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I need to update my burner, Does anyone know if I can use the the banjo burner above and mount it in my old Banjo cooker without any modification to either?
This is a pic of my burner.
The burner is just attached with one bolt directly under the center of the burner unit.
Looking for a recipe for Heart of Darkness any one know of one that is close or right on?
I have had a stainless fermenter for a couple of years and this is the first time that I have noticed a white film on the inside of it. It just looks like fog adhered to the walls. It is very stubborn. I tried getting it off with a PBW soak which usually cleans the heck out of everything. Is there a cleaner that i should have on hand for this type of stuff. I recently moved so the water may be causing it.
I’m brewing today so I hope it doesn’t mess up my beer. I think I try to attack it with a scotch pad as I brew and see if I can get it off. Aside form that I’ll just hope that a good soaking with starsan will do the trick.
Thanks
Zac
so i got my kegerator kit in last Friday and got it all set up and i even got the the fridge painted. i think it looks nice for what i will use it for, but my frustration is i saw no leaks when i set it up but i came out and checked on it a few days later and i was down to 400 lbs as appose to the 900 my 20lb tank had when i started. i re-checked everything and only saw a small leak on one of the tanks but that was only after i depressurized it and re-pressurized it. so i reset the seal and no leak again.. one faucet seems to be a bit finicky but it does turn off. now i have everything pressurized and separated hoping i will see what depressurizes first. what should i be looking at first?
Edit: went out an checked the gauges and the high pressuer gauge now says 700 lbs and the low pressure is holding steady for the last few hours.
I will recheck in the morning
As a tradesman and an Engineer I put a lot of stock in experience. I look to my peers a lot for guidance when I know that I need it. I have come to this forum quite often and found only the best of advice. My experience this weekend (brewed 2 beers) reminded me of something that I thought I would share:
Trust the Wyeast Smack Pack - even if the damn thing doesn’t inflate.
I love using both White Labs and Wyeast for my liquid yeast. Both have been great. I have mostly used White Labs simply because on my first use of Wyeast I did not get the bag to inflate. I buy a lot of kits because I am always learning and a good majority come with Wyeast. Of all the smack packs I have used (many) I have only ever gotten 1 to fully inflate. ALL have performed awesome. I do make sure to aerate the wort well (I use pure oxygen) so that I am giving it the best shot possible.
So, for everyone that may be fearful of using Wyeast because it doesn’t inflate (like I was), trust that even if it doesn’t you are still getting a great product. Follow your procedure and make the wort a great environment (temp and O2) and it will not fail. I had massive blow over today, from a pack that didn’t inflate…
Similar experiences?
Hello everyone, I had a question about the math involved in conditioning my beer. I asked many forums and never found a satisfactory answer. So, I found out on my own and posted it on my website if anyone is interested.
Hello-
I am going to try to brew a pumpkin oktoberfest this week (extract recipe). I have a couple questions about my pumpkin though. First, can I use a regular pumpkin or should it be a pie pumpkin? Do I put the shell in as well or do i have to dig around the shell? And lastly, should I bake the pumpkin first (the recipe adds the pumpkin at the start of the boil and about halfway through)?
Thanks
Huzzah! Once again, Byggvirs Big Beer Cup will at the Minnesota Renaissance Festival with judging on September 11th-12th.
Got that special historic beer recipe that you have been meaning to try out? We are accepting entries for historic beers, as well as other styles (including mead and ciders) appropriate for the time period. Entries accepted through Saturday, September 4th. Drop off/mailing locations at Midwest Supplies, Northern Brewer, and Still H2O in Minnesota.
Last year, we had over 150 entries, with pairs of hand-made drinking vessels, gift certificates, and other prizes given out for Best of Show, as well as First and Second Runner-Up.
We are also looking for judges or stewards of all skill levels to help at the contest, which will be on site and you get into the Renaissance Festival for free the day you help out.
For more information about the contest, including a list of accepted brewing styles, entry information, and judge/steward sign-up, check out our website: www.rennfestbeercup.com.
We hope to see you there dont forget your codpiece.
Gera Exire LaTour (aka crankycat)
Organizer, Byggvir’s Big Beer Cup
Minnesota Renaissance Festival
The latest brewday conversation led to a discussion about whether you can ferment a lager in the kegerator. Size limitations would make it much better if the fermenter could be a Corny. I found a keg lid that’s made for fermenting. It has an airlock attached.
Have any of you used this for fermentations? What’s the maximum volume you can use? I’d imagine you can’t ferment 5 gallons of lager in a Corny without clogging up the airlock.
The Underground Brewers of Connecticut will host the 2010 Southern New England Regional Homebrew Competition (SNERHC 2010) on October 3. This is a BJCP-sanctioned event accepting beer, mead, and cider in all BJCP categories. Points count toward the New England Homebrewer of the Year award.
Complete information, official rules, on-line entry forms, and on-line registration for judges and stewards can all be found at http://www.undergroundbrewers.org.
I’ve heard multiple times that when dry hopping there is no need to worry about bacteria from the hops and that you can just pitch them in to the secondary as needed. Is this true and if so, why? It would seem that there would be all kinds of potential bacteria on them.
My guess is because by the time you dry hop, fermentation is effectively over and that there is not enough healthy yeast to “interact” with the bacteria.
If this is true, how about finishing hops? If you are using whole hops, I assume you need to jsut pitch them in during the last 10 minutes of the biol or so which would kill any bacteria.
Thanks
Hey everyone,
i have heard of barber shop businesses that offer free champagne with their haircut services. legal in Ca? they are technically not selling it. now what if it was Homebrew? is there a loop hole? does anyone have any info on this subject?
thanks.
My wife accidentally unplugged my beer storage locker (a 18 cu.ft. chest freezer) from my Johnson controller and plugged it back into the outlet bypassing the controller! Now, three days later, I go to get a fresh keg only to find out that I have beersickles instead. I also had a variety of bottles for guests that are all frozen as well.
What are my options? I am more concerned about the bottles as I do not want to serve anyone a flat beer. I am assuming that when the kegs thaw I can just re-check for CO2 and re-pressurize if needed….or am I wrong.
This has never happened to me before and I’m hoping someone has had the experience and can share their solution.
This weekend I was able to bottle up 6 separate Mr. Beer recipes in just under 7 hours, including kitchen cleanup! I bottled up 2 gallons each of the following recipes:
Father’s Day Cream Ale, Classic American Blonde Ale w/Pale Export, West Coast Pale Ale w/Pale Export, High Country Canadian Draft w/Pale Export, Cowboy Golden Lager w/Pale Export and last but not least one of my favorites Whispering Wheat Weizenbier w/Golden Wheat.
This time I also used my new Bottle Priming Calculator to determine the correct amounts of priming sugar to use for each different style of beer. I no longer followed the default priming sugar amount recommended by Mr. Beer’s instructions. I targeted 2.5 volumes for the Pale Ales and 3.6 volumes for the Weizenbier.
I made a starter Friday, planning on brewing yesterday or today (1 to 2 days later)
I’ll not be able to brew until Tuesday.
Should I feed my starter some more wort before Tuesday?
Would another 1/2 cup or 2 oz. be enough? (mixed into boiled & cooled water of course)
Should I pour 1/2 of the current starter out to make room for the addition of 2 more cups of wort?
thank you for any answers
I already have a CPVC manifold for my 72qt Coleman Xtreme 5 day cooler.(Roller Cooler)
I want to try a perforated stainless false bottom.
I asume no one makes these so I will probably have to fabricate this myself.
www.onlinemetals.com has small pieces of perforated stainless for sale which gives me a good place to start.
I am looking for tips from someone else who has already done this.
The bottom of this particular cooler is a little odd shaped due to the recessed wheel wells.
After force carbonating a keg to the desired (12 PSI @ 40F for a 2.47) level, I serve at 2-3 PSI, which means I purge off the 12 PSI, dispense, then I go back to the 12 PSI. I feel like I’m wasting a lot of gas, especially when the keg gets down to about 1/2 or lower.
How long will I maintain my desired carb level (at 40F) if I leave the pressure at 3PSI? Does anyone have a better method? Ideas, suggestions, recommendations?
I have a beer that has been lagering for about 5 mo’s now. In your opinion am I OK to bottle or should I re-yeast first?
Thanks
Gary
So a local business owner/friend likes my beer enough that he wants to build me a new sculpture. There are a few features I know I want to put in, and a lot of things I am not sure of.
He is doing this for me on his dime, so my aim is to be economical yet building a system that is going to be reliable after many brews. I was thinking that I would like to build an all electric system, or a system that can work with propane or methane. I also know I want to go with a pump driven system rather than gravity.
What other features have you found to be useful? Please feel free to share any thoughts you have.
Hey everyone,
im new to all-grain and i have a ph meter with auto-temp correction. now, am i looking for 5.1 - 5.3, or am i looking for 5.4 - 5.8 at corrected temp. according to john palmer the ph at mash temp is ~0.3 less than the mash ph at room temp. so would the meter be actually converting it automatically to room temp mash reading?
I kegged a beer on Saturday.
When I pour a glass, I get about 4-5 oz of beer then the line spurts gas (assume CO2), then some more beer, then another spurt of gas, etc…
This has happened from the first glass on Saturday to the last one last night.
Any ideas what could be causing this?
I have a 5 gallon corni keg, 25′ of tubing (22′ of which is coiled in the kegerator) and a perlick-type faucet.
The keg is at just below 20psi at around 45 deg F.
Thanks.
The Dayton Alefest is August 28th 2010, 2-6pm, I’ll be at a table pouring somewhere in the madness.
If anyone is going and wants to say hi please PM me for a phone number.
Ready to keg my first beer but need clarity on whether or not I put the priming sugar into the keg as I would into the bottling bucket? Any help for the new kegger
hi all,
I’ve been brewing a few AG batches now love the result but now I need to pinpoint my volumes. I set promash for batch size 21L ( sorry for metric 
) but end up short of 5 liters or so on every batches but been hitting my target gravity. Instead of struggling with losses and putting more water (dilluting) in my brewing process should I simply make my batch size bigger and leave beer behind and avoid trub siphoning.
So how you guys set promash? any pointers?
thx
Jo
I have ben buying on line for years and finally hook up with a local homebrew shop.
Some of the pricing is bit pricing on hops and yeast vs on line.
My question is he has Weyerman pale malt for a full sack.
Never used it so how is it and what is a typical price for #55.
Hi brewers…
A neighbor in his incredible wisdom planted some hops spring 2009. (Golden Nugget).
The great news is that they are now ready for picking.
The question I have is, what is the best way to harvest them - - - should we pick them and immediately use them during a brew session, or
should they be picked and dried/crushed and stored in a cool, dark place? Or what?
How best to harvest & store is our big question.
Thanks to any who can help.
I found a recipe for a cream ale that calls for a pound of lactose. Do I add this to the boil and if so how long into the boil should I add it?
I have been brew extract with specialty grains for sometime, and would like to switch to all-grain. Does anyone know of a simple “KIT” setup that doesn’t cost a fortune?
Thanks
Does anyone see an issue using #4 LDPE As A Large Primary for a 25 gallon batch for a short period, say 4 weeks?
Rubbermaid BRUTE 32 gal Specifically
Current fermenter buckets are #2 HDPE
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