Beer Feeds

Ive been using Hops Direct for my hop supply. Can anyone offer a list of volume hop suppliers that sell in pound+ qtys direct to consumer at reasonalble prices?
Thx.

Hi folks,

I want to try making a blue chimay clone. I've come up with this idea. Let me know what you guys think about this recipe:


Recipe Specifics
Batch Size (Gal): 5.00 Wort Size (Gal): 5.00
Total Grain (Lbs): 15.00
Anticipated OG: 1.087 Plato: 20.95
Anticipated SRM: 19.4
Anticipated IBU: 27.7
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75 %
Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Grain/Extract/Sugar
% Amount Name Origin Potential Color - SRM
6.7% 1.00 lbs. Candi Sugar (clear) Generic 1.046 1
10.0% 1.50 lbs. Wheat Malt Germany 1.039 2
8.3% 1.25 lbs. Special B Malt Belgian 1.030 120
0.3% 0.05 lbs. Chocolate Malt America 1.029 350
60.0% 9.00 lbs. Pilsener Germany 1.038 2
3.3% 0.50 lbs. Aromatic Malt Belgium 1.036 25
11.3% 1.70 lbs. Munich Malt Germany 1.037 8
Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.

Hops
Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
0.25 oz. Hallertau Hersbrucker Pellet 4.75 1.3 15 min.
0.90 oz. Cluster Pellet 7.00 23.5 First WH
0.25 oz. Goldings - E.K. Whole 4.75 0.7 1 min.
0.25 oz. Goldings - E.K. Pellet 4.75 1.3 15 min.
0.25 oz. Saazer Pellet 4.30 0.7 1 min.


Mash at 154 F for 60 min. Then decotion to mash out at 168.

Use of yeast recultivated from a bottle of blue chimay (Starter of 1,5 liter)

Ferment at 68-70 F => 10 days in primary and 2 weeks in secondary.

* I will possibly add gypsum into my water before brewing.

Just finished brewing an American Wheat that will soon get 26 lbs of Cranberries and Cherries. A Cran-Cherry Weiss if you will.

Gary

I used coriander and ginger as an experiment on my last batch. I definitely used too much ginger as everyone that tastes this is offended. I used 1 oz. I was trying to do the liquid stupid recipe. Has anyone ever used this for a 5 gal batch? If so, how much?

Also, I want to spice my next batch up a bit. Any suggestions for spice additions?

I'm looking for help/suggestions on saving a batch of beer. The beer *tastes* great... just as it should (a clone of the Saint Arnold's Christmas Ale). The problem is that the beer is FLAT. This was my 3rd batch of extract brewing. At bottling I primed the 5 gallons of beer with 4 oz of corn sugar and 0.25 oz of gelatin.

I suspect the gelatin is what messed me up, but that's a subject for another thread...

ANYWAY, I am now looking for solutions to save this batch & make it drinkable for guests.

I've been looking at the Tap-A-Draft because it looks like the only small system that will actually carbonate the beer (and fit in my refrigerator). Since this brew has been sitting in the fridge for over a month, I'm guessing that the yeast are completely knocked out & there's no way I'm going to naturally carbonate the beer at this point. I'm prepared to pour a bunch of bottles into the TAD & see what happens, but I'm wondering if there are any better solutions out there...

Thanks for your help!

I brewed an orval clone (Oval - Northern Brewer) and the base beer turned out great. Lovely soft malt, and great Styrian Goldings character from the dry hop.

I racked it to a corny keg, added 1/2 cup corn sugar, and a smack pack of Brett B.

It's been in the corny about 5 weeks. Tasted today....

HOLY GRAPEFRUIT BATMAN!!! The beer is dominated with a tart/acidic/sour taste of grapefruit followed by the leathery horse-saddle Brett B character. The base beer seems to be "gone"....just hints of the hop resins.

This is my first attempt at using Brett B. I'm not sure if I screwed up (too much sugar?), got some other infection (but this is definitely grapefruit vs. the apple cider vinegar like character of a lactic infection), or if I just need to wait?

Hi guys,

Does anyone know if MoreBeer or Northern Brewer sell extract kits, or all grain wort kits that come in a box
where there is no need to add water ?

I use Festa Brew brand kits up here in Canada, they come in a box, contain a bag inside that has 6 gallons of
all grain wort, and you just add this to your fermenter, throw in the yeast and away you go.

I cannot find this type of kit anywhere on MoreBeer or Northern Brewer..... anyone know if these are indeed available ?

I have a friend who wants to get into Brewing, and this is the way I wanted him to start out....

I have checked MoreBeer for just plain old extract tins ( like I used to use in the old days ) and don't see these later.

I do NOT want any kit that comes with a grain bag included in the kit - this is out of his comfort zone. I want an easy
kit, and just don't want to steer him the wrong way.

Thanks for any help. He lives in Baton Rouge Louisiana by the way.

Hi guys,

anyone know if there are any homebrew stores in Baton Rouge Louisiana ?

I have a friend who lives there, and wants to get into homebrewing. He told me yesterday
that he called around, and found all home brew places closed.

Not sure what his next step is. I have been brewing with Festa Brew kits up here in Canada lately,
these are kits that are 100% all grain wort, NO addition of water needed... kits are 6 gallons each
for $29.xx each. I wanted to get him started using a simple kit like this ( no boiling required either )
but seems a no go. He called MoreBeer and they say they do not sell kits like that. Strange.

I just finished building a cold smoker attachment to my vertical smoker. My wife wants smoked cheese and this unit adds only a couple of degrees so smoking below 70 is now possible. I was thinking about cold smoking malts. This should add very little color but lots of flavor.

Could use some direction here. Everything I've been reading on how to control wort temp as it exits the plate chiller is all over the place. So does one control the wort temp by adjusting the water on the input or output side. Or, does one control it by the wort input or output? Help. First time using plate chiller next weekend.

I just bought a 20 gal closed lid #2 HDPE barrel to feremtn in. It was used to store olives and has an aroma. Ive cleaned it with PBW and Oxiclean separately. Any suggestions on what to use to get the olive aroma out?

Is this a concern?

Not Your Dad’s Beer recently did a review of one of our more unique beers, Carpenter’s Mikan Ale. Check it out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeCTj_GJBJA

Has anyone done this before? I am thinking about adding it to a berliner Weisse that I added yeast to yesterday. Basically I sour mashed this beer for 3 days before boiling it yesterday and pitching the yeast, my gravity was too high for a berliner Weisse (1.044) so I had to add a little water to bring it down but at the same time I lost a little of the sourness. I am serving this beer on Oct 29th for a Halloween party so time is not on my side. I was thinking of adding yogurt culture to the already fermenting beer but have no idea how to go about this, any info is greatly appreciated.

I'm installing a N2 system in my beer fridge because I want to push better stouts. My question is: Do I force carbonate with N2 or just push? What if I use beer gas? Thanks for any advice - might be a simple answer but I don't know anyone that has an N2 system!

I have two full kegs on tap in the same fridge (same temp and pressure in both).
One keg is a lower-gravity English Pale (4.5% ABV), and the other is a high-gravity Belgian Dark Strong (10% ABV).

I'm trying to force carbonate the Belgian Dark Strong to the appropriate level (2.3-2.9 vol. CO2) before bottling, and it just won't get there.
It's been sitting at 35F with 15 PSI on it for about a week now. Carbonation chart says this should yield around 3.02 volumes of CO2.
When I pour a glass of the English Pale I get a big, foamy head on it.
When I pour a glass of the Belgian Dark Strong, there is very little head and it doesn't seem very carbonated.
Can anybody explain how this might be?
Does the gravity play a part in this? I was assuming that the two beers should land at the same level of carbonation, regardless of the gravity.

I realize the English Pale, by style, doesn't want to be this carbonated. I threw that keg on to prove to myself that my temp and PSI readings weren't way off. They don't seem to be off since this one ended up about where I would have expected....

Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers!

I have not checked in for a while...

Summers here in ATL are really not conducive to brewing so back at it like a boss...

Did the Punkin ale two Fridays ago...yummy
Doing a vanilla bourbon porter right now
SN Celebration clone goes maybe next week or the week after...

The electric brewery is still performing flawlessly...Thanks PJ!

Hope ya'all are doing well...happy brewing!
Carl

Electric brewery

Homebrewers and Judges!


The time has finally come! The entry window for Sunshine Challenge '11 is open and we are waiting for your beers. You have until October 26 to get your entries to our lovely and beautiful registrar or to Heart's Homebrew. The homebrew railroad will be picking up at Commander Saaz on October 15 and at Southern Brewing (Tampa) on October 20th. I believe representatives from most of the Florida homebrew clubs will be at Commander Saaz. If you can't make it to CS, please get your entries to someone in your club that is going.

If shipping, please send your entries to:
Sunshine Challenge
C/o Kathleen Hicks
1461 La Paloma Cir
Winter Springs, FL 32708
Note: This is also the location of prejudging. See website for prejudging dates.

We have a ton of great prizes this year from a ton of great sponsors. Not to mention, the BOS beer will be brewed at the Shipyard Emporium in Winter Park. Due to the large number of expected entries, we are having two weekends of pre-judging.

The online entry system can be found at cfhb.org

Cheers,
JoshB
Competition Organizer

I used American Ale yeast and had a huge temperature fluctuation in my basement while in the primary (yes, I'm now looking into getting an old fridge). Anyway, it's now in the secondary and I've already noticed the off flavor. My question before I toss the batch, is there any way the off flavors will subside with age?

I have a homemade torpedo devised for dry hopping like SN. It is an inline dairy filter. It is a try-clover canister with screen filters inside, you probably have seen them around. It is about 18" long and 5" wide. Beer goes in one end and out the other, passing through the filter chamber on the way. The chamber can hold a pretty good amount of hops.

I am looking for process advice. What I think I need to do is ferment the beer and then after primary fermentation is complete, drop out the yeast and then recirculate the beer through the torpedo. My plan is to pump it out the bottom, down throughout the torpedo and back into the fermenter through a tube in the top. It sounds like a day is probably enough from what I have been able to find, but I have no experience to draw from on this. I have also heard different advice related to the temperature of the beer in this process - cold or cool?

Like I said, I am all ears on this one. I will gladly share what I learn, but want to at least start in the right neighborhood.

Here is an image of the type of filter unit I am talking about.

I am brewing a 10 Gal. batch of Winter Warmer today and the recipe calls for a small amount (13 oz.) of ESB pale. I have the malts below on hand and no time to go to the LHBS. What would you substitute?

Maris Otter
Dark Munich
Crystal 20
Crystal 120
Crystal 150
Brown
Light Munich
Aromatic
Vienna
Special Roast
Chocolate

Hi all!

We do have categories for Meads, Melomels, Pyments and Cysers.

For the past 37 years we've gotten only a few honey-based entries and this year we're really trying to get the word out.

The 2011 Cellarmasters 38th Annual US Amateur Winemaking Competition will be held on November 19, 2011.

Entries must be received between 10/14/2011 and 11//11/2011 at the Home Beer, Wine and Cheesemaking Shop in Woodland Hills, CA. (www.homebeerwinecheese.com)

Entry forms and rules are posted on our website at: http://www.CellarmastersLA.org.

Cellarmasters has been running this competition since the club was founded 38 years ago. The competition is an all-volunteer endeavor on our part and it's one of, if not the, oldest home wine competitions in the US.

Thanks and good luck to all!

Andy

I’m not one to follow receipts and like jumping out there and doing stuff outside the norm (maybe it's my lack of experience, but hey it's fun), however I'd like to get this one right the first time. I have a question about some ingredients I haven't used before. I'd like to incorporate cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg into a holiday/Winter Ale. I've seen many different suggestions of amounts and wort addition times, including for the lack of better words, 'dry hopping' the ingredient in the secondary. I want a very subtle and not over powering flavor profile. I'd still like the malts and hops to be out front. I was thinking 1 cinnamon stick, one nutmeg whole, and 0.25 oz of ginger root. All added to the boil at 15 min for a 5 gallon batch. What are your thoughts? Thanks.

Another recipe in the works...

I want to try the new Delta Leaf hops. I also want to try my new hop screen in combination with my whirlpool chiller as an in-kettle hopback. Further, I want to try a new idea I have for a home hop torpedo (such as SN created). So I am looking for balanced bitterness in per portion to a German Pilsner, with significant hop aroma from the kettle/whirlpool/hopback addition and the torpedo dry hops.

Please pass along thoughts, ideas and impressions for this work in process.

Dawn of a New Day Imperial Pilsner
23-A Specialty Beer



Size: 22 gal
Efficiency: 75.0%
Attenuation: 75.0%
Calories: 232.7 kcal per 12.0 fl oz

Original Gravity: 1.070 (1.026 - 1.120)
|===============#================|
Terminal Gravity: 1.017 (0.995 - 1.035)
|================#===============|
Color: 5.59 (1.0 - 50.0)
|=========#======================|
Alcohol: 6.88% (2.5% - 14.5%)
|=============#==================|
Bitterness: 59.7 (0.0 - 100.0)
|=================#==============|

Ingredients:
60.0 lb Pilsner Malt
250 g Delta Leaf (6.5%) - added during boil, boiled 60.0 min
100 g Delta Leaf (6.5%) - added during boil, boiled 20.0 min
100 g Delta Leaf (6.5%) - steeped after boil
100 g Delta Leaf (6.5%) - added dry to primary fermenter

Schedule:
Ambient Air: 70.0 °F
Source Water: 60.0 °F
Elevation: 0.0 m


Results generated by BeerTools Pro 1.5.1

I have a 1/2 price Brew Your Own subscription offer for anyone interested.

Working on plans for a 7bbl brewhouse for a brewpub. Thanks to this forum, my initial idea of using a Sabco system is not looking like the smart idea I thought it was. I intend to focus primarily on pint sales in the taproom and maybe kegs to local establishments. Was only trying (or at least thought I was trying) to reduce risk while allowing demand for beers to build. Now it seems my labor cost would kill me if that demand builds and I'm unprepared for it.
So now, I'm back to square one and looking into fermenters now.

With the exception of stainless looking so much nicer than plastic, is there any other advantage "beer-wise" to using stainless over plastic? Any aftertaste with plastic; i.e. like drinking from a plastic cup over pint glass? Since the beer only stays in fermenter for a week or so, does it really matter? Can't they both be cleaned just as well or can tiny residual stuff/flavors get imbedded in the plastic over time. I would think stainless would last longer than plastic.

Think I'm beginning to answer my own questions.

Can I cut cost by going with plastic initially and then upgrade to stainless the 2nd year or when sales projections are achieved. Am I trying to cut cost in the wrong areas?

What is the biggest difference between a Bright Beer Tank and a Serving Tank?
I would assume that they both are mostly used in a brewpub environment. Are they typically reserved for most popular selling recipes as a means to dispense larger volumes of a particuliar style?

Then are the lower selling recipes simply stored in maybe smaller "grundy" tanks or simply kegs?

I'm working on a business plan to start a brewpub. Looking to start small and use the Sabco Brew Magic system like Sam Caglione did with Dogfish. With its consistent repeatability, I think I could crank out at least 9 batches/week for the pub with one system. Anyone know anything about running a brewpub?

Anyone have a source for a 30 gal plastic fermenter with air tight lid?

Hello Brewers!

Been brewing a black lager with WL San Francisco lager yeast. Pitched yeast at 70 F, immediately dropped to 55 F within 24 hours and then let it ferment out for 13 days. Was going to rack to secondary today and noticed that it only fermented down to 1.020. My target is 1.013. So stir it up good, put the lid back on and put it back into the fridge.

Question? Do you think it is a stuck fermentation? Do you think it is just not done fermenting?

Thanks, Chris

http://www.winemakermag.com/stories/articl...the-strain-game

for the more irregular brewers out there