Beer Feeds

Just wanted to share something I still can’t quite figure out.
I was going to make a wit with 4# pils and 3# wheat flour, 1# oat flakes. Ended up getting another pound of pils and backing the oat to 10oz, adding 12oz flaked barley.
Sour mash using one pound of pils for about 40hr, cereal mash with flour and oat, and 6oz pils, then protein rest and sacch at 152 for almost 2hr (went out shopping.)
Thing is, I got a big 5.5g of 1.060 OG. It really can’t be, so I’m guessing it was 4# flour, which is still something like 88% efficiency. Call it 5.25g and it’s 84%, a little closer to reality. I normally get ~78% with normal beers. Now instead of a more normal wit at 1.052 I have this monster thing, not sure how the balance will come out. I have no doubt that the slow ramp for the cereal mash did some great hydrating, and the sour mash would’ve helped drop the pH, but I still can’t quite grasp what happened. My hydro and refractometer both agreed.
If it turns out well, I may have to try and repeat the entire thing in the spring.
Anyone have any guesses or seen this sort of thing?

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I’m using partial mash with dry extract for a 5 gallon yield, and still not sure if I should fill my brew kettle to 5.5-6.0 gal after I steep the grains in 1.5 gal or so of water and boil. My last batch was an IPA and I wasn’t able to hit my starting gravity, so I’ve been researching a little. Papazian’s book says the hops react more efficiently with 2-3 gallons of water in the boil, then fill the primary fermenter with 2-3 gallons of cold distilled water, mix in the wort and aerate.
Others have told me to boil the full 5.5-6 gallons total. What’s the best method? I’ve also been trying to understand IBU measurements, and part of the “equation” deals with % of utilization and volume in gallons. Any advice in this area? I’m trying to expand from just buying Kits and using boxed ingredients.

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Looking for a all grain clone for Becks ….

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Posted: by n0rmann (22 hours ago)

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I’ve seen a lot on this board recently about dry-hopping in a secondary. How and why would one do this?

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I know kräusening ales is seldom necessary since they ferment rapidly enough, but, how many of you use this method in ales and how do you accomplish it?.

Samuel Adams uses this method in its Boston Ale which I absolutely love for its complex and clear flavors and it is an inspiration for me. They claim they ferment at almost lager temperatures (I assume high 50’s*) and condition longer which i do anyways (6+ weeks in bottles). I have diacetyl presence in my ale beers which i like to control (I do extracts and partial mash).

Here is how i plan to do it: I was thinking of brewing a 5 gallon batch of my own American Pale Ale recipe, then by end of primary fermentation brew a same recipe adjusted for a 6 gallons batch and get it going, take a half a gallon of the second and added to the first batch and move it to a secondary to complete fermentation, then bottle. Can you call this kräusening? Or is there an easier way?.

Can you still add fermenting wort to fermented beer, and bottle right away to finish fermentation in the bottle?. If yes, how much so that my bottles don’t explode on me?.

EDIT: I also read I can do a diacetyl rest by bringing my beer to room temperature (I guess from basement temps low 60* to upstairs 70*) for a few days after primary fermentation. I guess at this point i can add the 1/2 gallon of fermenting wort and bring back down to the basement. THE MORE I READ THE MORE CONFUSE I GET!

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…never done it…your thoughts?
Thanks
CB

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I usually drink about 3-4 pints during a batch. Staying away from beer while I make beer seems counter-intuitive to me. Although I am sure I would make better beer sober. But then I would be bored too.

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2.0 lbs. American Caramel 60°L info
3.0 lbs. Dry Light Extract info
6.6 lbs. Liquid Amber Extract info
.15 lbs. Corn Sugar info
1.5 oz. Cascade (Pellets, 5.50 %AA) boiled 60 min. info
0.50 oz. East Kent Goldings (Pellets, 5.00 %AA) boiled 15 min. info
1 tablespoons Cinnamon…1/2 in the boil, 1/2 in the secondary
1 tablespoons Nutmeg…1/2 in the boil, 1/2 in the secondary
1 tablespoons Cloves…1/2 in the boil, 1/2 in the secondary
2 pounds Pumpkin…cubed and baked at 350 degrees for 30 mins.
2 pounds Butternut Squash…cubed and baked at 350 degrees for 30 mins.
WYeast 1056 American Ale

Planning on doing this this weekend….thoughts?

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Friday is Halloween and a good day to brew. Brewing a Roggenbier, the timer will kick off at 7:00 AM turning on the electric HLT. So DJ get out the door to the job and pay in some more SS. Need a check for next month

Trying the recipe that was in BYO Oct. issue. Only thing that I will change is the pellet hops to leaf. Lost a friend that did a bang up job on the Roggenbier so this brew is for you Kenny.

Dominus Vobiscum

God Bless

Swagman

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Hi guys, I’m completely new to this so go easy on me please (not too much jargon), I may not have a clue but am quite eager to have a go.

I’ve gathered a bit of info off here and a few other places on the web and sort of understand the very basics of brewing but thought I better ask you experienced brewers before I start work on my first ever attempt.

I’ve gathered what I think enough equipment to try a small batch of 2 gallons including-

10litre boiling pot
10litre cooler/tun
2 1 gallon demijohns+airlocks
Ritchies mashing and sparging bag
Thermometer
Hop boiling bag
Syphoning tube

I also bought some ingredients including-

3kg standard pale malt maris otter
50g kent goldings
1 pack premium gold yeast

My plan was just to heat up some water to 156f mix it in the tun with 2kg of the malt, leave it for an hour, drain it into my demijohns and sparge it with enough to top up both demijohns plus another half. Then boil it up for an hour with 28g of the hops, stick it in the sink with some ice water. Once its cool put 4g of yeast in each demijohn then tip it in.

Please tell me if this is a daft idea, I’m trying to keep it simple to start. I understand the learning curve is a long one with this hobby. To start with just having something I made myself thats drinkable and has some alcohol in it would be great. Very much value your opinions please!

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I’ve been charting the temps in my garage here in Tacoma and I’ve got steady temps between 50-54 on the concrete floor. So I’m building up a four gallon starter batch of WLP 833 German Bock to do a few 10 gallon batches of lager on the same yeast cake. I’ve never been a great lager brewer and it’s been about 2 years since my last attempt. I’m looking for any feedback on these recipes. As planned, both will have a protein rest at around 128 and a main rest at 151. Both will get a 90 minute boil with 1st hops added at T-60min. Both will get Irish moss and yeast nutrient at T-15min. Both will be chilled to 50 prior to pitch. Both will get a 2-3 week primary and extended lagering. It’s my hope to save 1 of each for Spring/Summer sipping. Any feedback on this basic process would be appreciated. I’m tired of brewing average lagers.

The recipes: (I’m not locked into brewing to style, but I find it is a good framework if nothing else)

It is my hope that the red cargo rice will provide a slight nuttyness…saw it at the Korean Market and wanted to brew with it. The munich is there to add a little bit more malt flavor…I could live with it or without it. Any thoughts on grain bill and hop choice are welcome.

IS this a good ratio of pils/munich? Is the Carmel malt out of place in a lager. I thought it might add a little more body, but is that even needed in this beer? Any thoughts on the hops? Hallertau is the only noble I have in the freezer at the moment.

Any and all feedback welcome and will be considered…TIA!!

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Posted: by juankzas (50 minutes ago)

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Yahooooooo! Well I finally got my fermentation chamber! I had over $450 dollars in Lowes gift cards that I received as awards from my employer. I went to Lowes the other day when they had a 10% off and free delivery for major appliances and bought a 14 cubic feet upright Frigidaire Freezer. After using my gift cards the freezer ended up costing me just over $14.00. It worked out perfect, all of the shelves came out very easy, and the door shelf did not have to be replaced with a flat piece of fiberglass. Just had to take off the door shelf rails which was easy. The interior shelves and door shelf rails can be easily put back in to use as a regular freezer in between brewing.

My 14.5 gallon Blichmann Fermenetor fits in there just fine, now all I need to do is get my temp controller and I will be set.

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All for stupid reasons of not being careful. Man I need to add this to the cost of each brew now.

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Making “Liquid Stupid” which has a SG of about 1.097.

All is have is a 2L flask and a stirplate. Can I get by with 1 vile of 3787 or should I really be getting 2 viles?

This is the biggest beer I have ever attempted as I have never needed more than a 2L starter.

Thanks all.

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I’m brewing a new begian wit next weekend (im calling it my DUMBwit - clever, I know) and am toying with trying some new yeasts. Anyone have any experience or have some suggestions?

2 that I’m leaning towards right now: White Labs WL400 and Wyeast Forbidden Fruit ACT 3464.

Thanks again in advance.

Recipe (if that helps)
4 lbs Pilsner
3 lbs wheat
1.5 to 2 lbs flaked rice
1 lb rice hulls

3/4 oz. bitter orange peel (15)
3/4 oz. crushed coriander (15)

1/4 oz bitter orange peel (2)
1/4 oz lemon zest (2)
1/4 oz crushed corriander (2)

1 oz Hallertau (full)
1 oz US Saaz (finish)

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The People’s Republic of Flying Dog is now in session. It’s happy hour at Flying Dog Brewery, so here is your latest dose of irreverence.Election SeasonThe time has come to flex your democratic muscle. There is nothing more sacred than voting (ask the billions of people that can’t) and Flying Dog is a full believer […]

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Attention slackers:
If you’re looking for costumes the day before Halloween, you’re probably in trouble. Our suggestion is to dress up like your favorite beer from Flying Dog Brewery. Just like the people below, who make themselves into mega-sized Flying Dog bottles, you’ll be the life of the party.

Take photos of your costume and party […]

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I am unsure if their special aromatic is the same? When I called that was the closest the lady could give me.

Is there a substitute for special B??

Bill

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Hi
I have had a beer in my secondary for about 2 weeks and all the action has stopped. It looks very smooth and clear.
My question is, I will be bottling this weekend and was wondering if I should add some bottling yeast. If this is needed what kind of yeast do I use and how much? The other 2 batches I brewed earler had some foaming going on when I bottled them but this one looks flat. What ya think?
Thanks

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Posted: by kryptic (17 hours ago)

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Posted: by BlackBearForge (17 hours ago)

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Say some dolt, some dullard, nay, some buffoon had never gotten around to addressing the humidity/condensation problem inside his kegerator, and had subsequently allowed the control screw on his CO2 regulator to rust to the point where it could no longer be screwed in tighter than a “10 PSI” level. Would it work to just unscrew that sucker totally and replace it with a new one? Or is that screw positively attached to some internal “guts” that would be ripped out if that were attempted?

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If my final gravity numbers are right on, do I really have to rack to secondary…other than for clarification purposes?

Thanks!

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700 eager Flying Dog fans Brewery showed up to our inaugural FBAG (short for Flying Dog, Brats & Gonzo) on the afternoon of Friday, October 10, 2008. We had several self-serve beer stations pouring our Canis Major series brews, brats on the grill, as well as our newest Wild Dog release, Dog Schwarz.

Dog Schwarz is a smoked double lager, and Matt Brophy (our VP of Brewing Operations) lets you know what it’s all about.

Music by The Rob Drabkin Band - robdrabkin.com

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Wanted to invite any CFWAY readers and friends out to the annual Iron Hill Cask Event in a few weeks! It’s gonna be extra special this year with a plethora of beers from a bunch of different breweries. Come out and get your cask on!
Official PR:
On Saturday, November 15, beginning at 12 noon, Justin Sproul, […]

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Started my yeast starter Monday early evening. 2000Ml with WLP001. Using the stir plate that I made for the first time. Wow, it really got that yeast going,,, fast! Really cool!

I’m doing a Chocolate Hazelnut Porter and I’m using a partial mash recipe. Right now I’m mashing and I have about another 30 minutes before I sparge. This is my first time tweaking a recipe using promash so,,,, here goes nothing! LOL

I’ll keep you up with how the brewing day goes.

Cheers,

Darin

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I have perhaps three gallons of Imperial Pilsner that I brewed two years ago, bottled in both 12 oz and bombers, and have been aging in my cellar. The beer is 8.5% alcohol which I considered ageworthy.

Problem that I have is that the bottles did NOT carbonate. So, I am looking for your input as to what I should do? Here are some options that I have come up with:

1. Drink flat beer
2. Dump beer
3. Open all bottles and pour into a cornie, force carb, and drink quickly as everything got a lot of oxygen exposure.
4. Brew a new beer (variety?) and blend the IP into it (at what point?). Still would have an oxygen exposure issue.

I’m wide open to your ideas! Thanks.

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So I got my new B3 rig a while back and the learning curve was steeper than I expected - for the last 6 years I’ve been an all-grain batch sparge brewer and didn’t really appreciate how critical PH and sparge temps and times are.

So far I’ve done a few batches with the following results:

Batch 1) Hefeweizen - turned out horribly astringent. Several disasters occurred with this batch due to the new equipment and process. I got a really low efficiency among other things. Thought the astringency could be from PH of my filtered water being out of balance so I grabbed some 5.2 stabilizer. I had to dump this batch out after months of hoping/wishing the astringency would somehow age out.

Batch 2) Another Hefeweizen - Used 5.2 in mash and sparge water. Turned out wonderfully, efficiency still a little less than what I was used to but that was a minor complaint and chalked up to not really being able to work the new equipment yet.

Batch 3) German Helles - First 10 gallon batch. Went okay, no astringency, used 5.2, efficiency a little low still but beer turned out great.

Batch 4) American brown - Nailed it! Used 5.2, efficiency in the high 70’s - beer tastes wonderful. No off flavors. Thinking I have this thing mastered.

Batch 5) Weisse Bock - Supposed to be for Halloween. Followed all procedures from successful batch of Brown Ale. Fermentation went normally, kegged and carbed on Tuesday tasted last night - WTF! ASTRINGENT?!? No no no please say it isn’t so! This is supposed to be for a Halloween party this Friday!

I am tryingt to find a glimmer of hope here: What I think may be astringency is very slight and seems to sort of come and go with each sip so I wonder - could this really be astringency? Could I just have overcarbed the beer, or perhaps it has not sat on the carbonation sufficently and what I am tasting could be CO2 bite? Also, this is a pretty strong beer and hasn’t aged very long - primary fermentation 14 days and secondary 2 weeks - any idea if this beer could just be green? Or am I just fooling myself here and I’ll have to throw out another batch of beer?

_Randal

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