Beer Feeds

This has probably been asked before, but how long do I need to boil a starter? I would think that just getting it boiling is enough to kill any germs. After that, is there any point to continuing to boil?

So today I got my second package of my order for my brass QD's and I was wondering what people have used to clean them. This is first time use just preparing for this weekends brew session. Thanks for your help.

Sampler

How do you identify the type cornie keg you have and which poppet valve should be installed in that keg?? I notice that most vendors sell 3 different poppets.

Is there a difference in the O-rings that different kegs require?

I am getting some occasional foaming that I cannot explain and I understand that this could be the source. (And, I'm pretty sure I can balance my system correctly.)

Thanks

Just got my beer gun in the mail.

Is it necessary to sanitize the beer gun, bottles and cap (beyond maybe a hot water rinse) to draw 2-3 bottles out of my keg for consumption a few hours later? The beer's already fermented, and what could grow in that amount of time? Most people don't sanitize growlers before getting a fill to be consumed over a few days, so why bother with sanitizing bottles?

Hey, I thik a fruit fly got into one of my primary buckets but in any case I am racking them tonight and I opened to check on em and noticed a slight vinegary smell and a new layer of foamy substance on the wort after the krausen had dissipated. Sorry no pic right now, but it is definitely an infection of some kind, have heard acetobacter mentioned. Will rack and leave the floating infection behind - question is has anyone salvaged wort that was infected like this before??

Six of my friends and I are joining together to buy a 60 gallon red wine barrel from a local vineyard to age beer in. Eventually we want to do sours in it, but we are considering doing an Imperial Porter first.

Has anyone dealt with a wine barrel? Any tips or good resources? One of the guys is a brewer at Old Dominion and has experience with bourbon barrels, but I imagine one time used bourbon barrels are different than an old wine barrel. Particuarly something like cleaning.

I've been rereading through the Wild Brews chapter on barrels, but any additional insight from people who have done it would be great.

After doing a beer tasting and trying a mocha porter i decided to give it a shot. Here is my idea. I still have one batch to make ahead of it so i am probably 2 or 3 months out from making it. Your assistance is appreciated.

Fermentables
6lbs Dark Dry Malt Extract
2lbs Munich Dark ****this is a big holdup. not sure i should use a dark wheat or another grain in this place****
1lb American Chocolate
.5lb Crystal 60L
1lb Unsweetened cocoa powder


Hops
1oz Amarillo (whole) 45 minutes
1oz Amarillo (whole) 15 minutes

Yeast
Whitelabs Essex Ale WLP022 (assuming i can get it - seasonal Jan/Feb)
-or-
Whitelabs English Ale WLP002

I am going to use a pound of coffee beans in the secondary - not sure if i am going to go with some chocolate beans or just straight coffee beans. i will determine by the amount of chocolate taste when transferring to the secondary.


Additionally i have a question. How do i sanitize the coffee beans? I was thinking i could add them to some brandy or sherry to add a bit of additional flavors or if i wanted to keep with the chocolate maybe trying to use some kalua. Any ideas/suggestions/experience with this or any ideas for the recipe.

EDIT: Additional information as follows
As per tasteybrew.com
OG 1.053
FG 1.014
IBU 37
SRM 50
ABV 5.0

Lately I have been noticing water in my chest freezer. Right next to the hump on the left side. I have it set to 40F, and it shuts off and starts normally.

Should I be concerned? Should I check something for leaks?

Hello everybody. I work for a small company called Embedded Control Concepts, specializing in engineering services. I'm also an avid homebrewer, and my process has definitely improved by reading threads on this forum. I've created a web-based temperature control system that is now essential to my brewday equipment. I've built this system from the ground up to be user friendly, and of course expandable / future proof. The plan is to offer the system to fellow homebrewers if there is enough interest.

Here's some of the specs of the BCS-460 Temperature Control System.
-Web based user interface
-4 temperature probe inputs
-Data logging with interactive charts
-6 outputs for relay control, 4 inputs

For additional screenshots and example systems, check out our website: http://www.embeddedcontrolconcepts.com

The BCS system is still in the Beta stage of development. We have working prototypes and the hardware is stable, but there are still plenty of firmware bugs to be worked out. We need your help! We're looking for people from the Brewboard community to be part of the Beta test program. You will receive a beta prototype of the BCS-460, under the agreement that you will stress the system and report back any problems. We would also like any suggestions for features not implemented that you would find useful. Since we only have a limited supply of beta prototypes available, the current plan is to select one person from this forum.

Ideally the Beta testers would have a somewhat "automation ready" system. In other words, a HERMS/RIMS system with pumps, heating elements or gas control valves, etc. The BCS system has the potential to be very powerful, so the more stuff you have to control, the better. Fermentation control and/or a keg system is also a plus, although not required. Your Brewboard reputation is also a huge factor, since we're giving away some fairly valuable equipment. We expect you to post your experiences for the benefit of others in the community, as well as get good discussions going for feature requests and suggestions.

What you get in return for you efforts:
(1) BCS-460 functioning beta prototype. Firmware can be updated when the production firmware is available.
(2) temperature probes
(2) Solid state relays

If you are interested in becoming a Beta tester, please post here or PM me. Include a brief description of your system, how you intend to use the BCS-460, and how you would get fellow members involved. If you have any questions, post on this thread and I'll answer as many as I can.

eccsynd
http://www.embeddedcontrolconcepts.com

This show is all about Pelican Brewery in Pacific City, OR. While on vacation, Vicki and I stopped in and was treated to a tour by Darron Welch. He also slipped us some beers for the show. Here are a couple of awards Pelican has won.

Everything,Now! is featured on the first and last song of the show. The other artists are below. Liquid Solutions can be found here.

DOWNLOAD SHOW #161

Short Pelican Brewery Interview from Jeffrey Meyer on Vimeo.

The Mommyheads
“Help Me” (mp3)
from “You’re Not A Dream”
(Bladen County Records)

Buy at iTunes Music Store
Buy at Rhapsody
Stream from Rhapsody
Buy at mTraks
More On This Album

Mindless Self Indulgence
“Never Wanted to Dance” (mp3)
from “If”
(The End Records)

Buy at iTunes Music Store
Buy at Napster
More On This Album

Dude Offline
“You Suck, You Drank My Beer” (mp3)
from “Nerd Love”
(AC Media, LLC)

Buy at iTunes Music Store
Buy at Rhapsody
Buy at Napster
Stream from Rhapsody
Buy at Puretracks
Buy at GroupieTunes
Buy at mTraks
More On This Album

Tokyo Police Club
“Nature Of The Experiment” (mp3)
from “A Lesson In Crime”
(Paper Bag Records)

Buy at iTunes Music Store
Buy at eMusic
Buy at Rhapsody
Buy at Napster
Stream from Rhapsody
Buy at Puretracks
Buy at Amazon
Buy at mTraks
Buy at Insound
More On This Album

Santogold
“L.E.S Artistes” (mp3)
from “L.E.S Artistes”
(Lizard King)

Buy at iTunes Music Store
Buy at Napster
More On This Album

Sitting here watching the debate and thought I would throw up some new pics of the BEER CAVE. Anyone else

Another quick month passes as daylight dwindles, however, the beers I received from Thirsty in the September Pass cause me not to notice the early twilight. Man, that guy's got some brews that any shelf in the country would pay to have in stock. Love this Pass. I've also got to put in a plug for MAZ, as well, who I met in the earlier days of the Pass, and recently begged to send me some more-and gawd, did he! Thus, I was double blitzed, uh, blessed and all is good.

Sign up Deadline-October 10
Shipping Deadline-October 24
The Rules fo the Pass:

1. Everybody wants homebrew, that's the main reason we're on this board. However, the inclusion of local commercial talent is not frowned upon, especially if it's unique, and it's good. Some of us live in areas that supply brew not seen in other parts. Just remember to check with your recipient to ensure the delivery is well received.

2. Shipping deadline is two weeks after the pairings are posted, which will also be at the end of day sign-up deadline. When you make the decision to participate there may be circumstances that stall your commitment-That is a much smaller problem when the receiver is apprised of that early on. If a receiver tells me that they did not get their Pass within two weeks of the shipping deadline, nor did they get a reason why this may have happened, that participant will join a present list of those that are no longer Pass worthy.


3. This is a month to month event. Passing one month when you have stock to share does not obligate you for the following month when you may be short. If you would like to participate this month just follow this post with a simple "I'm in".

4. To make it worthwhile for everyone there is a minimum cover charge of 4 bottles to be delivered.

5. You must be 21 years of age to participate.

6. Communicate as soon as the pairings are announced. Continue that communication so that the sender knows the shipment was received in good shape and, eventually what your perceptions are. This is a second (or first) homebrew club for many. Giving them your feedback will ensure that future Passes are even better.

mach5 and MtnBrewer have done a much better job than I describing the Pass process and shipping procedures in the Board's FAQ. Avail yourself of it if you have any questions before posting or sending.

Posted: by naproxen (44 minutes ago)

In life, there are winners and losers. The same goes for Flying Dog’s recent poetry contest. Chuck Snowdon may be our new Poet Laureate, but that doesn’t mean that the other entries were bollocks. Read Anthony Zak’s entry here, including what Ralph Steadman said about his poem. Even though he says it doesn’t feel quite finished, I certainly liked it. Plus there are some great morsels of wisdom contained here, like “Don’t ever pass on a free beer” and “only beer can tell you the truth.” Take a read for yourself.

Hey all,

I've been doing all grain batches lately, and though I've been doing all of the math by hand and getting fairly spot on results, I would like to try some software to help with more mashing/sparging calculations. I'd also like the program to help with recipe formulation, i.e. ibu's, srm, gravity, etc. So what is the good word on these programs. I've seen in BYO lately that beertools has a new version. Anyone try this?
I would also like the software to be reasonable in price and not take up a load of memory on my hard drive if possible.

Thanks for any input,

B.C.

I want to brew a pale ale that will be ready fairly quicklyand I'm going to try some new stuff as well. Looking for any suggestions or tweaks. Heres what I am working with:

Grains:

8lbs Pale Malt
1.5 lbs Rye Malt
1.5 lbs Carastan Malt

OG~1.058

Hops

1 oz Magnum (60 Min)
1 oz Tettnanger (20 min)
1 oz Tettnanger (0 min)

51.8 IBU's

OR

replace Tettnanger with Riwaka hops which I have been wanting to try, for a different taste. What do you think, noble hops or citrusy hops?
Honestly I am leaning towards the more floral/citrusy Riwaka hops

I was gonna use Wy 1056

TIA

Did a batch of pumpkin two weeks ago and when I took my first readings of gravity and ABV, my hydrometer read 5.5% potential ABV. I took another reading last night (and will bottle tonight) and my hydrometer read 2.5% ABV. My question is, how accurate are these ABV readings off a hydrometer?

Thanks!

I'm building a manifold for a mash tun, and I heard that sour mash and copper don't go together very well (metallic taste in the beer). So, I thought I'd solicit some advice before building the manifold.

Which is better: a copper or plastic manifold?, any other advice or tips would also be fantastic.

Thanks.

Posted: by UGADawgGuy (13 hours ago)

Posted: by Jw347 (16 hours ago)

Posted: by tag0519 (16 hours ago)

Ok, so I went to keg and bottle a Cream Ale that was 8 pounds 2 Row, 2 pounds flaked maize and 1 pound flaked barley. The maize and barley were added directly to the mash. I was trying out a new method of recirculating the mash with the water in the HLT (which is also my kettle) until I reached my desired gravity. When I hit 1.050, I stopped, drained the tun into the HLT/Kettle and started the boil. With 15 minutes before the end of the boil, I added Irish Moss and then ran it through my CFC. It got down to about 80 and then I let it set for several hours, when it got down into the mid 70's and I pitched my Safale 05. (This will not devolve into the merits or lack thereof of the 05. I still like it.) Fermentation was pretty much done in 3 days, but I let it sit on the yeast cake. I've done this before with no ill effects. But, when I opened the lid tonight, I was met with a surprise.

It didn't look or act like mold. If I had to describe it, it looked and felt like the protein, which would normally be found in the kettle. If there is one thing I consistently fail to do, its to give the wort a whirlpool and let it settle out. I don't know why I don't, I just forget I guess. The beer smelled fine and tasted fine, so I went ahead and put most of it in the keg and the rest in 12 bottles.

Any thoughts or ideas on this? I would post some pics, but I frankly don't know how. Somehow, I thought it would be easier.

A member at a club related meeting tonight made the statement that there is only 1 right answer to 98% of the questions related to brewing. I personally do not agree, but curious what the rest of you think...

Posted: by WeaponTheyFear (19 hours ago)

My regulator seems to be stuck. I can only turn the screw about a quarter to a half turn resulting in a limited range of pressure that I can use with my CO2 tank. I can only go between about 3 and 7 PSI. It takes about a week and a half to fully carbonate a 5-gallon keg at 7 PSI (without shaking it up or turning it upside down) and that's a little bit too long. Any ideas as to what's going on here? The screw just will not go any further than where it is currently and I've already stripped it slightly trying to use brute force. I've taken the regulator off the tank and tried turning it that way but it made no difference. I keep my tank and regulator in the fridge as well. Could that be causing it? Is the regulator too cold or perhaps frozen? Or is the regulator just broken?

Appreciate any insight on this. It has me baffled.

Ok, so I have a 3500 watt at 240v water heater element for my RIMS. The problem is I cannot find a copper fitting to screw this into. I have been told that the water heaters do not use pipe threads but all of the pictures and tutorials for building a RIMS have shown the elements screwing into a 1" female copper fitting. What fitting do I need?

Posted: by n0rmann (3 hours ago)

On vacation, Jeff visited Pottsville, Pennsylvania, home of Yuengling, America's oldest Brewery. We went on the brewery tour and also interviewed Dick Yuengling - who happened to be hanging out in the gift shop.

Hi All,

This is my first post on the board. I have been lurking for a while (sorry) to try to learn something. Lots of great information to be had here.

One thing that would be interesting to me is a resource that gives basic recipe information for the various styles that includes grain types and percentage, hops and IBU range, etc. I have seen a number of style guides online, but none really cover this. The ones I have seen focus on the final product. Does anyone know if a resource like that exists? I want to do more basic brews until I hone my skills. That way, I won't just jump right into making complex beers that turn out crappy. I can make simplistic crappy beers.

Thanks,
Wumsboy