Beer Feeds

OMG!!! So I’ve had a bunch of brew pots I’ve been wanting to make and a Brutus 10 I’ve been wanting to build. I have done a world of research on how to weld, but have been coming up short on suggestions on what i should weld with. I think I should go with TIG because of how intricate I can get with it. I would just like to know what the welders use on this board and why. And what they would suggest.

If anyone could steer me in the right direction it would be most appreciated.

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Hey all,

I found this seemingly amazing beer recipe while googleing. This recipe looked delicious enough for me to jump into all grain brewing. I am currently figuring out how to build the best mash tun. I’ve got some advice from the local brew master and this link from Home Brew Talk Wiki

The main question that I have is this. Do you guys see any draw backs or any special considerations I need to take to make this batch a hit?

Here’s the link to the thread. Bumble Beer Thread

Here’s the recipe I saw on the thread.

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I’m really unsure why this taste so bitter - I kegged it only after 10 days in the primary.
Thoughts.

Nut Crazy
Northern English Brown Ale

Type: All Grain
Date: 8/20/2010
Batch Size: 6.00 gal
Brewer: rastafishman
Boil Size: 7.14 gal Asst Brewer: puppie Marley
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Brew Pot (6+gal) and Igloo/Gott Cooler (5 Gal)
Taste Rating(out of 50): 35.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00
Taste Notes:

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
8.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) (2.0 SRM) Grain 74.07 %
1.53 lb Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 14.17 %
0.52 lb Special Roast (50.0 SRM) Grain 4.81 %
0.50 lb Caraamber (30.0 SRM) Grain 4.63 %
0.25 lb Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 2.31 %
1.00 oz Goldings, East Kent [4.50 %] (60 min) Hops 13.9 IBU
0.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [4.50 %] (30 min) Hops 5.3 IBU
0.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [4.50 %] (5 min) Hops 1.4 IBU
1 Pkgs British Ale 8/20 NEW (Wyeast Labs #1098) Yeast-Ale

Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.048 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.047 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.012 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.011 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 4.68 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 4.69 %
Bitterness: 20.6 IBU Calories: 207 cal/pint
Est Color: 15.5 SRM Color: Color

Mash Profile

Mash Name: Total Grain Weight: 10.80 lb
Sparge Water: 8.69 gal Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F TunTemperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE Mash PH: 5.4 PH

Mash Notes: Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time).
Carbonation and Storage

Notes

HEAT 16 QT - TO 165 - MASH IN 153 - 90 MIN
HEAT 12QT - TO 212 - MASH OUT 167 - 15 MIN
HEAT 48 QT - TO 180 - SPARGE - 45 MIN - cooler 178
BOIL 2 - 16QT KETTLES - 90 MINS - LAST 15 MIN CHILLER

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So here’s my predicament: I had planned on attending the WBA International Diploma course offered through Siebel Institute back in 2007, so I payed the non-refundable deposit of $2,500 and was ready to go. Unfortunately I was unable to attend, due to various factors, and had to cancel my enrollment and reschedule for a later date. Siebel holds those deposit funds, which are now down to $2,300 due to another canceled enrollment, for up to 4 years. As the clock is now running down on my 4 year window for the funds and it is looking more and more likely that I will not be able to use them appropriately, and as the funds are entirely transferable, I thought I would see if anyone was interested in having the funds transferred to their name for a payment that is less than that of the $2,300 currently being held by Siebel. Basically, I can’t currently use this money that is tied up with Siebel, but instead of letting the money expire and go to waste I thought I would see if anyone who is interested in a course there would like a good deal on course pricing.

I have already spoken with administration at Siebel and they have given the ok for the fund to be transferred, it would only require a letter fro me asking them to transfer the funds.

If anyone is interested and would like to discuss further details please send me a PM. I was not even sure if this was the appropriate place in the forum to post this, so I don’t want to get in a discussion about any further specifics within this thread.

Thanks.

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So I found a nice spot with wild hops and hope to score some rhizomes. The question is, where should I dig and what should I dig for? Also, what should I do to ready my new plant for the next season? We have frigid snowy winters so I was thinking about doing it indoors.

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Anyone use New Zealand Pacific Jade (alpha ~ 13%) for the 60 minute/full boil addition? I’m trying to brew a bitter on the cheap and have 1oz of this stuff in the fridge. Nothing else I have would fit the style. For a late addition and perhaps a keg hop, I’m looking at Willamette.

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Bottling is a big pain and I think that bottle carbonating adds some negative characteristics. Plus all these bottles take up too much room. So I’m thinking about the switch. First of all, can you lay a corny keg on its side in the fridge? Will it fit? And second do you think kegging homebrew tastes better then bottled? Also if there is a good website or other source on kegging homebrew, I would love to know. Thanks in advance!

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I split a 12g batch of barley wine into two carboys for secondary–one is a glass carboy, the other is a better-bottle. Three days ago I dry hopped both carboys with 3 oz of pellets (2 oz Cascade, 1 oz Amarillo). Today, the glass carboy barely has a thin layer of hops on top; it’s nearly all settled. However, the Better-Bottle has a solid 1/2″ of hops floating on the top. Any thoughts to why this is happening? How will this impact the aroma of each carboy?

I racked to the glass carboy second and I did suck some yeast on that one. Would the more flocculant yeast bond with the hop particles and drag them to the bottom, as they settle out?

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So I brewed this batch but it came out not so very good. the body is weak and the finish is all bitter with no rewarding hops characters other than aroma. I’m considering an experiment since the brew is only just drinkable and not enjoyable. I’m taking this beer back to the fermentor. What if I tossed in a malt extract with some short boil times for the hops (5mins or less) and another round of yeast then dry hopped with Citra? Has anyone ever tried this kind of thing before? If so what were the results and what might anyone suggest? I’m not really concerned about wrecking an already wrecked batch so if anyone was thinking about replying with reasons why not to do so, please don’t bother unless it’s to caution against the loss of human life.

OG: 1.057
FG: 1.008
SRM: 22.7
IBU: 6.4
Fermentation Data: 2 Weeks Primary 2 Weeks Secondary Dry Hop 65-68 degrees
Yeast: Safale US-05
Base Malt: White Wheat and 2-Row

Type: All Grain
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 6.5 gal
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Brew Pot (6+gal) and Igloo/Gott Cooler (5 Gal)
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.0

5.00 lb White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 50.0 %
4.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 40.0 %
1.00 lb Caravienne Malt (22.0 SRM) Grain 10.0 %

0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [8.90%] (First Wort Hop) Hops 9.1 IBU
0.25 oz Amarillo Gold [8.90%] (55 min) Hops 7.7 IBU
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.90%] (15 min) Hops 7.8 IBU
0.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.90%] (5 min) Hops 3.1 IBU
0.20 oz Amarillo Gold [8.90%] (0 min) Hops -

2.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.90%] (Dry Hop 2 weeks)

Mash Profile

Mash Name: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge Total Grain Weight: 10.00 lb

Mash at 153.0 F 60 min

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Hi everyone. I need your help in a silly online recipe contest. I wasn’t going to enter, but I saw the prize and really wanted to win it for my husband Kevin, who has built me a deck this summer and puts up with my nonsense on a regular basis.
The prize is:

* Large Big Green Egg: World’s Best Smoker and Grill!
* EdgeStar Dual Tap Kegerator from Kegerator.com
* Omaha Steaks Classic Pack
* One-year membership to Beer of the Month Club
* Kegerator.com “Double Tap” T-Shirt

So, if you could PLEASE follow this link, register quickly, then vote, I would appreciate it (it only takes 20 seconds and they WON’T send you anything!) http://draftmag.com/recipecontest/

Please rate MY recipe, Spicy Thai Chicken Burgers with Goat Cheese on Naan by JKMillerInc, “6 Pints” and rate EVERYONE ELSE’S recipe “1 Pint”. It’ll bring my score up and their score down.

I’m REALLY far behind but I think I can make it with your help!

The deadline is Tuesday. I really want to win this for Kevin.

Thank you,
Jamie

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The label says ale on it any ideas why?

Thank for the help!

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Here’s the current list of participating breweries. More TBA as they confirm:

Ale Industries
Russian River Brewing
Marin Brewing
Third Street AleWorks
Blue Frog Grog & Grill
Black Diamond Brewing
Grand Teton Brewing
Gordon Biersch Brewing
Iron Springs Pub & Brewery
Speakeasy Ales & Lagers
Two Rivers Ciders

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Bay-Area-Cra…129573180396415

http://bayareacraftbeerfestival.com/

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I’m making the Impatient Man’s Lambic and I’m having a difficult time with the souring. I followed the instructions but I cooled only to 125 and not 120 before adding the grain for souring. Here I am 16 plus hours later and there’s not a sign of souring or infection at all. Does anyone have experience with this?

The way I see it, the possible explanations are that my thermometer is off and I killed the bugs by adding the grains at too high a temperature or that I’m being impatient. The wort looks and tastes just like it did last night before I added the grain. I realize that the process is exponential and it may take off any minute but I’m ready to boil it now damn it.

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What are some off flavors that can develop due to improper mash ph?…I’m still trying to nail down the problem i’m having with off flavors…

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What yeast would make a nice malty Porter.

1968 ESB or 1084 Irish or others?

Need a good Porter recipe for all grain.

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Is there a reliable method for converting extract or all-grain recipes to a partial mash recipe? Has anyone done this? What were the results? I’ve heard of a conversion of: .7 lbs for every pound of grain…not sure.

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Racked off from my primary to the keg last night and found I went from 1.054 to 1.019 in 11 days. The yeast used was US-05, temp of fermentation was 65F. Mash consisted of 88% 2-row pale and 10% cara pils and started at 163F and ended at 158F. I was shooting for a higher mash temp to provide body, etc. . but did not anticipate this kind of impact to attenuation level. I was expecting to hit 1.014/1.015. Does my process back up the reason for such a low attenuation level? The activity in the primary looked complete within 5 days and I left for another 6 so the yeast could clean themselves up. I’ve never used US-05 but I see other posting where the levels were well within 73-77% value range.

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So, rather than the who is brewing post how about a who will be brewing post?

I am planning something with 30 lbs of grain. Maybe try a Parti-Gyle ? Still haven’t done one, but it seems like a fun challenge.

http://www.brewingtechniques.com/library/b…2.2/mosher.html

So what are your brewing plans?

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Hey Brew Board! I’m more of a lurker than a poster, but I’m looking for some recipe feedback and was hoping some of you may be able to give your $0.02. It’s a beer I’m making in celebration of my new son (to be born in October), so I’d like to get it right! It’s intended to be on the line between a Northern English Brown and a Brown Porter.

———-
Owen’s Oat Brown Ale
Size: 6 Gal.
Boil Time: 60 Min.
Efficiency: 65%
Est OG: 1.052
Est IBU: 23.9

Grain:
9 lbs - Maris Otter
1 lb - Flaked Oats
0.75 lb - Brown Malt (65L)
0.75 lb - Special Roast (50L)
0.75 lb - Victory Malt (25L)
0.5 lb - Crystal 40
0.25 lb - Pale Chocolate Malt (200L)

Hops:
1.2 oz - East Kent Goldings (5%AA) - 60 Min.
0.5 oz - East Kent Goldings (5%AA) - 5 min.

Yeast: WLP013 London Ale - Ferment at 68F

Mash: Single Infusion at 152F for 60 min.

———-

Some notes:
-Thinking about Carastan (dark) instead of C40.
- Debating on whether to use London Ale Yeast or WLP002 English. London has more attenuation, and I’d like this beer to get down to the 1.012-13 range.
- Not sure if 0.75 lb of each will be too much for the Brown, Special and Victory.

Thoughts?

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Would this yeast make a good porter or what should I use in Wyeast for porters.

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I’m looking to make a greman Alt and need a good German sub for Aromatic in recipe.

And is Carawheat - just a German wheat?

Please advise

Ein Prosit

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Finally back to brewin!! I live in an old house that can reach temps of 80, so I took a couple months off. My brew room staying around 70 now, so it’s time to brew today. Doing a double batch of english brown ale. I’m stoked to be getting back at it. I’m sure my friends have missed it!!

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I’ve been brewing for a while but never brewed a lager. This is my first one and it hasn’t done anything for about 40 hours.
OG 1.065
yeast: wyeast 2206
I had a 2000 ml flask that I made a starter with. After it was done I racked the beer off the top and dumped cool wort over it again…then I did it again. The slurry at the bottom was probably in the 400-500 ml range (1 1/2-2 cups). The starter was noot rockin when it was pitched. I got delayed and the starter was done fermenting by a several days when it had been pitched. Just prior to pitching I put it on the stir plate for a couple of hours in hopes that it would help wke them up again.
The wort was oxygenated in-line with O2.
The only thing I can come up with is that they yeast was in a deep sleep when it got pitched. As I said I’ve only brewed ales up to this point so for all I know this is typical but it seems like I should see some activity by now.

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Suds on the shore beer festival here in Michigan this past sat. The first brew I tasted was one of the best I have ever had. It was a honey rye beer. Being a bee keeper I rounded up the local Micro brewery Brew Master and had him try it. He was very impressed and had the other members of his crew try it. This will be another outlet for my honey and I cant wait to see if he can make something close

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I can get the fruit from two hop plants, but the variety is unknown. I don’t know that I want to go through the trouble of harvesting them, if they’re ones I don’t like to use. Should I be able to tell from smelling them on the vine, whether they’re citrus/NW, English, noble, etc.? They’re not free but they’re cheap. Is there some way to tell what kind of hops these are?

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10 gallons of Orange Cherry Hefe (modified version of the Blood Orange Hefe) everyone seems to love this stuff and I usually get the comment “Wow, you should really sell this stuff” when someone drinks it for the first time Anyway, first brew on my new brew sculpture. It’s a bit crude at this point.. I have a control pad, but nothing is hooked up to it. My pump isn’t hooked up but I’m only doing extract for this so I don’t really care… I have dreams

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Sounds cool. Can’t wait to see ‘em…

http://www.probrewer.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=18166

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banjo burner

I need to update my burner, Does anyone know if I can use the the banjo burner above and mount it in my old Banjo cooker without any modification to either?

This is a pic of my burner.

The burner is just attached with one bolt directly under the center of the burner unit.

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Looking for a recipe for Heart of Darkness any one know of one that is close or right on?

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I have had a stainless fermenter for a couple of years and this is the first time that I have noticed a white film on the inside of it. It just looks like fog adhered to the walls. It is very stubborn. I tried getting it off with a PBW soak which usually cleans the heck out of everything. Is there a cleaner that i should have on hand for this type of stuff. I recently moved so the water may be causing it.
I’m brewing today so I hope it doesn’t mess up my beer. I think I try to attack it with a scotch pad as I brew and see if I can get it off. Aside form that I’ll just hope that a good soaking with starsan will do the trick.
Thanks
Zac

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