Beer Feeds

Posted: by olympuszymurgus (21 hours ago)

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The first Uerige I had was a bit of a revelation. What a fantastic beer it was, pale, hoppy in flavor and aroma, balanced with a solid bitterness, and a rich and round, yet dry, and subtly complex bready maltiness. I saw it as what a Pale Ale would be if the style had been invented in Germany, unlike most Alts that I had previously, which were more like a German interpretation of a Brown Ale.

Named after a childhood friend of mine back in Germany that just had his 50th birthday, it’s based loosely on Denny Conn’s posting of the Uerige recipe from Dr. Frank Hebmuller, Brewmaster at Zum Uerige, my version is much more of a beer “in the style of…” than a clone. I’ve made a number of variations on this recipe, but this is the most popular and disappears quickly:

Oli’s Alt
Düsseldorf Altbier

Size: 5.0 gal
Efficiency: 75%
Attenuation: 78.7%

Original Gravity: 1.047 (1.046 - 1.054)
Terminal Gravity: 1.010 (1.010 - 1.015)
Color: 11 (11.0 - 17.0)
Alcohol: 4.84% (4.5% - 5.2%)
Bitterness: 37.7 (35.0 - 50.0)

Ingredients:
8 lb Pilsner Malt, Weyermann
1 lb German Light Munich, Best Malz
2.5 oz Caramunich® TYPE I, Weyermann
1.25 oz Carafa Special® TYPE I, Weyermann
1.25 oz Perle (7.5%) - added first wort, calculated as 20 min
1.0 oz Liberty ‘07 (4.0%) - added at 20 min
1.0 oz Sterling ‘07 (7.5%) - added at 2 min
Wy1007/WLP036 Fermented at 60-62°F

Schedule:
Saccharification Rest - Rest: 45 min
Step - 158 °F Rest: 15 min
Collect & Sparge - 165°F

Water: I use around 40-60 ppm Ca++, HCO3-, Cl- and SO4– and 25 ppm Na+ and an RA of ~10.

This is at the palest end of the Alt range, and I think I prefer it with 2 oz of Carafa or Chocolate Wheat so that the dryness of the roast flavor just starts to come through, but this version is so popular I thought I should post this. I believe even some commercial Alt brewers use Sinamr for color instead of roasted malt, so I don’t really consider color a defining feature of an Alt. The malt profile is delicious (a lot of that is due to the wonderful Weyermann Pilsner Malt), though, so I’m trying not to screw around with it any more.

The hop schedule for this is still a bit of a moving target. The Liberty and Sterling combination is mildly spicy with a slight floral aroma; quite nice, and, while not as distinctive as Spalt, maybe more of a crowd pleaser. I’m sure Liberty or Mt Hood used throughout would be great, too.

For yeast, it’s hard to beat Wy1007, but WLP036 makes a very nice, slightly maltier version and this recipe dries out pretty easily, so you don’t have to worry much about the lower attenuation. Both of these yeasts are slow to flocculate, though, so give them some time and cold to drop clear. This is a beer that can improve dramatically over an extra month or so, after the last of the yeast has dropped clear, so give it time to peak.

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Now that my fermentation chamber has offically become my kegerator, it’s obviously cycling quite a bit more
at 41 degrees vs 63. I have the temp probe taped to the keg and covered in bubble wrap.
What’s an average cycling schedule? Anyone ever kept track in a day? Not ever having a chest freezer before I
started brewing, I have no idea what an average cycle might be. After all the work that went into building
this mechagodzilla draft dispenser, I sure don’t want to burn it up!

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Posted: by Defenestr8or (15 hours ago)

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Posted: by GilGarp (16 hours ago)

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I’m going to FL and want to get some of my beer down there so my cousin can try it. My problem is I’m only going for 3 days and don’t want to check a bag if I don’t have to.

Question is can I ship my beer down there with anyone (USPS, UPS, FEDEX…) without getting a license to ship alcohol?

Anyone that can help please.

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I’ll be in Fayetteville NC in about a month and I see there are a few brew pubs that look promising. Whitch ones are musts? Any suggestions are appreciated. Prost.

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http://dieseldrafts.com/journal/2010/01/bu…rew-draft-beer/

I’m slowly getting settled back into my home, dug up these photos and finally put together the page of my kegerator build.

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I live in Tokyo but my awesome cousin brought me a load of American hops. So I found a recipe for Pliny the Elder which I was going to make. But after reading about the Hopbursting on this board, I got really excited to try it myself. So I’m trying to make a Hopburst recipe, using the mostly bitter hops I have on hand.

I’ve just started a year ago. I’m still doing partial mash and not quite sure about the grains.
I like an IPA to have a little body and balance so I tried to make it like Hop Ottin IPA or Hop Head or maybe 60 minute. A bit of color.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

What do you think?

Hopburst IPA

Size: 5.5 gal
Efficiency: 75.0%
Attenuation: 75.0%

Original Gravity: 1.068
Terminal Gravity: 1.017
Color: 10.87
Alcohol: 6.76%
Bitterness: 97.2

Ingredients:
3500 g Dry Extra Light
400 g Munich Malt
300 g Crystal Malt 40°L
40 g Columbus (15.0%) - added during boil, boiled 20.0 min
40 g Chinook (13.0%) - added during boil, boiled 15.0 min
40 g Simcoe (13.0%) - added during boil, boiled 10.0 min
40 g Centennial (10.0%) - added during boil, boiled 1.0 min
40.0 g Simcoe (13.0%) - steeped after boil
1.0 ea White Labs WLP001 California Ale

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i primary’d for three weeks, then transferred to secondary and let it hang out in there for three months. FG came down to 1.008! pretty strong, OG was 1.086 that puts it at 10.36%alc/vol tasted good at bottling time (few days ago) raison, fig dark fruit, but NO sweetnes whatsoever, very dry but not too alcoholy. is this normal for the style? i used WLP500 and made a half gallon starter

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Just trying to put together a recipe for a pumpkin ale (first time doing this style) and wondering how much ppg I assign to the cooked pumpkin when calculating my OG.
I got a recipe from my LHBS, it takes 9lb of pumpkin and it assumes it will add not any extra gravity to the wort.
My plan is to mash the pumpkin with the grains and I’m plan to use 30 ppg for the pumpkin. I assume the enzymes from my base malt (which I selected pilsner because DP is high, at 160 mark) will covert part of the starch from the pumpkin as well, plus the pumpkin has already some sugars even without mashing it.
This is my recipe and numbers. Let me know what you think.

5lb Briess Pilsner
1lb Briess aromatic
1lb Briess Vienna 20L
3lb Cooked pumpkin added to the mash

Mash at 160 for 60min

Estimated OG at 1.049
Estimated FG at 1.012

12 points of the OG are coming from the pumpkin.

Thanks for any light on this.

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I’m brewing an IPA today and was planning on using the yeast from the APA I brewed last week as I transfer to secondary. The APA in primary is still fermenting away, usually it’s done most of it’s work by now and using the yeast isn’t a problem. I don’t want to disrupt the fermentation too much, but was thinking I could siphon from the bottom of primary the yeast directly into the primary for the IPA. It will take longer for the IPA to get started because there won’t be lots of yeast but it should take off in a day or so.

What do you think?

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I’m currently brewing a Rogue Dead Guy Clone using pacman yeast. I’m considering using the yeast cake as a starter for a Double IPA. The hops used will be completely different, though. I’m using Saaz and Perle for the dead guy and will be using Cenntenial and Cascade in the boil for the double, plus a Cenntenial dry hop in secondary. Under these circumstances, does anyone think reusing the pacman will be an issue?

Thanks, in advance.

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Good Morning all,

12 days ago I brewed a Bavarian Doppelbock, from Midwest - here’s the link for anyone curious;
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/bavarian-do…-grain-kit.html

It’s in a cube cooler at 50F and still bubbling occasionally - 4 to 6 times a minute.
(OG 1.084)

This weekend I intend to rack it into a carboy, and would normally leave it out for 24hrs for the diactetyl rest and then cool back down to lagering temp for the next 10 weeks or so.

But, I am going away for 6 days on Feb 6th, - so won’t be able to keep adding ice bottles to if for that period(and he only people I trust are away too)

So should I do the following instead?;

Rack this weekend, put back in cooler at current conditions until the 6th, then add as much ice to the cooler as I can just before I leave, and let it rise to abient temp whilst away and class this as my rest, then start lagering on my return.

Thanks

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On behalf of BEWBC, the Impaling Alers, and WAHA, we are happy to announce the kick-off of the 2010 Puget Sound Pro-Am! This is the country’s largest GABF Pro-Am qualifying competition with 14+ breweries selecting homebrew recipes to scale up (more breweries still being added!) Last year the PSPA sent 12 of the country’s entries into the GABF Pro-Am and brought home the gold medal in 2008!

This is an AHA/BJCP sanctioned competition aimed at providing award winning homebrew recipes to be brewed by Puget Sound breweries with the goal of capturing a medal from the Great American Beer Festival’s Pro-Am Competition. The Puget Sound Pro-Am is unique in that it will have at least FOURTEEN breweries selecting their favorite homebrew beers from the best of show round to scale up and brew on their systems. Winning beers of AHA members may be sent on to the GABF for a shot at national glory! Not from the Puget Sound area? Out of state entries are more than welcome (the 2008 GABF gold medal winning entry was from a Colorado brewer). Non-AHA members can still enter the competition and win other awards and prizes (the Powerhouse Brewery will not be submitting to the GABF and will be free to pick any entry).

Start dreaming and brewing up your entries today! We want you to have plenty of time to brew up that perfect beer! The brewers are not just looking for stylistically accurate beers, but they will be looking for damn tasty beers. This is a perfect shot for that hybrid beer you make. You’ve got plenty of time to brew up entries specifically for one of the slots!

Check the competition website at http://www.bewbc.org/pro-am for the latest details including participating breweries, desired styles, contest rules, and links to online registration. Entries (three 10-12 oz brown bottles) are due April 20th with an entry fee of $6 per beer submitted online (several drop-off locations accepting entries beginning in early April). Judging will be held on April 24th at Larry’s Brewing Supply in Kent (if you are interested in judging, stewarding, or helping with event execution, contact Mark Emiley at markemiley@earthlink.net or register online). Winners will be selected in the weeks following. Check the website frequently for updates on participating breweries and contest details as the competition grows. To have the best shot of having your beer brewed, you need to be an AHA member by the time of the competition, so join today! Invite your friends to join the AHA and submit beers as well (all beers will be judged and ranked regardless of AHA membership). Good luck, and may your wildest brewing dreams come true!

Mark Emiley
PSPA Competition Organizer
http://www.bewbc.org/pro-am

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Posted: by snpub540 (16 hours ago)

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Posted: by JJFoodie (18 hours ago)

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Posted: by Heavenisbeer (20 hours ago)

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Posted: by slvrmon82 (24 minutes ago)

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Is there any reason why this wouldn’t be a good idea for a low cost fermenter? Of course you’d have to buy the valves and other hardware (drill hole for airlock etc).

Also, would there be a problem with only putting 20 gallons in a 60 gallon fermenter? I’m wondering if the excess headspace might lead to some off flavors.

http://www.tank-depot.com/productdetails.aspx?part=TN3132IN

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Texans! Dallasites(?)! Where are the breweries in Dallas? I’ll be in town for a conference in April and am looking for whatever breweries Dallas proper has to offer. What would you suggest?

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Hi All,

I am new to brewing lagers, and I was curious if there was a difference between lagering still and lagering in cornies under 12 psi of gas? Thanks in advance for your input.

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Posted: by barleywine1 (16 hours ago)

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Posted: by bargerking (20 hours ago)

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Posted: by BedetheVenerable (21 hours ago)

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I recently moved to Alaska and am having a hell of a time finding a brewing supply store that ships to a PO Box. They seem to like FedEx but that runs me $75 or more to have stuff shipped here. I’d love to support the LHBS here in town but the guy doesn’t get a lot of turnover and I don’t think his stuff is too fresh. Plus, he looked at me like I had two heads when I told him I wanted to brew a Dunkleweizen. I’m not sure he’s an expert since he told me that the yeast I wanted was a lager yeast and said I’d get the same results with US-05. Anyway, if anyone knows of a place that will ship to a PO box I’d appreciate it if you’d let me know about it.

Thanks

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I’ve done maybe 5 batches of beer now and it finally occurred to me to ask why I am adding corn sugar to my bottles for secondary ferment as opposed to other sugars. Thoughts?

This question is motivated by having a lot of leftover corn sugar at the bottle of the bottles after secondary fermentation. I am hoping that using another type of sugar (perhaps more easily processed by yeast?) might yield different/better results.

So, really, this is probably at least two questions.

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I use a starter on a regular basis. Whether pitching a new or reclaimed yeast, my starter is typically done in a plastic apple juice bottle. I would love a stir plate, but it isn’t in the stars as of yet. My questions are: Has anyone ever made he starter in the carboy a day or so prior to brewing, then transfered the wort directly on the starter after it has been cooled? Is that to much space/oxygen for the yeast? Does it matter?

Thanks and Cheers.

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Posted: by nickmooduh (23 hours ago)

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Posted: by rtratzlaff (1 day ago)

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