DMS production is an issue. Since my favorite (and most frequently brewed) style is Munich Helles (and I do have a pretty kick-ass helles, if i do say so myself) I think this method might improve the cleanliness of my Helles. Anyone have a similar experience?

EDIT: Whoops. For anyone wondering WTH I am talking about, take a peek here: Mr. Malty - Hybrid Whirlpool Chiller

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