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Some of the sales crew and Pitt alums from Premium Ohio, one of our all-star distributors, recently visited their alma mater for a tailgate party Flying Dog style. The Panthers took a beating at the hands of Rutgers but at least they had Flying Dog to drown their sorrows. At Pitt, win or lose, they […]
Hey all,
For my next batch I want to make my first lager. So what I want to make is something relatively simple, with a recipe that is forgiving, so that the possible inconsistencies that I face won’t be able to ruin the batch if things don’t go the way I want.
The main reason I want to do a lager is that the temperature in my brewing area has fallen below ale levels, and I don’t have reliable temperature control. For the past few weeks, my fermenters have maintained a steady 58-59F temperature. Let me go ahead and say I know my method may not be the best, but I want to give it a try. My plan is to ferment the beer in a water bath, cooled with ice in bottles to 50F, do a diactle rest inside the house, then throw the secondary into the insulated but unheated garage to lager over the winter
….Anyways I wanted to do a recipe that would be a little easier than a pilsner, in other words something that might hide some flaws, but still be a true lager style, something new. I put together this recipe, somewhere between a tradional bock and a maibock:
Grain:
9# german pils
1# caravienne
.5# caramunich
.25# roasted wheat
Hops:
Crystal 4.7% 1oz at 60, .5 at 15
Wyeast 2206- 2 quart starter
OG-1.060
FG -1.015
IBU-23
SRM-20
Questions: Do you think this recipe/style is ruined if a few esters get in? I was hoping the roasted flavors might cover them.
Am I using enough “malty” malts? Will the caravienne and caramunich act like their non cara cousins?
From what I’ve read this style usually calls for a decoction mash, do you really think it is necessary or can I mash as per the usual?
If you don’t think this is a good style to start lagering with, do you have any suggestions?
[edited to add vital stats]
Just thought I’d chime in before posting.I’m new to the board but not new to brewing.I’m just getting comfortable all-grain brewing and trying to brew as many styles as possible.Feel free to set me straight if I go talking out of my azz.
Grain Bill (5 gal batch):
-12# American 2-Row
-1# Crystal 40
Centennial Bittering, Amarillo Flavor/Aroma at about 38IBUs total
1.060 OG
WL001 Yeast
Do you think 1# of C40 is too much? I don’t want this to turn out too sweet. I don’t make a lot of APAs so I’m concerned about balance here.
EDIT: Let me be clear what I’m aiming for (per board policy): I want an APA that has some backbone but where the hops slightly outweigh the malt probably 60/40. What I do NOT want is an APA where it’s quite obvious that not enough hops were used, or that the malt outweighs the flavor profile.
So the other day I was reviewing my hop supply and found a pack of safale S-04 in with the targets. I know this stuff is pretty tough but can it withstand freezer temps? My instinct is to toss, but I hate wasting anything.
I finally got all the pieces cut and de-burred for my new mash manifold. I’m using it in a 70 qt. Coleman and I’d like to attach the ends together to make it a little more robust. Should I use solder or a tubing cement for the joints? I only ask because whatever I use will be exposed to my beer and I’m not sure if the solder is a problem.
The Waco Wine & Food Festival was held this past weekend in sunny Waco, Texas. Yes, it said it was a wine festival, but there was also beer there, including Flying Dog. The event was held in centennial Park, with over 2000 people there, about
200 beers and wine from over 40 countries. Great music, food, […]
I have a 15 cubic ft freezer I use as a fermenting chamber. Would like to put a collar on it with a Love controller.
Question is where does the wiring go. Does anybody have any pics of how the have routed the wiring. In a conduit? maybe inside the collar somehow? looking for suggestions
I’m brewing great tasting ales…esb, ordinary bitter, american pale ale. etc.. but have a haze in every one of them..
serve @38 degrees
Thanks
I’m going to go get some 55lb bags of malt. The drive is about 45 minutes each way, so I’d like to get enough base malts to last for a while. I tend to brew hefes, belgians, porters, dunkelweizens, and pale ale variations. I need to get some wheat but I’m not sure what else to get. I was thinking of keeping it to 3 bags. I’ll need a pale or pils malt and I was thinking maybe munich, but I’m not sure.
So, what would you suggest for a lighter malt? Pale ale, pils, or something else? What would you get as your third malt?
Thanks.
I brewed a belgian trippel 4 weeks ago (SG 1.092) that I transferred to secondary last night (SG 1.040). I was hoping for a gravity of 1.020 or less but decided to transfer to get off the trub. Anyhow, can I anticipate further attenuation or should I repitch. I originally pitched 1.5 liter starter of WLP550 belgian ale @ 75 deg f and primary @ 68 deg f. From what research I did this morning, I think I should have fermented a bit warmer. I don’t currently have my notes with me but my recipe/procedure was 9 lbs light DME, 1 pound light candy, don’t recall the specialty grains or specific hops at the moment but I don’t think it matters for this issue. I boiled approx 90 minutes to get down to 5 gallons, cooled to 75 deg f per my usual procedure (immersion chiller), racked to my primary, oxygenated, pitched starter, and let sit for 4 weeks. Any feedback is appreciated. I was hoping to have this one ready for the holiday season.
Hey all,
I am trying to figure out what I need to buy to go AG. Im going to buy one of those water coolers for the mash tun, but I was wondering what size you guys recommend. I was thinking a five gal would work well enough considering that I only do 5 gal batches, but I am concerned that if I want to do a BIG beer it wont have enough room. What size coolers are you guys mashing in?
Thanks,
Jay
I’m talking to this guy at work the other night telling him I’m building a kegerator for Chrismas, my wife was going to buy me a new freezer. So he says he has taps, I said I don’t want taps I’m building a kegerator, he says yea, my friend has one you put the kegs in the doors and plug it in and it keeps the beer cold and has taps….So I go look the next day and I didn’t know much but looked on the internet at commercial kegerators and new if it was a True it was a good one, turns out to be a TDD-3 that’s 4 1/2 years old, I said how much, 400, put it in the truck!!
Posted: by HopHeed2113 (20 hours ago)
ok check it out:
5 gallon batch
10# marris otter
1# crystal 60
.75# chocolate malt
1028 Wyeast London Ale
goldings=4.2 alpha leaf
1.5 oz goldings at 65 min
1.25oz goldings at 10min
1.25oz goldings at 5min-flame out hopbust (steady hop additions)
mash at 154 degrees with 1.5 per pound ratio
First attempt at an ESB. Trying to go for a traditional style ESB with a thick Goldings aroma. My only reference though is Sierra Nevada’s ESB (Early Spring Beer). I know they use Challenger for bitters, but I don’t have any so Goldings it is. Any other ideas-something I missed? Does this look like a sound recipe? TIA
I live in Arizona where we have to deal with the highs and lows in temp and would like to regulate my man fridge. I am looking for plans, instructions on how to make a home made device that will function like a Johnson Controls Refrigerator Thermostat. I did a search for similar topics with negative results. Any help is appreciated.
I’m about to bottle a batch of American Amber Ale, however I don’t have a scale or corn sugar. I’d like to use plain granulated sugar, but it seems like the density is likely to be different from corn sugar. I read an article, I think at the BYO magazine website, that showed the conversion in weight.
Short of a conversion factor, does anyone have a stardard amount of granulated suger they use in place of 3/4 cup of corn sugar for a 5 gallon batch?
Wondering what kind of things people add to their water to make the best tasting beer. What and Why do you use it?
(Denver submissions would be great!)
Hi, guys. Im wanting to brew my own beer funnily enough. Im fed up of funding the governments mistakes and pie in the sky projects!! I was hoping there would be some one around my local area, Bournemouth, who could show me their setup and, I will say it, give me the lecture on how to brew my own nectar. Sorry if this is not posted in the correct section and about the completely novice questions about to follow!
A few questions that instatly spring to mind are,
How long would it take to brew a batch, sorry i dont know on any measurments? Ie from the first session will I get 1 pint or 5 gallons?
Will it really save me that much money in the long run?
Equipment needed?
Is it possible to buy clean used bottles that can have a secure bottle top clapmed << ?? back on for storage??
Appreciate a response soon as possible guys, happy to have found the forum!!
Dave.
I have an American pale ale in my secondary in the cellar at 60 degrees. It has been there for about six weeks. Will there be a problem when I bottle? Mainly just wondering if it will prime ok or not. Had to go away for work and never got to bottling until tomorrow. I tried to do a search on this but it did not get me very much information. I do not believe that this will affect anything, but just wondering. Thanks for the answers.
edit-spelling
I currently have mine in the plastic bags from the lhbs. More beer sales plastic jars that will hold 5 pounds which I like the idea but the price is more then I wanted to pay. I am trying to find a restruant that uses the big mayo plastic jars that might give them to me instead of throwing them away. Looking for other cheap yet good ideas. What do you use?
I just ordered 3, 50 pound vittles vaults from walmart for just under $25 each. Normally they are $40+. What do you use?
where does it fit? Should I clone something? I just bought a 55 pound sack of it.
Hey everyone,
I’m looking for some ideas on building a tier system. I am putting together a fly sparging system (made up of coolers) where I will have my hot water tank, then my MLT down to the brew pot and eventually into my fermenting bucket.
Here is the caveat: I’m looking for something easily to assemble and easily to tear down. Nothing permanent. Best for those days when it’s beautiful outside and you just want to enjoy the day while brewing.
If you have pictures and/or ideas please post them. I would love to see them. Also any pitfalls or tips you can add.
Thanks a million!
So I made a pretty bad assumption until now. I just took some thermometer readings at the top of the mash and didn’t realize how much hotter it was. So do most people run the recirc a few minutes and stir it up w/ a paddle, and recirc some more? I had thought the reintroduction of hot wort cooled off as it seeped back down, and was astonished at the difference between top and bottom of the mash. So what procedure do most use when using the HERMS?
I was thinking that a lot of yeast nutrients are just dead yeast cells. Could I take a used yeast cake of whatever variety, dilute it with water and boil it to use as a nutrient in perhaps a mead? I would think that boiling it would kill any cells, but still leave the vitamins and essentials for the yeast I want to thrive. Am I way off base here?
Hello. When using a pump, is there a greater risk of hot-side aeration if the tubing size changes during the process flow? For example, if I’m using 1/2″ tubing to the pump and then 3/8″ tubing out of the pump to the chiller. Thank you.
Posted: by GeoffFromSJ (17 hours ago)
Ok just about to do my first brewering. Any does or dont’s. Just want to see what ya’ll have to say
